Re: Trailering my B2650 Tractor and Reccomended Tie-Downs
Just picked up a freshly built tandem 7000lb GVWR landscape trailer ... was wondering about tie-down chains / straps to use when transporting a compact tractor like the
B2650 with loader and box blade shown? ... any recommendations on how and with what to tie down a tractor of this type, fire away. I'd appreciate it.
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This is a widely interesting topic with hundreds or thousands of opinions. I'll throw my viewpoint in.
1) I feel I am protecting ME, my equipment and my liability. I actually do not give a rats butt what the DOT says. I care a lot more about me than they do. I do agree it is worth seeing what DOT says to learn from it. I have yet to meet the first police officer that is out to nitpick your tiedown. If it is solid and substantial looking you are VERY unlikely to hear grief from the police. If it looks really flimsy for the weight of the load, expect to hear about it. By the way, some people are all in a frenzy because"rules" exist that outlaw the old "over center" type chain tighteners and supposedly require lever and gear teeth type ratcheting chain tighteners. The guys using tractor trailers on big highways day in day out need to pay attention to that. You don't.
2) There is no need other than maybe convenience to add anything to your tractor. Run something solidly across your FEL and your 3pt hitch members and that is all you need.
3) The main object of tiedowns is to keep the load down on the trailer deck in all but the most severe collisions. Stories are endless. I once hit (went over) a 6" shelf like dropoff in a narrow country road due to a subterranean ground slip. I was towing a
B2150 Kubota at the time on a junk trailer doing maybe 45 mph. One good solid chain across the tractor middle/transmission. In the rearview mirror i saw it go up a few inches and come back down on the bed, staying there until I got stopped. No damage. No problem.
4) My main concern with tiedowns (esp with larger tractor,etc) is the one in back that keeps the thing from coming into the cab with me when I hit something head on. That's where I use the heavy chain. In front I use whatever is handy and any good wide web nylon strap ratchet is fine (though I use a chain there too if it is the 10,000 lb tractor.)
5) Don't let anyone kid you. If the accident is bad enough, if you get hit or hit another vehicle at 70 mph head on or nearly so (or hit a tree) your load and your trailer are going all over ****. That is spelled h with 3 other letters for the censors benefit. Tiedowns will only help minimize the damage and again the main thing is slow down the load before it enters your cab.
6) In your particular case wide strap ratchets are adequate in my view. If you expect to be in high speed traffic for longer periods add a chain in back. One of the dilemmas with the type trailer you show is the side rails are about the only thing handy to tie to. The rails are not real strong, tend to provide hard edges with which to damage or defeat straps, and lack solid places to hook a chain. I have been wanting to weld good tie points onto my 12' utility trailer for that reason. My larger 21' Pequea equipment trailer has a welded rub rail the entire length of the trailer that stands out a couple of inches and provides super strong tie points for both straps and chains.
Nice looking equipment. Good luck.
