Used Kubota L5030 - Good Buy?

[GrouseHunter]

Hi Experts,

Wanting to gut check a potential tractor buy. Looking at a 2003 L5030 GST with 900hrs, comes with FEL and curtis cab, and has a set of rear remotes. It's immaculate, has full service records, and haven't found anything comparable in this price range in my region. I've negotiated it down to $27k, but when i called the local dealer he said he would have listed it in the 22-24k range, and given 18-20k trade in value. I'm nervous about pulling the trigger now after having that conversation, but it is also the best thing i've seen over the last few months of searching for something in that hp range and in that condition. What do ya'll think, decent deal or walk away and wait for the next one?

 

[bdhsfz6]

Try checking Tractorhouse:

https://www.tractorhouse.com/listings/for-sale/kubota/l5030/farm-equipment

From a brief look, $27K is the median listing for tractors in similar condition.

 

[dieselscout80]

Hi Experts,

Wanting to gut check a potential tractor buy. Looking at a 2003 L5030 GST with 900hrs, comes with FEL and curtis cab, and has a set of rear remotes. It's immaculate, has full service records, and haven't found anything comparable in this price range in my region. I've negotiated it down to $27k, but when i called the local dealer he said he would have listed it in the 22-24k range, and given 18-20k trade in value. I'm nervous about pulling the trigger now after having that conversation, but it is also the best thing i've seen over the last few months of searching for something in that hp range and in that condition. What do ya'll think, decent deal or walk away and wait for the next one?

That was one of my top choices when I was tractor shopping, but I got a NH TC45DA.

THe L5030 would have been nicer do to more HP.

 

[rScotty]

Hi Experts,

Wanting to gut check a potential tractor buy. Looking at a 2003 L5030 GST with 900hrs, comes with FEL and curtis cab, and has a set of rear remotes. It's immaculate, has full service records, and haven't found anything comparable in this price range in my region. I've negotiated it down to $27k, but when i called the local dealer he said he would have listed it in the 22-24k range, and given 18-20k trade in value. I'm nervous about pulling the trigger now after having that conversation, but it is also the best thing i've seen over the last few months of searching for something in that hp range and in that condition. What do ya'll think, decent deal or walk away and wait for the next one?

When buying used - which I alway prefer to do - my search technique is to start with the high priced ones. I'm picky, and specifically looking for one that is immaculate. And I'm willing to pay a premium.

I figure there is just no way to put a price on the time that a perfectionist puts into keeping a machine in top shape. At 900 hours, he has had enough time to find and fix any weak points and that many hours doesn't even begin to reduce it's lifespan.
I don't think of a low hour immaculate machine as used; I consider it to be proven.

Bottom line is when I find the machine I want to buy used, I always expect it to be above the average price. If it wasn't, then I wouldn't be interested. You are basically talking about a 10% difference, and I would say that's as near the same price as makes no difference.

What does make a difference is if this is the right tractor for what you want to do. If there are any doubts then walk away. But if it is the right tractor, I'd be moving on it.

rScotty

 

[GrouseHunter]

When buying used - which I alway prefer to do - my search technique is to start with the high priced ones. I'm picky, and specifically looking for one that is immaculate. And I'm willing to pay a premium.

I figure there is just no way to put a price on the time that a perfectionist puts into keeping a machine in top shape. At 900 hours, he has had enough time to find and fix any weak points and that many hours doesn't even begin to reduce it's lifespan.
I don't think of a low hour immaculate machine as used; I consider it to be proven.

Bottom line is when I find the machine I want to buy used, I always expect it to be above the average price. If it wasn't, then I wouldn't be interested. You are basically talking about a 10% difference, and I would say that's as near the same price as makes no difference.

What does make a difference is if this is the right tractor for what you want to do. If there are any doubts then walk away. But if it is the right tractor, I'd be moving on it.

rScotty

Well said Scotty, that is the mindset I had going into it, but when the dealer told me he would give me 18k trade in, I got a bit of a nervous feeling thinking i'd be losing 10k as soon as i take it from him, guess I always have to keep in mind that he is a salesman at a dealer though.

Appreciate the response.

 

[scootr]

If your only concern is that the local dealer said if he had it he would sell it for less... well, he doesn't have it or one like it and there is no guaranty what his price would actually be.
I like it. It has all the options you want. With low hrs and in the condition you want. Worse case scenario you pay a little more than some people would prefer. But in the end getting the best used tractor is sweeter than compromising for less tractor than you need.
For me the only negative is the age (20 yrs old) Lots of flexible goods can degrade in that time. I would take a hard look for brittle or cracked hoses and leaks.

 

[rScotty]

I don't pay any attention to what a dealer says he will trade for something. How could he possibly know without seeing it?
But keep in mind when I am buying a used tractor I am buying with the intention of keeping it. I've no intention of trading it in. If I do sell it, it will be to an individual rather than a dealer.
I prefer to sell to an individual because -more important than the money - is that someone appreciate the care, the records, the literature, tools, spares, and history that comes along with the tractor.

 

[scootr]

Also note 900 hrs over 20 yrs is 45 hrs a year...that's average for a hobby farm like horse ranch or such.
I have several used machines, cars to tractors that I have bought mostly used over the years. Sometimes paying a little over what everybody else is willing to pay is the only thing between you getting the machine and somebody else getting it.
Like rScotty says you pay a small premium for a premium machine. GL

 

[WVH1977]

If the machine is in the shape you say it is in and you like it, who cares if you overpay for it. If you have the funds and it is good shape buy it and dont worry about it.

I bought a 2002 f250 lariat, V-10 with 31,000 miles on it 2 years ago. I paid 24K for it. That is probaly high but I still have it and is in like new condition for being 20 years old. I worried that I paid too much but I am not sure where you will find another f250 of that generation, in great shape with low miles.

 

[JethroB]

Two years ago when I was looking to go from a bare bones (no FEL, remotes, etc.) 2018 Kubota L4760 ROPS with 200 hours on it to a similar new cabbed model. My local Kubota dealer offered me $16k trade-in as he said that was what he would get selling it to a trader or on auction after making a few calls. They don’t carry used equipment on their lot. He suggested I sell it myself which I finally did through Facebook Marketplace. He suggested $22,000 as an asking price which is about what I got. There didn’t seem to be a lot of cash buyers last year. The buyer immediately added a new FEL and third function for about $7500.

Just my anecdotal story. I look at the online sites as asking prices, what they actually sell for could be another story.

Good luck in your search!

 

[GrouseHunter]

Thanks for all the responses, have decided to go for it and will be picking it up Saturday. Appreciate all the advice and insight!

 

[Texasmark]

When I buy used the first thing I do is to change the fluids. On a tractor that has been sitting a lot (like your new purchase), over the years the particulates in the oil will settle out and wind up accumulating on the oil pan.

If you change the oil and the new oil gets dirty on the runup after the change, you are experiencing that problem.

I add a 16 oz. can of Sea Foam to the oil and let the tractor idle for 20-30 minutes and then drain the oil and change the filter (again). This has worked for me in cleaning the engine and keeping the new oil honey colored.

 

[chim]

The only thing that I'm thinking of is the non-factory cab - unless it has heat and A/C. If you can get the doors off easily, heat would be enough for creature comfort. I ran a DIY cab with heat only and it would have been OK. I had an opportunity to go with a factory cab, and am really glad for the A/C when it is hot, dusty or we have a lot of pollen.

 

[Carl_NH]

How about some pics of your new to you tractor! Hope it was everything you expected and more!

 

[Texasmark]

The only thing that I'm thinking of is the non-factory cab - unless it has heat and A/C. If you can get the doors off easily, heat would be enough for creature comfort. I ran a DIY cab with heat only and it would have been OK. I had an opportunity to go with a factory cab, and am really glad for the A/C when it is hot, dusty or we have a lot of pollen.

"Dust" when baling hay besides being cool makes life sweet when you are baling.