Transporting my Tractor

[dtmarion]

I just ordered 2 of the ratchet binders from Harbor Freight ($25ea for 9200lb). Shipping was dirt cheap. I bought some chain at a local trailer shop but found it much cheaper that night at Harbor Freight. Oh well, can't win them all.

Thanks for the tips!

PS I just ordered a 2" reciever adapter for my 3PT Hitch from a site called www.badriverinc.com I'll let you all know how I like it.

Thanks again.

Dan

 

[OkieG]

Brett,

Don't know about shipping. I live about 15 minutes from a Harbor Freight outlet. I picked them up in person.

I didn't know the chain was on sale when I went there today. I went to look at the rachet binders and the chain just happened to be right next to the binders. I was looking at the chain when a guy came up and asked, "Is that the chain that's on sale?" Heck, I didn't know. Turns out it was on sale and is the perfect compliment to the 5400# binders. When I went to the check out counter, with chain and binders in hand, the clerk said the binders were on sale, too. My lucky day!

OkieG

 

[OkieG]

Gary,

To secure my tractor to trailer, I use two chains, one in front and one in back. Each chain stretches from left to right and loops around something on the tractor that is fairly mid-line. One binder per chain. Could you elaborate on how to properly secure a load using two attachment points? I've just been trying to use common sense (a commodity in short supply), but have never had any pointers.

OkieG

 

[Gary_in_Indiana]

I'm not sure what you mean by left to right. I hope you're attaching opposite corners on your trailer (like right front and left rear). If you are, you ought to be ok.

I've seen equipment chained from the mid back to an attachment point on the left side of the trailer then looked at the front only to find a chain at the middle there running to an attachment point at the left side of the front of the trailer. At least that one will never slide off the right side of the trailer. /w3tcompact/icons/smile.gif

I still prefer the four point attachment with each axle near the wheel being on one end and the attachment points on the trailer being 3"-4" outside the attachment point on the axles and far enough away from the axle so the your chain or strap is at a 25-30 degree angle from the trailer floor to the axle.

 

[OkieG]

Gary,

I apologize if my descriptiion was unclear. The way I have been attaching chains is one chain at the front of the tractor and one in back. The one in front keeps the tractor from sliding backward and the one in back prevents forward motion.

One end of the chain in front will be hooked to a tie down point at the front left side of the trailer, then threaded around the bumper or through the stiffener pipe of the fel, finally hooked to another tiedown at the front right of the trailer. The rear chain is placed the same way, except, of course, at the rear of the trailer, threaded around a suitable part of the back of the tractor, with each end of the chain connected one to the left side of the trailer and the other to the right side of the trailer. Each of the two chains is tightened with a binder. Then, I set the parking brake on the tractor and away I go.

The right front to left rear tiedown technique doesn't register. Sorry for the confusion.

OkieG

 

[BrettW]

Hey,
I still need a trailer but I dont fancy those 16ft ones too much. Seem too long for my compact tractor that is about 10 ft long and weighs 2,000 lbs. Of course if it had a mower or other attachment on it, it might be just right. Any suggestions on the number of wheels/axles and GVW? thanks, brett w

 

[OkieG]

Brett,

You could probably do fine with a smaller trailer depending on what attachments you plan to bring with you. I haven't measured my tractor, but it weighs about 1800 lbs. as it comes from the factory. So, our tractors are probably similar in length.

Assuming our tractors ARE similarly sized, here is what I would consider when deciding on what size trailer to get:

1. A ONE axle trailer: My trailer is 16' and has two axles rated at 3500 lbs. each. The trailer weighs about 2000 lbs. (or so the trailer store tells me). I think 3500 lb. rated axles are fairly commonly used in trailers.

If you get a single axle trailer (rated for 3500#), short enough to just fit your tractor, a trailer weight of 1500 lbs. or a little less sounds ballpark. It should carry your tractor, but nothing more, due both to size and weight constraints. The only time I would have just my tractor on the trailer would be to take it somewhere to pick up an implement. Most of the time, in transport, there are already implements hanging, usually front and rear.

2. A TWO axle trailer: If you ever think you will transport an implement with your tractor, you will need more weight carrying capacity and possibly more length. Something like a post hole digger or MMM doesn't require much extra weight capacity or length, but many commomly used impements do need more.

With front loader and box blade in place, 16' is just right. With front loader and backhoe, 16' is right at the limit, and is almost too short (I like to rest the hoe bucket on the trailer). A 16' trailer will not seem too long once you start using it.

The weight of implements and the trailer length to accomodate them will require a second axle or you run the risk of seriously pushing or exceeding the ability of a single axle.

Lasly, even if you can comfortably get along with a shorter than 16', single axle trailer now, your needs could grow. The tractor can handle that growth, but the trailer couldn't.

Hope this helps. By the way, be sure and get brakes on your trailer. I was skeptical about the ability of an electric brake on one of my trailer axles, but not anymore. Traveling with a load is safer and it helps my peace of mind.

OkieG

 

[MossRoad]

To all:
Attached is a drawing of two different methods that I've heard described. One is four chains and the other is two chains. Which one do you use? Two chains or four chains. You might have to scroll down to see the second example.

 

[Bird]

Two chain method.

 

[OkieG]

Your drawing of "2 chain" depicts the way I do it.

OkieG

 

[Von]

MossRoad, I use two grade 70 5/16" chains and binders. See attached photo. Makes the tractor part of the trailer when snugged down!

 

[dtmarion]

That's what I needed to see! An actual picture of what it looks like. On the front, did you bolt on a hook of some sorts? On the back, what part of the tractor are you chainning to?

Thanks,

Dan

 

[Von]

Dan, I drilled a 3/4" hole thru the front bumper and use a shackle for the front. On the rear I just use a shackle in the drawbar. Works good and no paint damage front or rear. I got some new ratcheting binders that work much better than the old style that I was using.

 

[Soundguy]

Big ditto on the trailer info. I bought my 16' trailer and never thought i would use 'all of it'. Now it is just barely big enough for my NH and brushmower.

2 axles are great.. and breaks are a must for this weight.

I got a decent break controller for 85 $ and had the trailer place install it for 45$.. works great!

Soundguy

 

[hosejockey2002]

Brett, I agree totally with OkieG. I have a little Yanmar 1401D that weighs less than 2000 lbs. with loader and attachments. I considered a single axle trailer but ended up with a 16' tandem axle. I bind it down with 3/8 chains and binders from Harbor Freight Tools. I could have gone with less, but for a few bucks more I can drive with a smile and know that my setup is "good to go" and will handle any type of driving conditions I may run into. And when and if I move up to a bigger tractor my trailer will handle it, unless I get something huge.

 

[BrettW]

Thanks guys,
Looks like I'll be saying hello to Mr. 16 Footer!!! What about surge brakes?

 

[Bird]

<font color=blue>What about surge brakes?</font color=blue>

Personal opinion? They're better'n nuthin, I guess, but I'd go with electric brakes and put a controller on the tow car. The only times I can recall seeing, or using, surge brakes is on rental trailers (because the folks who rent them may not have a brake controller on their tow car) and heavy boat trailers (because they're going to be backed into water and that wouldn't be good for electric brakes).

 

[em14]

Do yourself a gaint favor and use electric brakes ... surge brakes only work well when the rig is going forward and don't work well when you are backing down the ramp to the water to unload your boat ... certainly one of the times you might need them ... I use my trailer for long trips (350 miles one way) about every couple of months or so ... it's a 18 ft 5 ton equipment trailer and usally loaded close to the gross. I'm driving on Interstates , 2 lane highways and small country roads and I am very comfortable with the electric brakes .. and I'm pulling all this quite well with a Chevie Sliverado 1500 ... In other words, I think you will like electrics better ...

 

[kevincook]

How can you tow a 10 ton trailer with a 1/2 ton pickup? Even a 10,000 pound trailer will be over the rated capacity of that truck. 350 miles on the highway sounds dangerous...please be careful. BTW, it sounds like a good excuse for a new truck /w3tcompact/icons/grin.gif.

 

[kevincook]

<font color=blue>What about surge brakes?</font color=blue>

Go with electric brakes, you will have much better control.

If you try to back up a hill with surge brakes they will lock up and it is a real pain.