Which jumper cables

/ Which jumper cables #61  
Short, light cables in the car/truck are better than long, heavy cables in the garage.

Bruce
I think Confucius said the same.
 
/ Which jumper cables #63  
One thing I appreciate about AGM batteries is the lack of corrosion on the terminals and lack of corrosion onto battery cable ends, auto body parts, etc. I also like to buy batteries with both the side and top posts when installing in a side post application. It sure makes charging and jumping easier.
 
/ Which jumper cables #64  
I have a set of 50+ year old copper cables, probably as good as day they were made ( bought as top quality at the time) always stored in protective bag in utility storage of my prime vehicle..... As of late, last 10-15 years I find a "jump box" more to my liking and useage as it seems the vechicle the needs a jump is always in a walk up only situation ....
 
/ Which jumper cables #65  
One thing I appreciate about AGM batteries is the lack of corrosion on the terminals and lack of corrosion onto battery cable ends, auto body parts, etc. I also like to buy batteries with both the side and top posts when installing in a side post application. It sure makes charging and jumping easier.
Love my AGM also ..... But the best thing for battery life on any battery is to keep terminal scrupulous clean and use antioxidation "chemicals" to prevent corrosion....

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/ Which jumper cables #66  
I need a new set of jumper cables. I'd like for them to be satisfactory for my MF 1726E as well as automobiles. I will get "heavy duty" ones, as I've had experiences where lighter cables did not do the job when needed.

As I understand, 4-gauge is considered "heavy duty", but 1-gauge is even better for "heavy-duty" equipment. I'm not sure what is meant by "heavy-duty equipment". Do you think that 4-gauge will be satisfactory in all situations for my tractor and automobiles? Or should I go with 1-gauge to be safe?
I would buy them based on the needs of your other vehicles as the garden tractor likely has the least cca needed.
 
/ Which jumper cables #67  
Talking about lose of voltage with thin cables, I recently tried to start my CK-30 Kioti using a brand new battery sitting on ground and the "standard" thin jumpers in a bag you stick in back of ur car. The motor barely grunted. Installed the battery and the motor turned over rapidly.
 
/ Which jumper cables #68  
I bought a VTOMAN hand held jumpers you hold in your hand connect cables and jump vehicle or tractor works great Need to keep them charged up and ready to go and i do that inside where it is warmer, I had issues with my Gmc diesel truck 6.5 v8 and it started it without a problem in winter, found out one of the new batteries i bought from Orileys was not holding a charge called the manager and he said bring them both back and he will replace them, Did that and all is good now They make different brands of these jumpers but the VTOMAN i bought works great !
 
/ Which jumper cables #69  
Make your own cables from welding lead and buy the highest amp rated clamps you can find. I see 1200’s but need to do a search.
I’ve got to make some heavier jumper cables, I’m trying to decide how many 0’s- gauge I want on the cables and the biggest clamps I can find.
2 gauge in my opinion is small, they work but if you to run into medium size and bigger tractor and diesel truck and it’s cold you have to put two sets of cables, that’s a pain in the a$$.
Smaller cables will start smaller diesel and gasoline tractors-vehicles.
Heavy cables will start heavier stuff or smaller stuff.
My cables are probably 4 gauge and work to a point but if I have to bleed the injectors on my older long 610 60 horse from my 2002 dodge diesel 3500 it takes a lot of cranking and turns into a PIA.
Plan for what you’re going to run into not what you have.
 
/ Which jumper cables #70  
I sold a set of 2 gauge cables on Facebook marketplace recently for $10, took weeks to sell and they were in a Milwaukee saw case. My son in law said everyone is just going to jump packs.
 
/ Which jumper cables #71  
Over the years I have
The reason for larger wire is to reduce voltage drop with distance. The length of the cables needs to be considered as well. The voltage drop in the cable is the product of the resistance of the cable multiplied by the current flowing at that time. Any resistance due to corrosion at the battery terminals or the wires attaching the clamp will also drop voltage. The condition of the batteries themselves can also limit current flow. This is really not a simple question but the generic answer would be bigger is generally better. Of course you can always build your own cables out of even bigger wire. Generally welding cable is more flexible than regular stranded cable.
Over the years, I have bought and built a number of sets of jumper cables. I agree with Roadworthy’s post. One caution if you decide to build your own, be sure the insulation on the wire you select is oil/gas/diesel/grease resistant. The first set I ever build (probably over 40 years ago) I failed to do this and the insulation started to fail in a rather short time period. Also as you may purchase 1 length of cable, 40’ of cable will produce basically 20’ of jumper cable, get some large heat shrink sleeves and place them along the cables to assist with keeping them together and reduce tangling.
 
/ Which jumper cables #72  
I used this comany for all my solar projects and have bought jumper cables from them.
High quality and fast shipping. They will build them how you want them. The twin cable they use has TPE insulation which resist abrasion and oil.

Finer 100% copper stranding so the cable remains flexible.
Not only does the finer wires allow more flexibility, it allows higher amperage due to electron flow only along the outer surface of each wire and the finer wires have more surface area than heavier wires for the same gauge.
 
/ Which jumper cables #73  
I need a new set of jumper cables. I'd like for them to be satisfactory for my MF 1726E as well as automobiles. I will get "heavy duty" ones, as I've had experiences where lighter cables did not do the job when needed.

As I understand, 4-gauge is considered "heavy duty", but 1-gauge is even better for "heavy-duty" equipment. I'm not sure what is meant by "heavy-duty equipment". Do you think that 4-gauge will be satisfactory in all situations for my tractor and automobiles? Or should I go with 1-gauge to be safe?
I haven't used jumper cables in years. I find that it is easier to use a jump pack.
https://www.amazon.com/YUSMAN-Start...ords=car+jump+pack&qid=1735565881&sr=8-9&th=1
 
/ Which jumper cables #74  
You do not need any larger than 2 gage cables. Four gage would do for most cases but 2 is better if you want "heavy duty." Length is an issue most of the times I have needed jumper cables and you need to evaluate what length you need. I would not consider less than 8 ft length and 12ft will be handy. I would not go longer than 12ft because of the voltage drop at high current levels in longer cables. Stay away from aluminum cable which is only a cost advantage and much of that is questionable with the seller being the beneficiary, not you. Whoever above suggested welder cable is right on. If you make up your own cables he is exactly correct that welder cable is a lot more flexible and is made to expect rough use. The clamps should not be taken for granted. Get heavier ones and pay attention to how they connect with the wires.
If you do multiple sets of cables, 12’ for 1 see is fine and smaller gauge wire is fine (4) also. Personally, 20’ is what I consider a minimum length.
Evaluate your potential needs when using. Will you always be able to pull along side the vehicle that needs s jump? Or will there be the potential to need to pull up behind say your tractor with an implement attached to it?
 
/ Which jumper cables #75  
I need a new set of jumper cables. I'd like for them to be satisfactory for my MF 1726E as well as automobiles. I will get "heavy duty" ones, as I've had experiences where lighter cables did not do the job when needed.

As I understand, 4-gauge is considered "heavy duty", but 1-gauge is even better for "heavy-duty" equipment. I'm not sure what is meant by "heavy-duty equipment". Do you think that 4-gauge will be satisfactory in all situations for my tractor and automobiles? Or should I go with 1-gauge to be safe?
I'm not using jumpers cables anymore. 2 years ago, I switch to Gooloo jump starter, and i won't go back. You can chek it at gooloo.com
 
/ Which jumper cables #76  
Jumpers are typically a one time purchase lasting a lifetime.

I already know individuals on their second or third jump pack...

Guess it depends on how much convince is worth?
 
/ Which jumper cables #77  
A local welding shop gave me enough used welding cable to make a great set. I did a simple ohm test to make sure they were not broken. Rural King clamps and good for the past 10 years or so.
 
/ Which jumper cables #78  
I need a new set of jumper cables. I'd like for them to be satisfactory for my MF 1726E as well as automobiles. I will get "heavy duty" ones, as I've had experiences where lighter cables did not do the job when needed.

As I understand, 4-gauge is considered "heavy duty", but 1-gauge is even better for "heavy-duty" equipment. I'm not sure what is meant by "heavy-duty equipment". Do you think that 4-gauge will be satisfactory in all situations for my tractor and automobiles? Or should I go with 1-gauge to be safe?
POADTOR Heavy Duty Jumper Cables for Car Battery, 0 Gauge 30 Feet 1000AMP, Automotive Booster Cables for Jump Starting Dead or Weak Batteries, Suitable for 8L Gas & 6L Diesel, Carrying Bag Included Amazon.com
 
/ Which jumper cables #79  
In picture looks like comes with wire ends. Attaching to copper wire I'd be sure about 3/4" or so insulation stripped off, wire & connectors clean, flux, solder (60/40) "tin" both then solder together. Hammer clamp ends over wire. You want as low resistance, good tight connection possible.
I'd use some dielectric grease, then screwed onto clamp tightly.
The lower the resistance, the better the connection, the more current it can carry.
Why dielectric?
 
/ Which jumper cables #80  
POADTOR Heavy Duty Jumper Cables for Car Battery, 0 Gauge 30 Feet 1000AMP, Automotive Booster Cables for Jump Starting Dead or Weak Batteries, Suitable for 8L Gas & 6L Diesel, Carrying Bag Included Amazon.com
Sounded like a good deal until;
  • SUPERIOR CONDUCTIVITY: These jumper cables are made of high-conductivity copper-clad aluminum (CCA) wire, providing optimal power transfer for quick vehicle starts. The double-grip design on the 30-foot jumper cables ensures a firm connection to both top and side post batteries
  • SAFETY & DURABILITY: The cables are protected by an extra-thick PVC sheath, providing drop and insulation protection, ensuring your safety during the jump-start process. The heavy-duty jumper cables feature 100% copper clamp designs, further enhancing durability and ensuring long-lasting performance
 

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