Trailer question

[Mowbizz]

What size trailer for a Bx-24?

I have a BX24 also and I just bought a 6'2" x 12' EZ Dumper 10k trailer. I am tickled pink about the way the BX fits into the trailer. I drive into the trailer and the bucket rests on the front wall of the dump bed while the backhoe dangles (pinned, of course) perfectly over the barn door style tailgates. I will try to get some pics next time it's loaded up in the trailer. This way I have a dedicated trailer for the BX and the dump trailer to use all year long for whatever comes up.

 

[HVACDIESEL]

Thanks for all the good info.Hopefully I can squeeze on my 10' dump trailer.

 

[check]

There is a guy here saying he hauled his BX25 on a 10 foot trailer.

Yes, that's mew - will bring back a photo from the cottage after this weekend (which is Canadian Thanksgiving).

BTW, I will be buying trailer brakes for only about $300 (plus some wiring) from Princess Auto here in Torontothis week, which will up the GVWR to 3,500 lbs. This will be more than enough for the BX25, and one or more extra implements when I get them.

 

[KeithInSpace]

...buying trailer brakes...which will up the GVWR to 3,500 lbs.

Don't doubt you, but I get confused easily. How does adding brakes increase the capacity of a trailer?

Common theme is that trailers UNDER 3,000# or 3,500# capacity (depending on state) don't require brakes. Similarly, adding brakes to a trailer would not necessarilly increase the weight rating, which is permenantly affixed to the trailer frame and to the trailer title. At least not without some serious wrangling with the DOT.

Thought weight rating of trailers were more driven by axle and, most importantly, tire capacity than the presense of brakes.

Perhaps it's different in the tundra of Canada...tires are blocks of ice anyway...

Kidding.

I am curious, though, as to the thought process.

 

[check]

Don't doubt you, but I get confused easily. How does adding brakes increase the capacity of a trailer?

Common theme is that trailers UNDER 3,000# or 3,500# capacity (depending on state) don't require brakes. Similarly, adding brakes to a trailer would not necessarilly increase the weight rating, which is permenantly affixed to the trailer frame and to the trailer title. At least not without some serious wrangling with the DOT.

Thought weight rating of trailers were more driven by axle and, most importantly, tire capacity than the presense of brakes.

Perhaps it's different in the tundra of Canada...tires are blocks of ice anyway...

Kidding.

I am curious, though, as to the thought process.

The trailer was made with a 3500 lb. axle - the next size down is 2,000 lb. however, they could not rate it for 3500 because there were no brakes. (In Ontario you must have brakes for anything over 3,000 lb.) Today I went and picked up the brakes (actually, I bought the whole 3500 lb. axle assembly for $349, leaving me with a spare axle afterward), and will be installing probably this weekend. So now, for a $1300 price, plus $350 for brakes, I have a 3500 lb. GAWR trailer, which I was told would cost about $2500 today (since steel went up a lot in the last year).

Meanwhile, I have a trailer I can move around by hand, and yet it will carry my tractor safely!

I have attached a photo of the new BX25, just after it was loaded on the trailer after we bought it. As you can see, it fit on the 5' X 10' trailer quite nicely, and with the extended receiver hitch, there was enough clearance in front of the FEL so that the truck would not be scratched when turning a corner. As well, the trailer os low, which keeps the center of gravity low, and thus it was very stable on the road. (We just went a little ways, to my cottage, but it felt very good with my F150 as the tow vehicle.)

 

[check]

The trailer was made with a 3500 lb. axle - the next size down is 2,000 lb. however, they could not rate it for 3500 because there were no brakes. (In Ontario you must have brakes for anything over 3,000 lb.) Today I went and picked up the brakes (actually, I bought the whole 3500 lb. axle assembly for $349, leaving me with a spare axle afterward), and will be installing probably this weekend. So now, for a $1300 price, plus $350 for brakes, I have a 3500 lb. GAWR trailer, which I was told would cost about $2500 today (since steel went up a lot in the last year).

Meanwhile, I have a trailer I can move around by hand, and yet it will carry my tractor safely!

I have attached a photo of the new BX25, just after it was loaded on the trailer after we bought it. As you can see, it fit on the 5' X 10' trailer quite nicely, and with the extended receiver hitch, there was enough clearance in front of the FEL so that the truck would not be scratched when turning a corner. As well, the trailer os low, which keeps the center of gravity low, and thus it was very stable on the road. (We just went a little ways, to my cottage, but it felt very good with my F150 as the tow vehicle.)

Sorry, can't seem to post an attachment - will check it out and try again later.

 

[check]

Thanks for all the good info.Hopefully I can squeeze on my 10' dump trailer.

OKay, so here's how I fit my BX25 on a 5' X 10' trailer, with room to spare for the ramps.

 

[RobJ]

Perfect example Check of thats all you really need. Since most of the BX models have a bellymower, no problem there. And if you had something else, you can always put it in the back of the truck.

And you are also right that it's noce to have a trailer that you can move by hand or ATV. Tandom axle trailers can't really be moved by hand.

 

[KeithInSpace]

OKay, so here's how I fit my BX25 on a 5' X 10' trailer, with room to spare for the ramps.

Yup...that's about how I remember it fitting in my 5' x 10' 3,500# trailer.

Not that it isn't great and all...I do remember being able to shove around my old trailer by hand (an absolutely impossible thought with my big trailer,as Mr. RobJ points out)...but seeing that picture absolutely reminds me of why I got the 20' long trailer.

At least you have brakes...that's a big plus. And having the dump is wonderful. I'd have to take two trips to the dealership to have my mower deck serviced...that was a pain. And I never figured a way to make the trailer feel "good" behind my truck (2005 Expedition) with the tractor loaded. Wandered too much. Tires were too "squished".

Looks like you have a 5 foot long draw-bar on your truck (I'm exagerating, but that sucker has got to be at least 2 feet long...), maybe that helps with the "feel"...funny, though. I never had a problem with the possibility of scratching the truck. When I got my backhoe, I'd load it the other way, though. Seemed to load my tongue better than FEL first.

Dunno. It's just me, but I just wasn't comfortable towing my $20,000 machine on a trailer that 'just made it'. As nice as yours looks and all.

I'm just a fan of the safety factor...150%...towing a 3,000# machine means I MUST have a trailer capable of being loaded with 5,000# of payload...add the trailer weight and you are right there at 7,000# every time. And you get two whole entire extra tires added to the mix to boot.

 

[MarkV]

Not to criticize any of the creative ways some are hauling their tractors but many of them would not pass a DOT stop. To be totally in compliance when hauling a TLB both the loader and backhoe bucket must rest on the bed of the trailer and have their own chain, not strap, restraint. The tractor itself must be chained to four points.

DOT focuses on commercial users for the most part and let a lot of us home owners get a way with some violations. They do have the right to check and ticket anyone hauling a trailer and they do here at times. If you want to follow the letter of the law there is no way you can haul a BX on a 10’ trailer and meet the standards.

MarkV