It's a guess, but I'd say that there's too much clearance between the cutters and the fixed bar. Can you post photos of the grass not cut? Photos of the cutter assembly? Is the uncut grass always in the same place in relation to the cutter bar?
1993 NH 2120 (the best), 1974 MF 135 (sold, but solid), 1947 Farmall A (bought, sold, bought back, sold again), 1956 MH50 lbt (sold, in 1980, darn it)
I agree with Gary. Has anyone used a walk-behind sickle mower that worked? I've tried (not owned) Troy-bilt, Jari, Gravely, none worked worth a darn. Sharp or not, tight or not. Too bad since one would be useful here.
Jim
1993 NH 2120 (the best), 1974 MF 135 (sold, but solid), 1947 Farmall A (bought, sold, bought back, sold again), 1956 MH50 lbt (sold, in 1980, darn it)
That's true, they work best when the grass is tall and not too fine. Then the stems resist the forward pressure of the cutter bar long enough for the sections to cut em. No good on lawns or fine grass. YMMV
Jim
I used a Jari as a kid and it worked fine. You sometimes had to pound down the supports that held the moving cutters as they would loosen up. A 3 lb hammer worked well. It was used for tall grass about 3 times a summer. I think we had a National as well which was a nicer sickle bar mower
The best is BCS and it is expensive but it really works.
We had several of these mowers at work and used them for many years. The sickle bars kept breaking on every machine. That is the only problem we had with them. Probably why Troy-Built does not make them any more and replacement bars are no longer available.
I have a Troy built model also and it cuts weeds and brush great but does not cut grass well even if adjusted properly. There are two adjustments on the top bar that adjusts the clearance between the fixed lower bar and the moving top cutters. Each adjustment has 3 bolts, loosen the outside 2 bolts and then the clearance is adjusted with the center bolt. Make both sides match and then lock the outside bolts back down.