Want to buy a dump trailer, kinda torn here.

[Jackstack76]

Almost all newer trucks now have factory 5th wheel/ GN prep with added cameras in the third brake light to see the GN ball. I back up to my GN alone in one attempt every time using the factory camera.

I have a 14" bumper pull, my next will be a GN triple 7 dump, but I don't expect to need to mess with the CDL crap or combined registration. I'm in an area that doesn't mess with you, and I don't see me needing to leave my area. I think a lot of the determination depends on where you live and how the police do or don't look for that stuff.

Was looking at the frame of my truck last night and there’s threaded holes, I’m assuming that’s for the gooseneck hitch. So hopefully it would be a fairy easy install. I was looking at the B&W ones.

 

[Jackstack76]

I have a 16k mostly because the price was right. I didn’t need the payload but I do like the 17.5 tires vs the 16s on a 14k.

Well I’ve also got to consider tire replacement costs. Those G rated tires cost enough it seems, haven’t looked but I bet those 17.5’s are getting up there.

 

[Jackstack76]

After you do enough decades of hauling with trailers, you realize there’s so many different theories and strategies. Enough to make you crazy.
If you tend to be subject to overloading-carrying more random weight cargo, like wet/dry hay or wet/dry dirt, I would suggest a heavier built trailer. That way if you overload it here & there, it won’t break. Opting for 17.5k wheels/tires and 8k axles instead of 7k axles and 16” wheels/tires makes sense on a 16k trailer. Even though 7ks are enough (2k tongue weight) the heavier axles & wheel/tires give you a “margin of error” that the 7ks and the 16” wheel/tire doesn’t have as much of.

If you are carrying the same load almost every time, like a 11,000lb tractor for example, then you are fine with a 16k trailer with 7k axles and basic tires & wheels. But if you are hauling all sorts of different random loads, opt for the heavier running gear.

Even though the 16k trailer with 7k‘s and 16” wheel/tire actually has a few hundred more lbs payload than the 16k trailer with 8ks and 17.5” wheel/tire, the latter will hold up better to an overloading situation and hold up better in severe use in fields, rougher use and the running gear should hold up longer.

Well I know they will build me one with the 8k axels and g rated rubber on a 14 footer. I think to go to the 16k and 17.5’s you have to go to the 16 footer and spread axel they offer.

 

[nisaacs]

Company up in Iowa right by the northwest Missouri border. Owner is the one that originally started H&H back in the 90’s.

https://www.pullhp.com/site/e426b0709e874e45802b51bac54e6ad5/default?url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.pullhp.com%2FGooseneck_Dump_Boxes.html#2810

The link don't work for me so I did a search and found their web site. They have a lot of good info, yet some of the important stuff is lacking. Overall they appear to be a fine trailer. Only 20" sides standard, $70 per foot for 24". The sides would concern me, no side stiffeners in uprights or horizontal, just the top rail. I wonder about the axles, generally if name brand is used, they say so, it is not posted.

Do your research, read the fine print and look at other manufactures, they are not all created equal. Add up your options, tarp kit is a must. Couple pictures of the spread axle model.

This link might work: Equipment Utility Trailers For Sale | Pullhp.com

 

[Hay Dude]

Agree. That trailer looks light-built, but maybe it’s a 10k dump. Agree the sides look flimsy. Cant tell how heavy the hoist is. Dump angle looks good.

 

[Jackstack76]

The link don't work for me so I did a search and found their web site. They have a lot of good info, yet some of the important stuff is lacking. Overall they appear to be a fine trailer. Only 20" sides standard, $70 per foot for 24". The sides would concern me, no side stiffeners in uprights or horizontal, just the top rail. I wonder about the axles, generally if name brand is used, they say so, it is not posted.

Do your research, read the fine print and look at other manufactures, they are not all created equal. Add up your options, tarp kit is a must. Couple pictures of the spread axle model.

This link might work: Equipment Utility Trailers For Sale | Pullhp.com

View attachment 696130View attachment 696131

I’ve looked at all kinds of brands now till I’m blue in the face. I’m around a lot of construction jobs for work and see various brands. Mainly big tex, I’ve seen a PJ or two, H&H and some load trails and one Diamond C. I also looked out the HP’s when I bought my my other trailer from there. The Big Tex’s look cheap and cheaply built imo. The load trails I’ve seen look pretty solid but they sit high. I’ve called a local dealer about a PJ and they want a arm and a leg for one of he could even get one right now.
Its a tough choice since it’s not a cheap purchase.

 

[LD1]

Got to work today and looked at one of our older (maybe 8-10 year old) griffin dump trailers and reminded me of something.

Look at the ramp capacity for loading equipment. There is a sticker on the back that specifically says "maximum equipment load for ramps 5000#"

Whats the point of having a 14k dump trailer if you can only load a piece of equipment on it at half its rated capacity?

Im not sure why this is....but I have a theory. The ramps are plenty heavy.....but it has to do with how the ramps attach. On the griffin, they only hang on the swinging gate. Which is only like 1-1/2 or 2" square tube. Before my time.....they had attempted to load a 8800# skidloader on this trailer and bent it down. Their fix was to just weld it solid to the trailer because they never had plans on using it to tail-gate spread anyway.

My suretrac trailer has no limitations. I think because the ramps are supported by the trailer itself rather than just the hinged gate. I have loaded my 8000# mini on it and nothing bent.

So if you plan on hauling equipment.....dont get a trailer that has reduced ramp capacity because they decided to support them only with the swinging tailgate part.

 

[Hay Dude]

Id say buy a trailer according to its use and duty cycle.
If its light duty use and/or infrequent duty cycle use, then buy a light duty trailer.

That way you aren't wasting money on buying extra steel and running gear you don't need.

If its heavy duty use and/or frequent duty cycle use, then buy a heavy duty trailer.

 

[Jackstack76]

Well one more thought, what if you wanted to mount a leaf vacuum on one of these? I assume it would be a lot harder on a gooseneck. I’ve seen some mounted and hanging off the back but don’t really dig that idea.

 

[Hay Dude]

The non-reinforced sides will be ok (somewhat hesitant in saying that) as long as you dont have one side down, one side up and you are off-loading material from the down side. You might push material into up side and bend it. Or if you are loading heavy materials like irregular shaped logs. Once they are bent, thats a bad day. It would be ok for mulch, stone, most construction debris.
Although the Lamar trailer I posted is pricey, its built like a tank. The 14k model is built pretty nice, too.

Youll get what you pay for in most cases.