Water in the hydraulics in my Siromer 204E remedy please.

[JonnyH]

I have water in the hydraulic system. Grey slurry. How to get rid please and how to go about it.

 

[dodge man]

Drain the system and replace the fluid. Also change any filters in the hydraulic system and clean any screens. You also need to figure out how water is getting in, such as a bad shifter boot.

 

[JonnyH]

Hi ,
Thanks for responding.
My tractor was left outside overnight, started to rain went ballistic for4 days.
Long story short, gear lever boot was split didn't take any notice until found
couldn't climb a small incline?
Found out why, checked hydraulic oil levels dip sticks both showed grey
contaminated oil.

 

[big bubba]

when my tractor is left outside, i always put a 5 gal bucket over the shifter knobs whether i cover the machine or not. & yes to above advice posts.

 

[dodge man]

I’d change the fluid and run it a few hours then change it again.

 

[big bubba]

instead of changing a 2nd time, wait till the tractor's been sitting cold several days, then briefly remove drain plug to purge moisture that will have collected on bottom of sump, then top off. when the hyd fluid is warm, the fluid goes grey from the water mix. good luck & get a new gear boot & keep covered, regards

 

[Harry in Ky]

instead of changing a 2nd time, wait till the tractor's been sitting cold several days, then briefly remain drain plug to remove moisture that will have collected on bottom of sump, then top off. when the hyd fluid is warm, the fluid goes grey from the water mix. good luck & get a new gear boot & keep covered, regards

I've seen this suggestion mentioned more than once, so I can't help but ask. Have you actually done this with any success at all? My experience with water contaminated transmissions has shown the fluid can be drained, refilled, drained, refilled, possibly four of five times and watery oil is still present. One change, prolonged standing and simply draining of the remaining water at the bottom simply doesn't work. That yuck is everywhere in the system and takes nearly forever to work it all out.

 

[big bubba]

you might be right. hard to say. oil is heavier than water & will settle. but i would recommend this method a few times before going to the expense of a 2nd full change.
if the OP's hyd started to malfunction due to moisture, it may require a flush then final change. but i'd try my method a few times b4hand. regards,

 

[Harry in Ky]

Yes, water can settle under the oil, provided it's not mixed first. Cracking drain plugs might help in many cases, but only if the water is discovered BEFORE starting and running the tractor.

 

[garry1p]

After draining and replacing the filters run if for a short time and if there is a hint of water then I would just drain and change filters again until you are sure you have all the contaminate removed.

 

[AnotherBueller]

I have water in the hydraulic system. Grey slurry. How to get rid please and how to go about it.

Drain, change the filter(s) flush with new fluid start to run the fluid through the whole system, then cycle everything at least twice. let it sit for awhile then drain and put the drained fluid in in a clear container and if you see any water or anything at all, repeat the above until you don't.

 

[Tx Jim]

After changing hyd oil & filter check to be sure vent on trans case is open so if any moisture is present in trans case moisture has a path to evaporate through open vent after hyd reaches operating temperature.

 

[etpm]

Hi guys.
Thanks to you all.
Watching a special event here in UK......on my tv. Madison Square Garden.
Amazing evening here seeing this important time in the USA.
Praying that DJT & JDV to win big.

My regards to you all.

Jonny H
Cheltenham
UK

Just so you know Jonny, no politics allowed on this site.
Eric

 

[CoyPatton]

I have never done this but had old timers tell me it works.
Several old timers I have know swore using diesel fuel as a flush fluid with some Heat would remove the sludge and moisture from the hydraulic system of the tractor. According to them any cylinders needed to be cycled several times and the 3 PH should also be cycled several times.
So drain system, flush with diesel fuel, drain system fill with hydraulic fluid and change all filters and clean your screen.
According to those guys you should be good to go.
Again this is an untried procedure by me.
I probably would not do this to hydrostatic drive system, fearing pump damage.

 

[arrow]

Once you have water emulsified with oil, you will never get all of this out with one flush.
Go to Tractor Supply and get their cheapest hydraulic fluid that applies to your machines criteria. You will need 3 oil changes or at least two and two hydraulic filters.Figure the oil changes are cheaper than any other fix. First thing: change out hydraulic filter first as original is all gummed up with the emulsified oil. Drain contaminated oil. Refill and Run the tractor extensively getting the fluid good and hot. If your machine has a fel, raise the fel as high as it will go when you drain the system so you get a degree of drain back. This is still a pressurized system until you shut the tractor off and blip the joystick a couple times to relieve some pressure build up.

Fill it back up and get the fluid hot again. Drain it out. Fill it back up , drain it with same technique as above.
Now put in a good hydraulic fluid and with a new filter, you should be good to go.
Also, fix the leak points of water contamination.

 

[AnotherBueller]

I have never done this but had old timers tell me it works.
Several old timers I have know swore using diesel fuel as a flush fluid with some Heat would remove the sludge and moisture from the hydraulic system of the tractor. According to them any cylinders needed to be cycled several times and the 3 PH should also be cycled several times.
So drain system, flush with diesel fuel, drain system fill with hydraulic fluid and change all filters and clean your screen.
According to those guys you should be good to go.
Again this is an untried procedure by me.
I probably would not do this to hydrostatic drive system, fearing pump damage.

The hydrostatic drive is part of the same hydraulic system, if you don't flush it you leave water in it.

 

[CoyPatton]

The hydrostatic drive is part of the same hydraulic system, if you don't flush it you leave water in it.

Never meant to imply I would not flush a hydrostatic drive. I apologize if I implied that. I merely meant that I would not flush with diesel fuel on a hydrostatic drive.

 

[CoyPatton]

Once you have water emulsified with oil, you will never get all of this out with one flush.
Go to Tractor Supply and get their cheapest hydraulic fluid that applies to your machines criteria. You will need 3 oil changes or at least two and two hydraulic filters.Figure the oil changes are cheaper than any other fix. First thing: change out hydraulic filter first as original is all gummed up with the emulsified oil. Drain contaminated oil. Refill and Run the tractor extensively getting the fluid good and hot. If your machine has a fel, raise the fel as high as it will go when you drain the system so you get a degree of drain back. This is still a pressurized system until you shut the tractor off and blip the joystick a couple times to relieve some pressure build up.

Fill it back up and get the fluid hot again. Drain it out. Fill it back up , drain it with same technique as above.
Now put in a good hydraulic fluid and with a new filter, you should be good to go.
Also, fix the leak points of water contamination.

While I agree that all cylinders (which includes FEL cylinders) should be cycled (several times) as a part of the flush, leaving the loader in a raised position has little to no effect on the amount of oil that is in the cylinders on a dual action (hoses at both ends of the cylinder) hydraulic cylinder. The rod is pushed in both directions by hydraulic oil. In reality there is slightly more oil in the cylinder with the rod extended as the rod is not occupying space (volume) inside the cylinder.

 

[qualsite]

Of course, the problem is the "mayonnaise emulsified oil" still in the hoses, filters, pump, and cylinders. You can dry out the tank with warm air flow, but as soon as the wet oil returns to the sump, you've got water again, but at a lower saturation level. Drain a couple times after using it so that the oil gets hot. Then you are somewhat dependent upon the hot oil eventually gassing off the water remaining in the system, but you just have to get the moisture level down low enough so that the moisture saturated oil does not affect the operating properties of the oil. Water and oil do not like to stay mixed, so as long as the entrained moisture is low enough and not emulsified to not cause any operational problems, the heat of the oil will eventually drive it out. For the oil that you pull out on a 2nd flush, if it's barely used, you can probably let it sit with a vent in the cap, and the water should eventually gas off if you leave the container in the sun for a awhile, and if you wanted to get fancy and have a vacuum pump on the farm, you could pull a vacuum on the oil which will cause the water to boil off and get pulled out of the oil as a vapor.

 

[mkendrix]

I have a 1960 International 404 with serious water leaks. Gaskets/seals are no longer available or outrageously priced. An old farmer told me to drain system, disconnect all hoses to drip dry and fill with kerosene. My hydraulic pump has a whine in it with water present. I do this every two years or so and the whine stops within seconds. The fluid is thin so seals may leak for a while but are fine after you drain it (change filters) and refill with appropriate hydraulic fluid. I don’t know about hydrostatic drives as to if it’ll hurt it but I’ve driven mine for months with kerosene in the system.