Upper HYD. Link

[Bedlam]

I am posting a few pics of my Hyd. upper link I just got done building.Hope it give people some ideas. I got my original from the forums, and glad for it, as I had never heard of such a thing before.
I bought a piston from 3" x 10" x 2" piston from surplus, for 49.99 dollars, and two three foot 1/4 inch hoses. (1/4 inch so that the flow would be slow enough ) and four 1/4 inch quick disconnects.
I bought two link end repairlinks from a company in Maine for the ends.One end of the piston was flat.(no clevis etc) I extended the rod out, and packed that end with snow, to cool it. I then welded the link to the flat end.
The opposite end had an eyelet of 5/8. I stood the cylinder on end in the vice and sawed a slot into it and slid the repair end into it, and welded it. That end of the rod was 2" .and would interfere with the impliments end, so I used a circular saw and metal blade and make a 45 degree angle.
Luckily, I had a valve that feeds the swing on the plow. So I put in a 1/4 inch "T' to power it.
I ended with 17.75 inches retracted. And 27.75 extended.(got the 10 inch stroke).
All together, I spent just about 145. dollars for materials.
For my use, I wont miss the check valves...
I did encounter one stumbling block tho. It has SAE 4 ports. I was in a rush, and didnt notice that when I ordered.
They have adapters from this o ring seal thread to 1/4 inch but I forgot to buy them. I ended up spending another two hours hunting two down.
Allan

 

[Bedlam]

and another

 

[Bedlam]

and the flat end link.(excuse the welding)

 

[Bedlam]

and the last one..

 

[wushaw]

Good job /forums/images/graemlins/cool.gif /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif
Ain't nothin like the satisfaction of /forums/images/graemlins/cool.gifdoin it yourself

 

[Oleozz]

Very nice job, have you had a chance to use it yet? Thanks for posting the pics.

 

[JSUnlimited]

Nice work! I'm waiting for my cylinders to get here (Friday!) so I can do the same. It's always nice to see others doing projects that I've been thinking about in my crazy head!

Have you used it yet? Does the cylinder stay where you set it?

The reason I ask, is that several here swear by using pilot-operated check valves to hold the cylinder in place. After reading and searching until I was ready to die, I've decided to build my system without them.....I'll see what happens.

 

[GuglioLS]

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( ....................several here swear by using pilot-operated check valves to hold the cylinder in place. After reading and searching until I was ready to die, I've decided to build my system without them.....I'll see what happens. )</font>

Keep it simple .....
Unless you have a leaking valve you will be OK.

IMHO the pilot operated check valves are WAY over rated, they are a band-aid for leaking valves. They WILL NOT stop a cyclider from "leak down" if the internal o-ring on the piston in the cylinder is leaking fluid past it... period. I'm sure this is going to "go over well" with those who swear by pilot operated check valves and spent the extra money on them. no disrespect - to each his own. /forums/images/graemlins/tongue.gif

P.S. They can be dangerous

Speaking of safety - Hydraulic police speaking here....
Please replace those rusting low pressure fittings on that valve with genuine hydraulic high pressure fittings - They can blow up sending metal fragments flying. /forums/images/graemlins/shocked.gif

 

[PineRidge]

Well everyone here is entitled to their own opinion that's the beauty of this site. Will say that both of my T&T cylinders were purchased with double piloted check valves and they don't drift like my FEL cylinders do once set.

There have also been more than a few here that purchased cylinders without the check valves and have used them without complaints. Then there have been a few that replaced the first cylinder with a second cylinder that incorporated a check valve. Common sense tells me that there was a reason that they spent the extra dollars and made that changeover. Maybe a good member that has made that change will jump in here and shed some further thought on this, what say thee Jim? /forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif

 

[Bedlam]

Thanks, Well, Have I used it? the answer would be yes. It seems to work well. I haven't used it hard yet, Such as with my rake etc. But Ill soon be able to tell.I havent seen alot of leak down on it yet. but I usually leave in in the down position and move the lever back and forht a bit to have it settle.I think, maybe the decision to have a check valve or not, would be the price, but more so the need for it not to leak down.For my application, a bit of leakage would be ok. I am mostly looking to be able to change the blade pitch witout the turnbuckle upper link.
The cylinder was the cheap one, it isnt rebuildable, (welded end). HMM .. altho I guess you could grind the weld off and rebuild it. But that just wouldn't be worth it.
I'll give more feedback when I get out and use it more.Still winter where I am and the ground is frozen.
One poster was asking for info on why others have changed out their cylinders. That would be good to know.
Allan

 

[jmc]

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( One poster was asking for info on why others have changed out their cylinders. That would be good to know.
Allan )</font>

I ordered a new Kubota with their TnT, didn't like it, replaced it with piloted cylinders from Integration Engineering, and am satisfied now. My saga is posted awkwardly on two threads:

part one

part two

My dissatisfaction with the leak down was on the sidelink during bush hogging where you normally aren't adjusting the length periodically. I don't think I would have even notice the lleakdown on the top link. Also, the 1/4 inch hose is still too fast on my tractor so I need an orifice in there as well.

John

 

[jinman]

I'm one of those people who changed from a non-checkvalve toplink to one with POCVs. I had large 1/2" hoses on my first toplink that ballooned slightly under pressure even though they were two-wire hoses. The cylinder would move 1/2" to 3/4" under load. I didn't notice any drift over time. My remote valve seemed to hold well. I just didn't like the non-rigid nature of the toplink and I also needed a shorter toplink by about 1-1/2" so I bought one from CCM. The difference in control and rigidity is dramatic. On this toplink, the plumbing between the POCV and the cylinder ports is rigid tubing. It does not flex. If the internal seal ever leaks on a non-checkvalve cylinder, it will also fail. Whichever, that would indicate a need for maintenance. BTW, I think I paid less for the POCV toplink from CCM than I did for the original one from Baileynet. I'm happy with the new one although I'd say you will find the one you have is a tremendous improvement over manual adjustement. /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

On my sidelink, I bought a TISCO sidelink from my NH dealer. It leaks down very little, and since the 3PH floats, I personally think the need for a tight control on the sidelink is not important. Of course, my primary uses are boxblading and rotary cutter. I can't really speak to any other application.