unload auto transport trailer

[z0lt3c]

picked up a parts car an decided this was the best way to get it off the trailer after it wouldn't start;

 

[Diamondpilot]

Would it not lift it? My Jinma 254 lifted a Dodge 3/4 ton van with a 360 gas engine in it no problem.

Chris

 

[Diamondpilot]

Would it not lift it? My Jinma 254 lifted a Dodge 3/4 ton van with a 360 gas engine in it no problem. I did not use forks though, just put the bucket under the bumper.

Chris

 

[MossRoad]

Why didn't you just roll it off?

 

[z0lt3c]

It would/did lift it no problem but the trailer had ramps so I just strapped the forks to the rear bumper support and pulled it down the ramps using the backplate on the forks to hold the car so it didn't roll down out of control.


With only one person, it's almost impossible to perform a controlled roll since the person generally can't push from inside the vehicle.

 

[kebo]

Sort of an off topic question, but it looks like the left fender on that (uhaul?) trailer tilts down. I guess this to give some clearance to open the door?

 

[Willl]

I guess this to give some clearance to open the door?

Yup.

 

[z0lt3c]

It's a Uhaul 1way trailer, and yes (as previously confirmed) the fender folds to allow the door to open. The $5 insurance is the best part. Here is what it looked like loaded up;

 

[Big Bri]

Yup.

i like that

 

[MossRoad]

It would/did lift it no problem but the trailer had ramps so I just strapped the forks to the rear bumper support and pulled it down the ramps using the backplate on the forks to hold the car so it didn't roll down out of control.


With only one person, it's almost impossible to perform a controlled roll since the person generally can't push from inside the vehicle.

Ahhh. I get it. Thanks.

 

[pat32rf]

Looks like you had AMPLE tonque weight...

 

[some zilch]

i routinly move several of my parts trucks around our yard with mine. i just back the tractor up to the truck, and use my 3PH mounted trailer mover's ball. the ball wedges itself in a peice of c-channel that is right in the front of all my trucks (first-gen era dodges). i then just lift the entire front end of the truck up, and off i go. no steering the truck, just pull and it follows. since its rigidly attached to the tractor, the tractor also acts as its brakes, so it can't "run away". my tractor will easily lift the front of 1-ton, 4x4, cummins powered dodges

 

[Ken45101]

Just my two cents worth:

The car was loaded too far forward, too much weight forward and the trailer was tilted down to the front, probably not a properly balanced load (10% on the hitch). Also, the hitch looks like it was too low and should have been higher. Correcting those would have kept the trailer level so that it the car could be pushed off manually.

Ideally, a trailer should be adjusted to that it is horizontal.

I'm not criticizing, just mentioning what I see would be a safer way to load and transport.

Ken

 

[z0lt3c]

Just my two cents worth

It was my first time hauling a car and there are, no doubt, things I would do different the second time around.

However, all of the "trailered" pictures I took, the ground was not level between the truck and the trailer. In both pictures the area under the trailer (a parking lot and my driveway) the ground was substantially sloped towards the truck. The load sat much better at level, but I have no pictures of this...

The car is secured predominately with straps that latch down around the forward facing wheels. Further, Uhaul required the car be loaded engine forward. In sum, this required the cars front wheels to be exactly where they were, the car could not be moved back on the trailer any further. I would have like to move it back more, or load it engine last.

The hitch is way to low. It's a 2.5" drop hitch that I originally bought for my Jeep Grand Cherokee, which I still have, but I usually prefer to tow w/ the Suburban, since I got it. It's incredible the stock receiver height difference between these vehicles. A 2.5" drop hitch on the jeep, and my boat trailer just barely has enough extension to get over the hitch ball. A 2.5" drop hitch in the suburban, and the trailer actually scrapes the ground at times. I think I need to get a "raised" hitch for the suburban (does that exist?).


As for pushing the car off manually... The tractor was way more fun!! I've had cars roll off my driveway, into the woods, and sustain significant body damage so I don't like free rolls.

 

[jwstewar]

The hitch is way to low. It's a 2.5" drop hitch that I originally bought for my Jeep Grand Cherokee, which I still have, but I usually prefer to tow w/ the Suburban, since I got it. It's incredible the stock receiver height difference between these vehicles. A 2.5" drop hitch on the jeep, and my boat trailer just barely has enough extension to get over the hitch ball. A 2.5" drop hitch in the suburban, and the trailer actually scrapes the ground at times. I think I need to get a "raised" hitch for the suburban (does that exist?).

Take the ball off, turn the hitch over, reattach the ball. Now it will raise the ball 3/4 - 1". Most of the "drop" hitches can be used this way.

The hitch on our '08 Suburban 4x4 1500 is probably 2 - 3" higher than my '99 Silverado 1500 4x4 - even with the 2500 springs on the rear of the Silverado. I need to find a longer shank for my weight distribution hitches. I can find them, but by the time I pay shipping, they end up being a small fortune.

 

[Ken45101]

Take the ball off, turn the hitch over, reattach the ball. Now it will raise the ball 3/4 - 1". Most of the "drop" hitches can be used this way.

The hitch on our '08 Suburban 4x4 1500 is probably 2 - 3" higher than my '99 Silverado 1500 4x4 - even with the 2500 springs on the rear of the Silverado. I need to find a longer shank for my weight distribution hitches. I can find them, but by the time I pay shipping, they end up being a small fortune.

I have several drop hitches of different height for different tow vehicles and trailers The problem with the hitch with the biggest drop is that it sticks out so far that the safety chains don't reach

Probably the best approach is to get one of the hitches that are adjustable up and down. Do that first and you won't have to buy others, LOL.

Ken

 

[jwstewar]

Actually Ken, I need a longer adjustable shank. I already have two adjustable WD hitches set at different heights (And different weight distribution bars - the TT is 1200 and the flat bed is 1000 lb bars - I know close, but they are different hitch heads, one Reese, the other Curt). One for the TT and one for the flat bed and stock trailer. On the Silverado it is almost low enough but not quite. On the Suburban it doesn't even come close to be low enough - especially on the stock trailer. The front axle is barely touching the ground. I'll defintely have to get it before I get the horses.

I currently have 2 of these: http://www.etrailer.com/pc-WDS~54976.htm (Except one is rated 1,000/10,000 and the other is 1,200/12,000 rated)

Need something more like this to replace one of them: http://www.etrailer.com/pc-WDS~63971.htm

 

[z0lt3c]

Thanks for the info guys. I took a look at some of those links. For $60, this seems like a good idea to maintain 1 setup between both trucks;

 

[Ken45101]

Yes, that's the kind I was talking about.

Ken

 

[jwstewar]

Thanks for the info guys. I took a look at some of those links. For $60, this seems like a good idea to maintain 1 setup between both trucks;

Except it won't work with a weight distribution system which I usually use with the 16+2 utility trailer. That looks pretty thin, wonder what it is rated at?