Welding Rods for beginners

[jack707]

In welding school the whole class use two rods 6010 7018 those are the two main rods he told us

 

[lilranch2001]

Any advice I give will be wrong according to the welding guru's, but I have 10# of 6013 and hate them. They don't start easy and the welds don't look very pretty.
The kind I always come back to for ease of use seems to be 1/8" 7014. It starts somewhat easy and easy to weld overhead or vertical. Supposedly it is a strong weld but for everything I stick together almost any kind of rod would work. Even though I have the 6013s I would still get more 7014s to burn.



I did buy two boxes of 7014 for a reason, probably because the welding book suggested it.
I know there are issues of light metal vs heavy hardened steel, clean steel vs rusty (I would always clean it up somewhat before hand)
and perhaps how easy some of these types are to start off.

That is my main gripe with it, even the best welders cannot make a pretty weld with it IMHO

 

[daugen]

the Lincoln basic stick course had three references:

(E6013)
is classified as a fill freeze, high speed, mild steel stick electrode. It is an all position electrode and a good choice for low amperage welding on sheet metal especially in applications where appearance is important. It’s an excellent choice for jobs involving irregular or short welds that require a change in position.


E6010)
is classified as a fast freeze, mild steel electrode. It is
ideal for welding on dirty,rusty, greasy, or painted
steel. It’s a first choice for pipe welding as well as
vertical up and overhead plate welding.
Whipping technique often used with this rod.

(E7018)
is classified as a mild steel, low hydrogen stick electrode
This electrode has an exceptionally clean puddle, square coating burnoff, easy all position handling and excellent wash in
characteristics. It’s a good choice for jobs that involve steels with poor weldability.




for sure this brought up more questions in my mind.
Are some rods better for vertical work vs horizontal? Do they run less?
And for sure some may work in ratty conditions but the end result may look ratty too.

 

[Shield Arc]

daugen here is some 6010, 6013, and 7018 welds.

 

[Stimw]

I have always kept 6013's around.
Back in the day I could weld with them with my eyes closed! (hung over!)
A 6013 will leave a beautiful bead and usually chip it's own slag.
7018 need to be kept DRY and some are DC only so make sure you match the rod to the machine.
And a hand full of coat hangers for O/A welding!

 

[k0ua]

Daugen, I believe you have the same Everlast PA160 that I have.

I would suggest this, 7014 is probably the easiest rod to run and get started with, as it almost runs itself. 7018 is my go to rod for structural strength and pretty beads when you get the hang of it. I like 7014 better for filling holes. I keep 6011 for making rougher beads on dirty metal. You don't really need to use any solvents on clean metal for stick welding, Some guys use solvents for TIG welding. Make sure they are fully evaporated before you strike the arc. Many solvents break down to make poison gasses in the arc. Never use brake cleaner, it will kill you.

As for 6013, I will still use it sometimes on sheet metal, but it is far from my favorite rod. In fact it is my least favorite rod. My favorite rod is 7018, but it is not the easiest rod to learn on and to use. It does make good strong welds, and they look great on the PA160 welder at around 125 amps with 1/8 rod. The PA160 has a great arc and will make beautiful welds.

So I would concentrate on using the 7014 first to get the welding fundamentals stuck in your head, and switch to 7018 when you get better at it. Keep some 6011 around too for less than clean metal or when you want to make a rough bead for traction or grip on something. It is a "farmers rod" that they keep for making repairs under less than optimal conditions. 6011 is the AC or DC version of 6010 which is DC only.
Keep in mind 7014 needs more current as it lays down a lot of metal in a hurry because there is metal powder in the flux, I like to keep them for tack up hole filling. Theoretically they are as strong as 7018, but in practice they don't seem to be.

In my opinion, none of the "common" rods beat a 7018 for fixing something. BUT it is not really a beginners rod. *

*Welding opinions are like you know what... we all have them...

 

[shadetree]

Looking at others welding and what they have welded is fine. You heard the one about old dogs... What really matters is what can you do...
You did say retirement. Well you remember what you used to be able... Oh well that doesn't help. I have been "teaching" myself for the past year. Yea over 70 years old. You just have to get in there and do it. Practice Practice Practice. Oh mower decks and learning don't work real well together. For me... I found 1/4 and 3/8 inch metal leave a little more to look at. 1/8 and thinner can vanish.

Until you get where you can keep the rod the proper distance from the metal (I can only assume that will come with enough practice) use 7014 as you can practically lay the rod to the metal and only have to think about speed and direction of movement. When you find what works for you keep at it until you can do it that way all the time.

Being older has some disadvantages. You believe everything you see on the internet. (there may be some Photoshop at play) Hurry up and Practice you aren't getting any younger --- ever. Learn to laugh at yourself. Practice can be fun. If you burn through get some heaver metal there has to be something left to be able to see what you did wrong. With enough practice you will get this - at least that is the hope of my teacher.

 

[k0ua]

Looking at others welding and what they have welded is fine. You heard the one about old dogs... What really matters is what can you do...
You did say retirement. Well you remember what you used to be able... Oh well that doesn't help. I have been "teaching" myself for the past year. Yea over 70 years old. You just have to get in there and do it. Practice Practice Practice. Oh mower decks and learning don't work real well together. For me... I found 1/4 and 3/8 inch metal leave a little more to look at. 1/8 and thinner can vanish.

Until you get where you can keep the rod the proper distance from the metal (I can only assume that will come with enough practice) use 7014 as you can practically lay the rod to the metal and only have to think about speed and direction of movement. When you find what works for you keep at it until you can do it that way all the time.

Being older has some disadvantages. You believe everything you see on the internet. (there may be some Photoshop at play) Hurry up and Practice you aren't getting any younger --- ever. Learn to laugh at yourself. Practice can be fun. If you burn through get some heaver metal there has to be something left to be able to see what you did wrong. With enough practice you will get this - at least that is the hope of my teacher.

See? There is another vote for the "monkey rod" - 7014.. It really is easier...once you get it dialed in you can move on..

 

[daugen]

I greatly appreciate all the advice. There are so many variables to consider that I think sticking with a basic rod and then varying the amperage to get a feel for it is a good place to start. Have been collecting some junk steel to work on.
Most of the work on this mower deck I'm going to let my friend do, but I will do part of it. I expect to grind a great deal on that part...

Going to concentrate on making strong welds before making nice looking ones.

 

[Shield Arc]

Several years ago, I did some fillet weld break test. 7014 broke with 10-blows of a 4-pound hammer. 7018 that never seen the inside of a rod oven broke with 18-blows of a 4-pound hammer. I beat the top plate down on the bottom plate, then had to beat the top plate back the other direction to break it off. Same thing with 7018 right out of the rod oven, it took 23-blows from a 4-pound hammer to break.
Here are some 7014 welds I did. The third picture is vertical up hill.