What brand bar do you run?

[CobyRupert]

If you use a progressive depth gauge tool to set the height of your depth gauges (a.k.a. "rakers"), there is far less need to keep all of your cutter lengths the same. These set the depth gauge height specifically for the tooth that follows them, which is as it should be. Both are used as shown in the second photo: they rest on top of one cutter, with the depth gauge poking up through the hole, and rest against the base of the cutter in front. View attachment 657179

Are you sure that in SOFT setting that the front of gauge rests there? I agree it does for HARD setting, but the (somewhat confusing) picture instructions that came with my gauge shows SOFT setting with front of gauge resting on the junction of the next link back from the tooth. This would make the raker pop up through the little notch in front of the gauge‘s opening like it does for the HARD setting.
Note how the distance is difference between HARD and SOFT.
I believe if the front of gauge is on tooth in both settings, you’d end up with same results for both settings, instead of a shorter SOFT wood raker.

...and if you file off too much raker, next time you use saw “HOLD ON!” (assuming saw can turn it).


Also: How do you guys know when it’s time to retire the bar?

 

[ericm979]

The Soft side makes a steeper angle and thus has you file the raker down farther.

 

[CobyRupert]

It (the whole gauge) only has a steeper angle when you slide the gauge back from the tooth in front of the raker you’re filing to the next link junction.
It’s why the S & H holes in gauge are at a different distance.
The result is raker will be lower.

 

[John_Mc]

Are you sure that in SOFT setting that the front of gauge rests there? I agree it does for HARD setting, but the (somewhat confusing) picture instructions that came with my gauge shows SOFT setting with front of gauge resting on the junction of the next link back from the tooth. This would make the raker pop up through the little notch in front of the gauge‘s opening like it does for the HARD setting.
Note how the distance is difference between HARD and SOFT.
I believe if the front of gauge is on tooth in both settings, you’d end up with same results for both settings, instead of a shorter SOFT wood raker.

...and if you file off too much raker, next time you use saw “HOLD ON!” (assuming saw can turn it).


Also: How do you guys know when it’s time to retire the bar?

That's not my own picture. It came from an advertisement for the gauge. I always sharpen on "Hard", since 95% or more of what I cut is hardwoods (unless I am doing storm clean-up). The Hard setting still works fine on softwood, though it's just a little bit slower than the soft setting would be. I really don's notice, since filing with the "Hard" still cuts faster through pine than cutting through Oak, hard maple or hickory.

If I cut a lot of pine, I'd probably file on the "Soft" setting, though I suspect that would make it a bit grabby in hardwood.

Any time I use this, I always put the raker up through one of those side notches. Since the raker is offset to the side, it just fits better that way. I just put the gauge over the raker, and let the front of the measuring tool fall wherever it falls. The slope is the important thing. Hard to see in the picture, but when I put the gauge on Soft on my chain with the raker poking up through the side notch, I have a little room behind the back of the tooth. When I use the "hard" side, there is less room.

 

[ericm979]

I use the 'hard' setting even though most of the wood I cut are hardwoods. But they're mostly easy cutting hardwoods like Madrone and Tan oak. Live oak is the only really hard hard wood species here and I like them so I rarely cut them.

 

[CobyRupert]

....The slope is the important thing. Hard to see in the picture, but when I put the gauge on Soft on my chain with the raker poking up through the side notch, I have a little room behind the back of the tooth. When I use the "hard" side, there is less room.

Exactly.
Not having the gauge pushed up to the tooth in front of it on Soft is the only way to change the angle that results in a shorter raker.

 

[nyone]

I have been useing forester platinum bars. There a bit harder than the Stihl bars and about the same price. Prior stihl bars grove would be worn out by the time one chain was finished. I have both forester platinum on my ms290 20" and 046 28".

 

[John_Mc]

I have been useing forester platinum bars. There a bit harder than the Stihl bars and about the same price. Prior stihl bars grove would be worn out by the time one chain was finished. I have both forester platinum on my ms290 20" and 046 28".

For a groove to be worn out by the time one chain is finished, you have a problem. Possible issues:

1. are either cutting in really dirty, abrasive conditions
2. there is a problem getting oil to your bar, or
3. You are regularly cutting with a dull chain (which is hard on bars, hard on the saw, and hard on the operator)

If your rails are wearing unevenly, there are other issues going on.