Trailer selection....

/ Trailer selection.... #21  
Weight distribution hitches may be required after a certain trailer weight. In Canada I beleive it is 5000 Pounds.

Egon
 
/ Trailer selection.... #22  
edski - wow, you won't have any trouble moving your 7610 with that trailer! In my area, I found the TopBrand, Star and EconoTrailer lines. TopBrand had brakes on both axles and was the best build quality IMO. I particularly liked 82" between the fenders, stake pockets with rubrails, and the underbody 3-way ramps with built-in support. The icing on the cake... price was reasonable enough to justify new! I ordered the 7000lb 18' beavertail for $1925 which should be plenty sufficient for my needs. The 10,000lb here was about $1k more too IIRC, but the checkbook had the final word! Probably end up selling my 14' Triton Alum. tandem to help pay for it, won't need both. /forums/images/graemlins/tongue.gif

[edit] My definition: A wrap around tongue extends all the way back to front axle, below the top deck framing, in essence giving 2 front stacked channel iron frames. Much stronger.
 
/ Trailer selection.... #23  
I would make sure that I had a LEAST single axle brakes (currently what I have) but for emergency braking issues, brakes on all axles are best. (NO WAY would I want to tow that much weight without any brakes.) Check here for Brake Laws of different states. As for weight distributing hitches I use one and will not tow without it. Some manufactures (GM I know of) heavy duty models can tow up to 7000lbs without weight distribution hitches,(uses a class IV hitch) but I would still recommend them. (I have noticed less sway and better steering with the weight bars on).

I currently use a 16' (14' flat- 2'dovetail) trailer that my Kioti CK20 takes up the full lenght of with loader and bucket (see attached). I was looking for an 18footer but got a dael that I could not pass up.

You will notice in the picture where on the front part of the trailer where it says JTI and phone number that is what I was told was a wrap around hitch. Some end where it continues back the side. (You will also notice the WD hitch on the left side of the picture.)

Kurt
 

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/ Trailer selection.... #24  
I have a couple of travel trailers and both have WD hitches with sway bar. I plan to install the same on my haulin trailer in the not too distant future (when there's $300-400 burnin a hole in my pocket). If I still drove a half ton P/U I'd of installed it 1st thing. Makes a big difference in comfort level, confidence and safety.
 
/ Trailer selection.... #25  
dholly is right,that is what a wrap around tongue is,another thing to watch for is some trailers will have used car tires on it,might be alright for some but if your haulin vary much or your planning on pulling the trailer a great distance,I would try to find a trailer that has a regular trailer tire on it,I think they are designed different than a car tire,crank down jacks mounted on the rear are nice if your loading something heavy,I think a small dove is nice,don't really know why a small dove makes a difference just seems to make it nicer loading,Another thing to look at is wiring,I don't know how many trailers that I've had to rewire because of a shotty job,hate those little quick wire clips,we always use horse shoe clamps and shrink tubes.
And always try to get your trailer to set level when hooked to your truck,it will pull better if it is.
 
/ Trailer selection.... #26  
Kab, I do a lot of travel trailer towing and those WD bars aren't set up right. You need to tilt the head of the hitch so that the bars sit parallel to the ground. This will also mean you need to leave less links hanging.
 
/ Trailer selection.... #27  
Never towed a trailer but another option not mentioned would be an aluminum trailer. Go to www.tritontrailer.com and look at their UT-16 double axle trailer. The capacity is 7000# and the trailer weighs a little over 1,000 #. You can get electric breaks on both axles. Looks well built and you do not have to worry about it rusting if kept outdoors. I am considering this trailer for my BX23.
 
/ Trailer selection.... #29  
The angle of the hitch has been changed since the photo was taken. This is the heaviest package that Valley hitches makes. I could have stepped down about 2-3 levels but for the price difference and what was available when I was ready to buy. (Had to much weight on the back of the vehicle). I have 2 different vehicles that I will be towing with this year so I am having to make some adjustments to accomodate both vehicles. (the second vehicle will only be used for 2 or 3 trips and is actually probably a better vehicle for towing this but it's the wife's /forums/images/graemlins/crazy.gif)


Kurt
 
/ Trailer selection.... #30  
I would get a trailer with a dove tail. After having messed around with ramps and getting them set right and then going to this I will never go back. My trailer is a 18' 7000 lb tandem car hauler with a dovetail. The back is only about 1 foot off of the ground. I approach the trailer slowly and can drive right on without ramps. I do commercial work so am unloading and loading several times a day and it makes it much easier and quicker. Also no ramps to worry about tearing up or losing. My trailer is a bit small for my tractor as I am right at 7000lb if you take into account the weight of the trailer but it is working fine.
 
/ Trailer selection.... #31  
Dovetails do make for easier loading, but may not be the best choice if you live in a hilly area. Both my previous 16' and my current 18' have dovetails, ending about a foot off the ground. The only problem is that the departure angle is terrible, and I live on a hill. I decided that the trade off was worth it, but scraping the tail every time I go in or out of the driveway does get annoying. One more factor to consider...
 
/ Trailer selection.... #32  
That is true. It is flat as a pankake around here. I sure would not do without a dovetail as it has spoiled me. The other day I had to till a gardend that was about 25x50 for a lady. I was just curious how long it would take so I started the timer when I stopped my truck. I unchained and unloaded the tractor, tilled the garden, collected my $$, loaded and secured the tractor with 4 chains and boomers and was back in my truck driving away 21 minutes later. It seems like I have spent taht much time messing around with ramps on other trailers.
 
/ Trailer selection.... #33  
</font><font color="blue" class="small">( I would get a trailer with a dove tail. After having messed around with ramps and getting them set right and then going to this I will never go back. My trailer is a 18' 7000 lb tandem car hauler with a dovetail. The back is only about 1 foot off of the ground. I approach the trailer slowly and can drive right on without ramps. I do commercial work so am unloading and loading several times a day and it makes it much easier and quicker. Also no ramps to worry about tearing up or losing. My trailer is a bit small for my tractor as I am right at 7000lb if you take into account the weight of the trailer but it is working fine. )</font>

You think my ck30 would just drive up onto a dovetail? Sounds nice!
 

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