TX1300F tractor split: any tips or tricks?

[marcelPL]

I will soon have to split my TX1300F to replace the clutch.

This is far from my 'normal' world. Is there anybody here who has already done this excercise and has some tips or tricks available?

many thanks
Marcel.

 

[arto98607]

I took a similar design & vintage tractor engine out for some repairs over 16 years ago - here's few photos showing some of what's involved.

These will help: Metric hand-tools, wood blocks & wedges and engine hoist would be handy to have, but I am sure can be done without it also - it just makes the job lot easier.


Please note the clutch is pretty big for small tractor (19 hp) due to combination clutch for gears & PTO


This was around year 2006 or so:





Almost all back together, except the front end loader!

 

[marcelPL]

Pretty impressive. Good work, mate! I wish you were my neighbor .

The Iseki (I think) works a bit different. Splitting means the front and rear cannot stay together (like in your photos) . With front wheels still connected. But maybe I am wrong.

I got the parts in today (from Hungary, it took almost 200 euro), so the moment of 'just do this' has come closer...

But thanks for the photos, it already shows quite a lot of what is waiting for me. Being a software engineer, I have no clue about a lot of these things....

Marcel.

 

[arto98607]

Pretty impressive. Good work, mate! I wish you were my neighbor .

The Iseki (I think) works a bit different. Splitting means the front and rear cannot stay together (like in your photos) . With front wheels still connected. But maybe I am wrong.

I got the parts in today (from Hungary, it took almost 200 euro), so the moment of 'just do this' has come closer...

But thanks for the photos, it already shows quite a lot of what is waiting for me. Being a software engineer, I have no clue about a lot of these things....

Marcel.

Marcel,
Thanks, glad if I could help - yeah I see it's a bit on distance in-between us!

Actually during the Ford 1310 disassembly only things sort of 'holding the front axle in place' were the steering link and the front drive shaft, as can be seen below in the zoomed-in section of my previous photo.

IE. The engine acts also as a frame towards the rear, but there is a separate heavy flat-bar type frame from the engine forwards front axle.
The flat-bar frame can partially be seen in one of my photos.

These 1980's design tractors are pretty simple to work on since the cast iron engine/transmission/differential are also the main frame of tractor.

Cheers,

 

[chrismac]

I hope you find it easy to do, I found the 4 wheel drive shaft was up there as about one of the most fiddly (awkward) parts to remove, once you remove all the bits that are attached to the rear, oil pipes, cables, hoses, the engine will lift out of the frame its bolted too, it will be tight, and the bolts are fine thread, a few of mine threatened to pick up but I managed to remove them, I think from memory they are different lengths so be careful when rebuilding,

I'll attach some photos for yo to have a look at what you can expect to see.

DSC02549 by chrismac2012, on Flickr

DSC02548 by chrismac2012, on Flickr

DSC02550 by chrismac2012, on Flickr

I may stand corrected and you can leave the engine fitted to the front axle, rolling it forward.

Untitled by chrismac2012, on Flickr
Untitled by chrismac2012, on Flickr

inside the bell housing,
Untitled by chrismac2012, on Flickr

Most off good luck,

Chris

 

[lens12]

I've always split the tractor to replace a clutch. There is a lot less to remove than pulling the motor. Put blocks between the engine frame & front axle so it doesn't tip. Block the front & use a floor jack to move the back half,

 

[Ernie-32]

Most importantly is to create a centre-tool before you take the old clutch off and which will garantee you can rebolt the new clutch exactly centrered. If this centering of the new clutch is done nicely, at least with attention to detail, the reassembly will go easily. If not, you might discover the carter doesn't properly match the threads. Temptation to hit the bloody carter with some violence to get bolts in, can be the beginning of another problem... Use a torque spanner (check force tables before you start to see if your spanner meets the requiered range) and lock-tight liquid to not have a spontaneous split in the future

 

[lens12]

If you don't have a clutch alignment tool, center the dick in the pressure plate. I've done this many times.

 

[ROUSTABOUT]

I always get myself a couple of bolts that fit rear of engine. Let's say 4" long. Cut the heads off. Hacksaw straight down in the bolt to make it so where you can use a flat head screwdriver to remove it. Put those two bolt shanks into Engine for line up pins. I know it has short dowel pins but your input will hit pilot bushing before your trans hits the back of engine. Plus you can kinda measuralize things to see how skrate you are. Be sure you put them two bolts in a place you can remove them from. Ive taken them apart and pilot bearing was gone, not there anymore, so check yours. Be sure to check that.

 

[Ernie-32]

So the big question remains : have you started cutting her in two already ????