Trying to contact RonMar

   / Trying to contact RonMar
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#11  
I don't have a Jinma, I have a Yuchai bulldozer. The same nylon suction strainer was used in both applications. My installation was more straightforward because the strainer goes directly into the side of the reservoir at the bottom.
There are all different sizes and configurations of suction strainers, you can find something that will work. Try hydraulic shops, Grainger, McMaster-Carr, etc. If you have the capability, you can install an in-line spin-on suction filter.
 
   / Trying to contact RonMar
  • Thread Starter
#12  
Thanks for the reply. I saw where you had a conversation with another member about converting to a spin on filter setup but I'm not as young and as adventurous as I used to be. Also was concerned about the loss of some ground clearance if you mounted the strainer below the floor board. Is there any reason to set the strainer in the sump horizonally rather than vertically? Only advantage I can see is the hydraulic fluid level could get lower without starving the pump if the strainer was mounted horizonally at the bottom.
 
   / Trying to contact RonMar #13  
It doesn't matter where or how the strainer is mounted as long as it's highest point is submersed in oil by at least four inches minimum in total. Also, a spin-on filter may be mounted horizontally.
 
   / Trying to contact RonMar
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#14  
It doesn't matter where or how the strainer is mounted as long as it's highest point is submersed in oil by at least four inches minimum in total. Also, a spin-on filter may be mounted horizontally.
That helps me make a decision. I now understand why Ron had to go horizontal with the 8 in. long filter he used since the sump on the tractor is only about 5 in. deep. I'll find an aftermarket filter that will work. You never said anything about Ron. Do you know if he's still around? He was a great source of info on this site. Thanks for all your help. You too are a great source of info here.
 
   / Trying to contact RonMar #15  
That helps me make a decision. I now understand why Ron had to go horizontal with the 8 in. long filter he used since the sump on the tractor is only about 5 in. deep. I'll find an aftermarket filter that will work. You never said anything about Ron. Do you know if he's still around? He was a great source of info on this site. Thanks for all your help. You too are a great source of info here.
Never met Ron, although we were "friends" in this forum I didn't know much about him. He was always very cordial, and very knowledgeable about Jinmas and their individual components. I think he may have been a retired engineer. He lives about 40 miles from me in Port Angeles, WA. Don't know of anyone in the forum that has met him personally. Hope he is ok.
 
   / Trying to contact RonMar #16  
The metal screen in my 2006 Jinma 284 was very fragile and I tore a hole in it the first time I tried to clean it. Desperate for something to use I found a paper filter that I could rig up to fit the suction pipe from the original screen. It had way more surface area than the screen but it was so much finer it actually restricted flow. Worked pretty good in the summer but when the fluid got cold it really stressed the pump until I could get it warmed up properly.
Eventually I went back to the OEM screen. Someday I may look into re-plumbing the rear facing Hydraulic ports so that I can tap fluid off the bottom of the sump on the right side and run it though a spin on arraignment of some sort. It will mean messing with fittings, hoses and adapters until I get what I want. There always seems to be something more pressing that needs to be done.
Since the right side rocker shaft seal decided to start leaking this summer, I may get into the hydraulics sooner than I thought....
 
   / Trying to contact RonMar
  • Thread Starter
#18  
The metal screen in my 2006 Jinma 284 was very fragile and I tore a hole in it the first time I tried to clean it. Desperate for something to use I found a paper filter that I could rig up to fit the suction pipe from the original screen. It had way more surface area than the screen but it was so much finer it actually restricted flow. Worked pretty good in the summer but when the fluid got cold it really stressed the pump until I could get it warmed up properly.
Eventually I went back to the OEM screen. Someday I may look into re-plumbing the rear facing Hydraulic ports so that I can tap fluid off the bottom of the sump on the right side and run it though a spin on arraignment of some sort. It will mean messing with fittings, hoses and adapters until I get what I want. There always seems to be something more pressing that needs to be done.
Since the right side rocker shaft seal decided to start leaking this summer, I may get into the hydraulics sooner than I thought.


The metal screen in my 2006 Jinma 284 was very fragile and I tore a hole in it the first time I tried to clean it. Desperate for something to use I found a paper filter that I could rig up to fit the suction pipe from the original screen. It had way more surface area than the screen but it was so much finer it actually restricted flow. Worked pretty good in the summer but when the fluid got cold it really stressed the pump until I could get it warmed up properly.
Eventually I went back to the OEM screen. Someday I may look into re-plumbing the rear facing Hydraulic ports so that I can tap fluid off the bottom of the sump on the right side and run it though a spin on arraignment of some sort. It will mean messing with fittings, hoses and adapters until I get what I want. There always seems to be something more pressing that needs to be done.
Since the right side rocker shaft seal decided to start leaking this summer, I may get into the hydraulics sooner than I thought....
I haven't finished replacing the hydraulic filter on my 2005 Jinma 284 yet BUT I did discover something that should reduce the cost. On my assembly I was able to remove the filter element only and purchase just that part. It looked like some kind of glue was used to attache the top cap to the tube. Just break that seal, remove the bolt on the lower cap and remove the old element. I haven't purchased an aftermarket element yet but don't think I'll have a problem finding one that will fit. The specs. for the element are: 100 mesh, height - 3 in. (it could go to 3 1/4 in.), diameter - 2 7/16" (this allows you to use the OEM top and bottom caps). After reassembly the unit should measure between 5 3/4 in. - 6 in. from the botton of the mounting flange to the bottom of the unit. Once I find an element to fit I'll edit this post.
 
   / Trying to contact RonMar #19  
Yup, that is what I did, except I couldn't find anything local that had a screen so used the paper filter element instead.
 
   / Trying to contact RonMar #20  
He has not been on the forum for 2 years:

 
 
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