Weight in your tires

[Rob-D]

The problem with CaCl and WW fluid is if you get a leak or blow a tire. Not the best things to have on the ground! At least Rimguard is safe but I can see I'm going with weights. I get to keep them if I sell my tractor too.

Rob

 

[Bedlam]

I would try a rotary drill pump like this Search results for: 'drill pump'
Just make a reducer to get it to a smaller hose ..Works fine.I live in the north and it freezes here but Ive gone to straight water in the tire. The tractor is garaged in the basement so unless I leave it outside there isn't any freezing.The advantage is I change tires allot to fix holes in the tubes.I also have wheel weights as well.I've always had both for the lat 30 years.If you don't mind some time you can rig a funnel with a reduced hose in it to gravity feed any liquid. I have mixed my own calcium and used the funnel method. but at 1.99 a pump they are throw aways.

 

[dklistul]

Roy, I am in Colorado and if I go with straight water, it'll obviously have to come out before winter but I just might go that route for the summer just to see what difference there is in the feel of the tractor when mowing. If I like it, I'll probably go with something else next year, or maybe even in the fall in prep for snow removal. (I've used this machine for 5 winters -2006-2007 was particularly nasty - without any weight in the wheels and actually did alright with it.) We'll see. If my travel schedule gets as crazy as it's been the last month, I won't need to worry about it because I won't be home to run the machine anyway.

 

[msmud]

As I see this issue, the most realistic problem with fluid-filled tires is ride comfort more than rims being eaten through, or killing the environment if there is a spill of CaCl2, etc. Most of these CUTs are short wheelbase machines whose ride comfort is a bit challenged to begin with. The Ag handbooks all mention this; namely, that fluid-filling imparts unnecessary harshness to the ride and limits the amount of adjustment you can make via changing air pressure as compared to a wheel-weight laden tire.

 

[dklistul]

That is another good reason why I might just try straight water this summer. The two biggest reason I'm setting my 770 up for mowing are:

1) Speed. The JD cuts a 60" swath at about 6-7 MPH, where my old Monkey Wards rider cuts a 44" swath at about half that speed.

2) Ride comfort. That little rider just beats me to death. My place is all natural (no turf, just natural grass), which means it's pretty rough for the relatively small tires of the little mower. My back and kidneys always feel like I've been 3 rounds with Mike Tyson after mowing the whole place on that thing. The JD is much smoother because of the larger tires.

If I find fluid in the tires does too much to negate reason #2, I'll research other ways to ballast the tractor (i.e., wheel weights).

Thanks for the good feedback from everyone.

 

[RoyJackson]

2) Ride comfort. That little rider just beats me to death. My place is all natural (no turf, just natural grass), which means it's pretty rough for the relatively small tires of the little mower. My back and kidneys always feel like I've been 3 rounds with Mike Tyson after mowing the whole place on that thing. The JD is much smoother because of the larger tires.

If I find fluid in the tires does too much to negate reason #2, I'll research other ways to ballast the tractor (i.e., wheel weights).

Thanks for the good feedback from everyone.

It's probably the longer wheel base improving the ride...

I think you'll find filled tires to help you a lot...especially in those areas that make you uncomfortble.

Good luck, Bro!

 

[saskman49]

Have tubes and calcium in all four on our machine.

 

[saskman49]

That is another good reason why I might just try straight water this summer. The two biggest reason I'm setting my 770 up for mowing are:

1) Speed. The JD cuts a 60" swath at about 6-7 MPH, where my old Monkey Wards rider cuts a 44" swath at about half that speed.

2) Ride comfort. That little rider just beats me to death. My place is all natural (no turf, just natural grass), which means it's pretty rough for the relatively small tires of the little mower. My back and kidneys always feel like I've been 3 rounds with Mike Tyson after mowing the whole place on that thing. The JD is much smoother because of the larger tires.

If I find fluid in the tires does too much to negate reason #2, I'll research other ways to ballast the tractor (i.e., wheel weights).

Thanks for the good feedback from everyone.

If you find it rides too rough... Put a suspension seat on it like one of the Michigan seats from Northern Tool.

 

[deerecat]

I just got done installing anti-freeze in my tires, I just took off the tire lay them on there side and let the air out and break the top bead down and just pour the fuild in till it comes out the top of the bead and stop, then comes the messy part, air the tire back up and get top bead to seat, I used small come-a-long around the tire to get the bead almost seated then applied air to valve stem and till beads seated then installed valve core, aired to 20psi and used crane to lift tire up, installed tire back on tractor and torque wheel bolts, do the same thing to the other side, took about 50 gal for 43r20 r4 tire
100 gal for both sides. I had gotten some used anti-freeze from engein swap jobs that I worked on. at the mines. Cost 0 dollors for the whole job, just 2hrs of my time.

 

[Rob-D]

I just got done installing anti-freeze in my tires, I just took off the tire lay them on there side and let the air out and break the top bead down and just pour the fuild in till it comes out the top of the bead and stop, then comes the messy part, air the tire back up and get top bead to seat, I used small come-a-long around the tire to get the bead almost seated then applied air to valve stem and till beads seated then installed valve core, aired to 20psi and used crane to lift tire up, installed tire back on tractor and torque wheel bolts, do the same thing to the other side, took about 50 gal for 43r20 r4 tire
100 gal for both sides. I had gotten some used anti-freeze from engein swap jobs that I worked on. at the mines. Cost 0 dollors for the whole job, just 2hrs of my time.

I worry about CACL2 and antifreeze here. We have animals, gardens and fruit trees. Chances are nothing will ever happen but it only needs to happen once and we have big trouble.(years of work could be lost)
I loaded the ztrac with Rimguard and it helped. I'm light and the ride doesn't bother me so it worked out for the best. On the tractor I'm getting weights, I know they are expensive but so is CACL2 all over the place. I just have to decide if the smaller, I think they are 110# is enough or I have to go to the 150# ones.


Rob

 

[jdboy4410]

my dealer strongly recommended not using w/w fluid.john deere produced a bulletin on the dangers of it,w/w fluid is flammable.i am going to fill mine with RV anti freeze.regular anti freeze is very expensive anymore,$10 plus per gallon.i have heard about bead slipping with rim guard too.i will just wait till it goes on sale at walmart and make the buy. hey Roy,still got that rig laying around for filling them ? if you got the tools,i've got the beer ! :licking::thumbsup:

 

[RoyJackson]

my dealer strongly recommended not using w/w fluid.john deere produced a bulletin on the dangers of it,w/w fluid is flammable.i am going to fill mine with RV anti freeze.regular anti freeze is very expensive anymore,$10 plus per gallon.i have heard about bead slipping with rim guard too.i will just wait till it goes on sale at walmart and make the buy. hey Roy,still got that rig laying around for filling them ? if you got the tools,i've got the beer ! :licking::thumbsup:

I know I've still got the air/liquid adapter and the valve tool. The drill pump is long gone (they're basically disposable items) and the lengths of hose I used are gone.

Did you ever buy chains for your 4410? I know we PM'd about this back in Feb. I did get a set. Heavy SOB's!!!!
BTW, no longer have the 790. Got a 4400 now.

As far as WW fluid...yeah, it's got some methane in it, but I've never heard of a tractor tire blowing up (unless someone was welding on a wheel) or any cars catching fire from using WW fluid.

 

[Dusty1]

Yeah, I would probably worry more about the death-box filled with diesel leaking or blowing up before I worried about a tire filled with WW fluid.

 

[Rob-D]

As far as WW fluid...yeah, it's got some methane in it, but I've never heard of a tractor tire blowing up (unless someone was welding on a wheel) or any cars catching fire from using WW fluid.

That's a good point Roy. I wonder jus how flammable that stuff really is. My only concern would be it leaking somewhere it could cause damage like the gardens.

Rob

 

[dt.2448]

I know many of you run weight in your tires and I'm considering doing it myself. I need to get some added stability into my 770 because some of my mowing is on some ground with some slope.

The book says to fill the tires with Calcium Chloride to a level so that the tops of the rims are always covered, to prevent corrosion. Stopped at the dealer today and he suggested only filling halfway (up to about the level of the axle). The salesman didn't instill a lot of confidence in me, as he seemed to be guessing on most answers.

Calcium Chloride worries me; I've seen what that crap can do to wheel rims.

I'm also looking to put a ballast box on the back of the tractor to balance my FEL.

Anyway, on to my questions.

1) What do you guys use in your tires? Calcium Chloride? Foam? Anti-freeze of some sort?

2) Does it take special equipment to put the fluid in or is there a way to do it at home? (I live a long way from the dealer and would rather not have to trailer the thing if I don't need to).

3) Do those of you with weighted tires also use a ballast box with your FEL?

I'm just trying to put a plan together here.

Thanks

When I had my 770 with filled tires the inside tire would still spin on a slope in my yard. I had some spacers made from billet aluminum. They not only made the tractor WAY more stable but improved the looks as well to me. I think they were 2.5" ea. I found they were WELL worth the money for me. (200.00 I believe) Hope this helps

 

[Rob-D]

When I had my 770 with filled tires the inside tire would still spin on a slope in my yard. I had some spacers made from billet aluminum. They not only made the tractor WAY more stable but improved the looks as well to me. I think they were 2.5" ea. I found they were WELL worth the money for me. (200.00 I believe) Hope this helps

I highly caution people against this. What happens when you move the tires out is that the tractor load capability is greatly reduced.

Why? Hold a bowling ball in your hand with your arm bent and the ball next to your body. Now stretch your arm out and see how far you can go and still hold the bowling ball. That's what you're asking your tractor to do. If a manufacturer doesn't spec spacers, don't use them.


Rob

 

[k0ua]

I just filled mine with RV antifreeze.. it is not toxic. Polyethelene Glycol, you can drink small amounts of this stuff, Non Corrosive, Non flamable, No bead slip problems, No tubes needed/can plug leaks. Only downside cost. I paid $4 per gallon at Tractor supply. I used the "Roy" method of filling, It sure was easy to do. I bought pump at home depot. $6, and air/liquid fill valve at Tractor supply, put 24 gallon and about 1 gallon of water in each 15-19.5. Sure helps a lot. I know some dealers wont send out a tractor with loader without loading the tires, I think they have the right attitude, why not start a "newbie" out with a safer, more useful tractor? Without a rear counterweight and/or loaded tires a "bare" tractor is unsafe/useless. Of course if you have a good heavy implement on the rear you are ok. But loading tires gives a margin of safety when you are sidehilling makes it worth while for me. I loaded only to about 55-60 percent to keep most of the weight below the axle. My 2 cents worth:thumbsup:
James K0UA

 

[etcallhome]

I used winter washer fluid close to 4 yrs in my first JD425. I had a leak that I could not get stopped so I took tire off the wheel..I noticed upon doing so there was rust in several places on the inside of the rim. I have not used anything in the rims since then..
As for spacers I wouldn't go with 2.5" alum. but I did buy JD spacers sold for my 2305 I think they were 3/4 or 1". I will agree just adding the spacers made a world of difference.. Without the spacers I couldn't put chains on because of subframe of BH.

 

[Raspy]

Roy,

Why did you use windshield washer fluid in your tires?

The cheap stuff you mentioned has no antifreeze, if I remember correctly. I've used that very stuff and had the washers freeze on my truck.

If it's corrosion resistance, what in that stuff helps with corrosion?

How is it better than water?


Thanks, John

 

[RoyJackson]

Roy,

Why did you use windshield washer fluid in your tires?

It did have a low freezing point, well below zero. I got it cheap in bulk when on sale. BTW, by "bulk", it was gallon containers in cases (4 containers to a box).
Although the 670 was garaged, I also used it in my vehicles which were left outside. Never had a freeze up even when the vehicle or vehcles sat for a few days.
As far as why, at that time (2001) folks were getting away from CaCl and windshield washer fluid was a quite popular substitute (at least in CUTs). I don't think Rimguard or RV antifreeze was commonly available at that time.
If I had to do it today, I'm not sure what I'd use but I'm sure I'd base the decision primarily on cost.