Wheel weights

   / Wheel weights #1  

crazyal

Super Member
Joined
Dec 12, 2003
Messages
7,748
Location
Northern Vermont
Tractor
Kubota, Case, Deere
Anyone ever think about making wheel weights out of sheet metal and cement? I was thinking that if I made two circles out of 1/8" plate. By drilling holes that are the same as the wheel where the weights bolt on simple threaded rod could be used to bolt the 1/8" plate to the wheel and it could extend into the area to be filled with cement to reinforce the cement. I could cut up an old 55 gallon drum to make the outside of the form.

To fit my wheels with some clearance around the outside the weight would need to be 10" thick, half would be a diameter of 20" while the other half would be 14". If I leave an 8" hole in the center I can get to the lug nuts.

If I remember correctly an 80 lb bag of cement is .6 cubit feet. If I've done my math right each weight would be 3.34 cubit feet and when filled would weigh approx 400+ lbs.

Well, do my numbers add up?

This is not a great image but it's close. The blue lines would be the threaded rod. The lightest orange would be the 55 gallon drum shrunk down to 20" and 14". The medium orange would be the the 1/8" plate while the dark orange would be the inner 8" hole to access the lug nuts.
weight1.jpg
 
   / Wheel weights #2  
I tried to make concrete weights and got awful results. On two different pairs. Not saying you can't do it. But it's harder than it looks.
 
   / Wheel weights
  • Thread Starter
#3  
I got home where I have access to a real calculator and I think the one I was using squared after multiplying the radius and pi so I think my volumes are off by quite a bit.
 
   / Wheel weights #4  
I'm pretty sure it can be done.:thumbdown:

But is a bad idea, everything will be out of balance and stick out too far. :2cents:
 
   / Wheel weights #5  
:thumbdown:

But is a bad idea, everything will be out of balance... :2cents:
:confused::confused2::confused::confused2::confused::confused2::confused::confused2::confused::confused2::confused:

I think you should give some details on that particular opinion. What exactly will be out of balance and what will undo said balance?

Or all those companies for all those years have been "putting tractors out of balance" by installing wheel weights and loading tires?

I for one think it can be done and I will post some pics later how I did it. Concrete is a light material unless you have lots of space like when making a ballast for the 3ph. I used gym weights but I would be better off having plate custom cut-to-fit. that is too much $$$
 
   / Wheel weights #6  
:confused::confused2::confused::confused2::confused::confused2::confused::confused2::confused::confused2::confused:

I think you should give some details on that particular opinion. What exactly will be out of balance and what will undo said balance?

Or all those companies for all those years have been "putting tractors out of balance" by installing wheel weights and loading tires?

I for one think it can be done and I will post some pics later how I did it. Concrete is a light material unless you have lots of space like when making a ballast for the 3ph. I used gym weights but I would be better off having plate custom cut-to-fit. that is too much $$$

Wheel weights themselves are not a bad idea, nor do they unbalance the wheels.
Home made Cement wheel weights will be nearly impossible to center, balance and keep straight. What ever the weight 200 / 400 pounds? not in balance bolted to the wheels or axle in not good for the the tractor. 1/8" Steel plate is far to thin and will soon bend or rip out.

Big difference between Static weight (ballast box) and a rotating weight.

Loaded or filled tires is another whole story and he didn't ask about that.
 
   / Wheel weights #7  
Probably 30 year ago, my Dad got a hold of a couple of lead ingots. He found a mold that fit perfect in his wheels. Made a little blast furnace and commenced to foundry a couple of lead wheel weights. I don't remember how much they weighed but I know the current owner of the tractor and weights still has them in use today.

On a different note, I'm a fan of "RimGuard". I have it in both tractors and my zero turn now. It' weights 11 1/2- 12 lbs per gal. and won't corrode your wheels cuz it's beet juice. In my bigger tractor it added over 700lbs of weight. U can't get that with concrete weights. Not enough volume.
 
   / Wheel weights #9  
Wheel weights themselves are not a bad idea, nor do they unbalance the wheels.
Home made Cement wheel weights will be nearly impossible to center, balance and keep straight. What ever the weight 200 / 400 pounds? not in balance bolted to the wheels or axle in not good for the the tractor. 1/8" Steel plate is far to thin and will soon bend or rip out.

Big difference between Static weight (ballast box) and a rotating weight.

Loaded or filled tires is another whole story and he didn't ask about that.

I dont think it would be an issue...City here has a fairly new CAT Challenger with a boom ditch mower and the LH wheel has a "Factory" Cement wheel weight which pretty much fills the rim 98%...
 
   / Wheel weights #10  
I dont think it would be an issue...City here has a fairly new CAT Challenger with a boom ditch mower and the LH wheel has a "Factory" Cement wheel weight which pretty much fills the rim 98%...
" "Factory" Cement wheel weight" End of story.
 
   / Wheel weights #11  
Wheel weights themselves are not a bad idea, nor do they unbalance the wheels.
Home made Cement wheel weights will be nearly impossible to center, balance and keep straight. What ever the weight 200 / 400 pounds? not in balance bolted to the wheels or axle in not good for the the tractor. 1/8" Steel plate is far to thin and will soon bend or rip out.

Big difference between Static weight (ballast box) and a rotating weight.

Loaded or filled tires is another whole story and he didn't ask about that.

I don't know if it matters all that much when you are traveling 1-6mph on a rough dirt surface. I understand the need for a balanced tire on a vehicle traveling 60mph, but I just don't think it would be an issue with a tractor. I do agree that the 1/8 steel plate would be too thin.
 
   / Wheel weights #12  
Here is a picture of what I made. It bolts up to the hub wit three of the lug bolts. The 1" rod in the center is welded into 1/4 plate and there are some other not so minor details that I'm lazy to type up now.
It has #115 of gym weights per side at the moment but eventually I would like to have #200 per side but I have to have stuff custom cut for that.

It is probably out of balance but I wouldn't know as I'm off the hinge.:drink:
 

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   / Wheel weights #13  
I don't know if it matters all that much when you are traveling 1-6mph on a rough dirt surface. I understand the need for a balanced tire on a vehicle traveling 60mph, but I just don't think it would be an issue with a tractor. I do agree that the 1/8 steel plate would be too thin.

Most tractors will run a little faster than 6 MPH. The man said they would be 10" deep. Even at 6 MPH and "Rough dirt", maybe a few ruts & rocks. Hanging out 10" even 100 pounds over time is going to ruin something.

Your weights are nice and close in, that makes a big difference.

Welding a hunk of barrel to a flat plate even 1/4, it is going to warp. Even if pre-drilled and centered that weight is going to hang at an angle.

You being a real "Authority", please tell me why it is a GOOD Idea.
 
   / Wheel weights #14  
I'm by no means any kind of an "authority" on this and was farthest from my intention to ruffle feathers over this subject. I was hoping you would give a definite reason why this could be a source of trouble, so myself and others can avoid it. Never read before that they can cause trouble.

I personally prefer the wheel weights because they make repair to the tires easier. No fluid leaking out of a wheel that weighs 200-400 lbs. and it might need to be transported somewhere. That is all.
 
   / Wheel weights #15  
I'm by no means any kind of an "authority" on this and was farthest from my intention to ruffle feathers over this subject. I was hoping you would give a definite reason why this could be a source of trouble, so myself and others can avoid it. Never read before that they can cause trouble.

I personally prefer the wheel weights because they make repair to the tires easier. No fluid leaking out of a wheel that weighs 200-400 lbs. and it might need to be transported somewhere. That is all.

I said early on that there is nothing wrong with wheel weights. The Design was and is wrong. Your weights are a whole different story and balance is not as critical near the axle flange as weight hanging out 10". It is called "leverage", picture in your mind your weights hanging out there 10".

Tractors even older than I am have run wheel weights since day one and are still going strong. I've been told that's a few weeks older than dirt. :laughing::thumbsup: There is a big difference between Factory Cement weights than a home grown "I think will work."
 
   / Wheel weights #16  
Anyone ever think about making wheel weights out of sheet metal and cement? I was thinking that if I made two circles out of 1/8" plate. By drilling holes that are the same as the wheel where the weights bolt on simple threaded rod could be used to bolt the 1/8" plate to the wheel and it could extend into the area to be filled with cement to reinforce the cement. I could cut up an old 55 gallon drum to make the outside of the form.

Go for it. Just don't use hardware store all thread, step up for some heavy grade stud type stregnth. I'd try to keep the weight "inboard" as possible.
Some of the replys question about using a used drum and 1/8" metal, --- it's only the form until the concrete hardens. I don't see why the balance would be far enough off with the weight so close to the rotational center of the wheel to mater either.
It'll be a bear to mount them, are your tires filled and still need more weight?
Use the highest PSI concrete you can find.
 
   / Wheel weights #17  
I don't know if it matters all that much when you are traveling 1-6mph on a rough dirt surface. I understand the need for a balanced tire on a vehicle traveling 60mph, but I just don't think it would be an issue with a tractor. I do agree that the 1/8 steel plate would be too thin.

I would not be too sure about it not being an issue. I remember vividly the scare I got one day driving a rather fast tractor down a gravel road. The fluid in the tires began to slosh over rather than slide along as the tire rotated. They were doing this at different rates and I could barely hold the tractor on the road.:shocked::eek: I managed to gain control and I'm here to relate the story. You can bet I did not ever drive that crazy tractor at 28mph again!!:2cents:
 
   / Wheel weights
  • Thread Starter
#18  
I don't think cement would give me enough weight. I don't want something that will stick out of the wheel. But I haven't ruled the idea out yet. I use to do lead abatement and we used steel grit to blast with. The stuff is very heavy. It came in 55 gallon drums that I think weighed a ton (or maybe more). As you would blast paint it would split the grit into smaller and smaller particles until it was too small to use. Getting my hands on some shouldn't be very hard.

I thinking I could make the case, fill it, and then weld a cover on it. I'm not too worried about balance, I don't drive fast enough and never on pavement for it to be an issue. Besides being close to the center balance is less of an issue.
 
   / Wheel weights #19  
I think the biggest issue is that it is a single piece. It will be very hard to handle in example when you need to fix the tire. Wheel weights are purposely made from segments that each can be handled by an average guy. I think it is doable but impractical for a reason stated above.
 
   / Wheel weights
  • Thread Starter
#20  
My plan is to use a piece of pipe on my FEL of my backhoe sticking off to one side and just slide it into position. I would each one to weigh in the 400 lb range so there's no way they would be able to be manhandled into place.
 

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