Where to Put Rear Hydraulics Levers

[RAllen]

Glen
As you may remember, I too have a 2910. I have tip, no tilt R or L. My valve is in the same place as Bird's and exposed the same way on the right fender just behind the arm rest.

From a control perspective, this is a good position. My one concern is the valve body gets warm sometimes HOT!!/w3tcompact/icons/shocked.gif and my right elbow keeps getting a little too close. No burns yet but......./w3tcompact/icons/tongue.gif

As mentioned earlier, I wish I had some form of guard. Will look into it.

Rick /w3tcompact/icons/laugh.gif/w3tcompact/icons/laugh.gif

 

[glennmac]

I know that pictures of lever placement have been posted in the various T&T threads, but there are so many of those threads, and some of them are so very long, it is hard to plow through them all just to find info on the placement issue. I think consolidating pictures in one thread like this is helpful.

It's obvious there is a bulk issue. I was hoping there was a way to squeeze all the hardware under the covers somehow. Guess not.

It's interesting that some of the levers seem to be made to operate forward and back (relative to the tractor) while others seem to work side to side. Anyone have any comments on the the operational usefulness of these two approaches.

Halsey, do you find the levers being up front to be inconvenient? Seems that many people go for the right fender area because that is compatible with turning around to look at the implement.

GlueGuy, does Gearmore offer a 1 and 3 valve setup? Would they operate out of the same housing that your 2 valve unit does?

Shielding against heat/leaks seems to be another issue. It looks as though the Gearmore housing provides the best shielding of the pictures so far.

I hope there are some more examples out there.

 

[HalseyGreen]

Glennmac - if you know the JD790, there isn't much room for anyting anywhere. I tried about everywhere on the right and left side, on the right side, if located on the rear fender or ROPS, the valves got in the way of my elbow when using the dscv joystick or 3 point controls or the hoses would have hung out beyond the tires. I also played with mounting the valves behind the seat, but getting to the handles would have been a real pain. I haven't found having the valves up front a real pain when doing fine box blade work but I don't tend to do much fine work. Since I'm thinking about a grapple for the bucket, the front mount seamed a logical compromise location. If I would have seen the Gearmore mount off the ROPS, I probably would have gone that route.

 

[GlueGuy]

The Gearmore setup is offered in 2 or 3 spool versions (take a look at the "top view" and you will see the extra space).

I also think it would be a good idea to put some sort of safety sleave around the hoses in case one gets ruptured (sort of like Kubota uses on the FEL).

So now you guys have created two new projects for me: (1) adding the safety sleave, and (2) adding QD's to the T&T. /w3tcompact/icons/wink.gif

The GlueGuy

 

[Rowski]

<font color=blue>It's obvious there is a bulk issue. I was hoping there was a way to squeeze all the hardware under the covers somehow. Guess not.</font color=blue>
<font color=blue>Shielding against heat/leaks seems to be another issue. It looks as though the Gearmore housing provides the best shielding of the pictures so far.</font color=blue>

If bulk and heat is an issue, the V&M multipliers will slove that. All you got mounted on your fender (or what ever you mount it to) is a few rocker or toggle switches. I may seem like a bit more money than a standard spool valve but you only have to run two hoses. An "in"hose (from PB port) and an "out" (return)to the valve assembly. Your quick disconnects screw directly into the vale assembly (or very short peices of hose),The valve assembly is on the back of the tractor. Then the wires that run into the cab, which is one for each circuit (a t&t would have 2 wires).

Derek

 

[DDT]

GregErceg
If you do a search for HYD TOP LINK you will find several treads and pics aswell.
DDT

 

[glennmac]

Derek,

This is fascinating, but given my total ignorance of hydraulics, I'm not sure I grasp it all.

My interest in rear hydraulics is for a toplink. I dont care for all this hardware and hose bulk on the tractor fenders, however. As I read this VM multiplier stuff, I could control the hydraulic toplink with an electric rocker switch mounted on the fender (or anywhere else), or, like Scott in your thread, control the cylinder with the loader joystick.

Does that mean the hardware and hoses can be stuffed underneath and in back of the tractor?

 

[Rowski]

<font color=blue>Does that mean the hardware and hoses can be stuffed underneath and in back of the tractor? </font color=blue>

Yes.

I found the info that I got from V&M. My sheet feed scanner at work isn't scanning the glossy paper well. I will scan it on my flat bed scanner at home and post tomorrow. I'm at work today. My problem is with my cab. I don't have any room for a bulky "harness" of hoses and a bulky spool valve. That's why I like the V&M setup.



Derek

 

[glennmac]

Derek, please do post it if you can. I am interested in this possibility and have gotten one of my dealers interested, too. This could be really elegant.

 

[jdkid]

Hi ya
I can't put my finger on it but in NZ ya are not ment to have hrydo hoses uncovered in cabs ,i don't know about covered or deflected hoses but it would pay to do something it's not only ya eyes i have read (maybe be wrong tho) if oil gets in to ya skin ya got big probs kinda like when ya drop hot metal off the bench ya always go to grab it same with a leek in a hose frist thing is to cover it with ya hand and i don't kown many hands that stand up to 2000 psi
catch ya
JD Kid