Where to Put Rear Hydraulics Levers

[gordon]

Yes the sv-directional should work for what you want. Now you need to supply the hydraulic supply and return to and from the valve body.

My only question is how fine of control you will have of the cylinders. Guess you could use flow limiters if the cylinder moved to fast, even though you just bumped the switch for a second.

As far as a hydraulic supply point do you have the same option that Bird has on his tractor. Then all you would need is two hoses from that connection, one supply and one return. Just have to double check that the flow isn't too much through the valve, they can overheat. As far as power for the switches you could tie into your aux light circuit or run a new circuit from the fuse panel.

gordon

 

[hayden]

I just borrowed the 3710 'cause my BH is in Vermont. I though you were the guy looking to upgrade? I must admit that the 3710 was kind of nice .....

Anyway, back to hydraulics. I talked to Mark at V&M. Very helpful as everyone has said. I actually had to rush him off the phone to take a call from the all important (my wife).

They have a bunch of products but I just focused on those applicable to this thread. Those product fall into two categories: diverters, and directional valves. There are probably lots of other terms for these things, but I'll use these terms.

A diverter is used IN CONJUNCTION with an existing valve like a loader valve or aux valve. Where your existing valve controls one cylinder, when you add the diverter valve you can "divert" the control using the existing valve to one or more additional cylinders. Others have explained this better, but to summarize with an example, you could use the diverter to allow your loader lift control to also control your Top and Tilt cylinders. Normally the joy stick up/down would control loader lift, but if you press and hold down a button, that same up/down on the joy stick will instead control the Top cylinder, or with the press and holding of another button it would control the Tilt Cylinder. If you already have at least one aux control valve, you could use the diverter to allow that control valve to operate several cylinders with the desired cylinder selected by the press of a button. The important point is that cylinder movement and speed is still controlled by the existing manual valve, and the cylinder speed can be feathered to move slow or fast or anywhere in between.

A directional valve is having a whole other control valve completely independent of any existing valves. It's just like adding one or two valves to control top and tilt. The important difference between the electric valve and a manual valve is that the electric valves are either completely on or completely off. There is no in-between setting and hence no speed control. To operate a top cylinder, you just press the rocker button and let go to stop. Press the button the other way and the cylinder moves in the opposite direction. This is great provided you don't need any variable speed control. Restrictors can be added to the valve to limit flow and control speed, but you just get one fixed speed setting. You can't "feather " the speed like you do on your loader.

I think all this is what Gordon and others have been telling us all along, but I think I understand it now.

Given this, I'm personally going to pass on this for my TnT control. Without the flow restrictors, I think there will be poor control over fine adjustments of the TnT (Mark at V&M thought so too). With restrictors the circuits would only be usable for TnT and I'd like to be able to use them for other things too.

Oh well, back to trying to find a good place for the big manual valve.

 

[gordon]

Hayden, you are going to have the tnt hooked up all the time right? If so then install flow restrictors on those ports and leave another one or two circiuts open for other options. Thus you would have either a three for four spool valve setup. Just something to think about.

When I bought my L I got a single remote, had to at least get one for the hydraulic top link off the old L. But my thinking was this. A cleaner install, guess I should have sprung for the extra two remotes---not. Why, because for the price of two more remotes I could get four electric ones! Still a clean install without hoses everywhere. Less hoses and fittings, less chance for leaks down the road.

But I also want a freedom hitch, monster tires, a canopy and most of all my stereo! So in the next couple of years I should be up to speed--maybe.

Gordon

 

[hayden]

You've got a point. My envisioned uses for the outlets beyond TnT are a wood splitter and possibly a power feed for the chipper. Both those would be full-on devices.

If I already had a single aux valve like on your L, I would definitly go with the diverter approach. Unfortunately all I have is the loader control and I can't see how to steer (left hand), sit side saddle looking backwards for snow blowing, box blading, or grading, and control the TnT with the loader valve.

I don't see any really good solution in my case.

 

[hayden]

I finally settled on a placement for my TnT controls. After investigating the electric operated controls, I decided to stay with the manual valves and placed them between the ROPS bar and seat. They are on an angle to improve the position of the control handles (it actually came out quite well from what I can tell so far despite no real experience using them yet). The hoses going to the cylinders all have quick disconnects and the couplers are attached directly to the valve body. This eliminates 4 hoses and a mounting block of some sort that would otherwise be required if the couplers were mounted separately from the valve body. The valve positioning results in the couplers pointing out the back of the tractor and down at an angle to shed water. The whole assembly is on the inside of the ROPS bar so hopefully it will be reasonably protected from attacking branches while bushwacking. The valve control handles are still susceptable, but I can't see any way to improve it sort of using electric valves or having pre-configured slots like on the grand L's.

The actual attachment to the ROPS is using straight bars that I got at the local HW store. I cut them to length and welded them to the ROPS bar. This position for the valve required moving my flasher light from the fender mount holes on the inboard side of the ROPS bar to the outboard side using mounting brackets. The 2710/2910 can be built up either way and my dealer happened to go the fender mount route. I visited the guy who assembles the machines and as suspected he had a box of the brackets and gladly gave me two along with the plastic plugs to fill the fender holes. The flashers will be more vulnerable to branch attacks, but what else is a tractor nut to do?

So far so good, but I still have to connect the hoses and figure out how to tap into the return line to the tank.

Photos attached in collage format inspired by Harv,

Peter

 

[RobertN]

1. Kubota B8200hst
2. Installed 2 spool valve. I originally wanted three, and bought the MONSTER valve from Northern(Prince), but went with a compact 2-spool because of the size, and no real need for the 3rd spool.
3. I put mine on the right side fender. I was fortunate that the bolt holes lined up with the holes in the fender from the factory grab handle I removed. I get on the tractor from the left, since the loader controls somewhat block the right side anyways. So, I didn't mind removing the grab handle. The placement put the valve in just the right spot for access to the levers while driving.
4. Sorry, no digital camera, or pictures. For the longest time, I had copied a picture of Von's old B8200, and told people "mine's just like that" /w3tcompact/icons/smile.gif
5. I would have put TnT on the tractor the day I got it! It has been so useful since installation!

RobertN in Shingle Springs Calif

 

[Reg]

I know this is an old thread, but I'm trying to read ALL the T 'n T threads before I die (-:
For protection of the operator (self) from potential hose or fitting leaks (or bursts) I have been thinking about the cover sleeve that is used around welding cables to keep the insulation from getting abraded away. I think they're often made of leather, though synthetics are probably cheaper. I'd guess 10, 15, 20ft lengths would be commonly available.
Anyway, just an idea

 

[Reg]

I know this is an old thread, but I'm trying to read ALL the T 'n T threads before I die (-:
For protection of the operator (self) from potential hose or fitting leaks (or bursts) I have been thinking about the cover sleeve that is used around welding cables to keep the insulation from getting abraded away. I think they're often made of leather, though synthetics are probably cheaper. I'd guess 10, 15, 20ft lengths would be commonly available.
Anyway, just an idea