Where to Put Rear Hydraulics Levers

[Anonymous Poster]

I was looking at your posting. If any of you want to call me use 1-800-648-6507. We are out of Sioux Falls,SD. I will be glad to send out information or answer your questions. These valves will work on any tractor(with an existing hydraulic system). We are on central time,8am to 5pm. We have been manufacturing electro-hydraulic valves since 1989. There are some pictures of our valves and mounted control handles on our web site. It is vandminc.com. You can also e-mail me at hydinfo@vandminc.com

 

[Leef]

Hayden,

I'm exactly where you are in this T&T planning. I've read several of the longest threads and have it sort of figured out using conventional valving, but Rowski's idea really seems to make sense for the reasons you just stated, but also b/c of safety. I'd like my wife and children to be able to use this tractor for simple tasks and the idea of scalding hot hoses near our arms worries me. I also plan to work in the woods a fair amount which could cause catching on tree limbs.

So I'm following this V&M idea closely with one other "twist": Further into the future, I plan to buy a Curtis blade for my FEL arms. I have a FEL quick attach, so I'd remove the bucket and hook up to the blade. This will also require some hydraulic attachments for left/right angling of the blade. I've followed Ron Hall's diagrams ( see "let it snow" and Bird's T&T" threads ) to accomplish all of this, but now the idea of electrical solenoids sends me back to the drawing board. Any advice from MChalkey or RonHall or Rowski will be extremely appreciated.

Leef

 

[Bird]

I like the cylinders, valve, and valve levers better on LarryT's set up than my own, although I would prefer using the optional rear hydraulic outlet (as I did) instead of the power beyond port off the loader vavle (as LarryT's dealer did).

Bird

 

[Leef]

Hayden,

I still think the electric solenoids will give fine tuning ability. They're just selectors aren't they? Throw the switch and now your FEL joystick will operate the T&T with the same fine adjustments that your loader has. You just can't operate both at the same time. I'm probably missing something, but that's how I see it working in the end. Your ideas are most in line with my own. What do you think?

Leef

 

[Leef]

Bird,

I agree with you. I would prefer to use the rear aux. hydraulic block also. What about LarryT's arrangement do you like better then? I read the entire thread from December, but can't look at the pictures b/c they're too old.

Now however I'm considering using the electric solenoid idea to keep hoses and bulky spool valves away from the seat. Isn't that funny, just when I get it figured out along comes a different mousetrap.

The other twist is my future hopes for a Curtis blade. I can't afford everything now, but I would like to plan and be prepared.

Thanks for your help and willingness to share.

Leef

 

[Bird]

Leef, I'm sure mine "works" as well as LarryT's, but I had to shorten the top link cylinder, then had to make a "bracket?" to lengthen the side link cylinder and get the angle right, and the levers on my valve are more open and stick out to the right a bit - not really a problem on my property, but could get caught on limbs in brush. In other words, I think he just has a neater, cleaner set up.

Bird

 

[hayden]

OK, maybe I've made it to first grade now with these explainations, which suggest it works differently that I thought.

I understand the selector switch picks which cylinder to control. The part I'm not totally clear on is whether when you go to actuate the selected cylinder, it's a binary full-on or full-off switch, or if it's a graduated control that lets to press lightly and move the cylinder slowly, or press harder and move the cylinder faster, just like the gradations you have with the loader or other manual valve control.

This approach is sounding more and more interesting, except I've got this $200 manual valve in my garage.

 

[glennmac]

This is a quote from the V&M site:

<font color=blue>A control box with rocker switches controls the SV Directional. This will allow the operator to move the switch forward to extend the cylinder or move the switch backward to retract. These switches are available in momentary and held styles. The switches are water and dust proof. They are rated at 100,000 cycles-minimum-for long life in or out of the cab.</font color=blue>

Since Mark of V&M is monitoring this thread and has offered to help, I hope one of us with some hydraulics background could take the time to talk to him to figure out a design for us.

As to operating angle on a Curtis blade, I thought you could do that with the 4 position loader valve on a Kubota. No additional valves necessary.

 

[hayden]

Glenn,

I read through the V&M site several times and I'm interpreting the SV-directional the same way you are. It does sound like it will work. The other SV valve is what they call a multiplier, and it only works to fan-out an existing control valve to operate more than one cylinder. They key is that you still need to have at least one valve to control oil flow. The multiplier lets you direct that flow to the cylinder of your choice.

We are both (I think) trying to control the TnT without using the loader valve, so the electric V&M gadget must act as a valve by itself. I think that's what the SV directional is.

I'll try to call Mark tomorrow to confirm. I'm liking this more and more.

Peter

 

[glennmac]

Peter, if I were to spend the money on this, I suppose I ideally would like three rear outlets (top, tilt, extra) controlled by something other than the loader joystick.

The way this thread has developed, it has now piqued my interest as to whether I can get that all installed on a 2910 with only the switch panel being mounted and visible on the right fender.

Of course, you can get a factory installed 3 spool set-up on that 3710 you are apparently dreaming about. /w3tcompact/icons/wink.gif