HVACDIESEL
New member
- Joined
- Sep 28, 2008
- Messages
- 17
What size trailer for a Bx-24?
Trailer question
- Thread starter HVACDIESEL
- Start date
- Views: 6171
NuBota
Gold Member
I wouldn't go smaller than 16' - I went 18'
LBrown59
Super Star Member
- Joined
- Oct 27, 2004
- Messages
- 16,904
- Tractor
- 2003 Kubota BX1500/2004 Kubota Bx23/2005 Kubota BX1500
Bird
Rest in Peace
First question would be whether you're talking about a trailer to haul the tractor, or whether you're talking about a trailer to pull with the tractor.
The second question would be whether or not you ever intend to haul the tractor with any implement attached on the rear (or front for that matter) and if so, what implements? How long? How heavy?
The second question would be whether or not you ever intend to haul the tractor with any implement attached on the rear (or front for that matter) and if so, what implements? How long? How heavy?
radioman
Super Member
bird has good points here. however , you need to keep in mind of the weight of the BX24. to tow a BX24 you will need at least dual Axel trailer with 7k rating. If you get a single Axel trailer and 10 footer, i think it pretty much too small and underrated. if you need a trailer to carry stuff behind the BX- i would say a 4 ft wide by whatever long you make it is a good size for the BX. make sense ? unless you already have a trailer laying around to use.
unless you already have a trailer laying around to use.
KeithInSpace
Veteran Member
I used to own a 10' 3,500# trailer and transported my machine short distances on it. Scary. Don't do that.
I now own a 20' dovetail (18' flat deck) and it is GREAT. The tractor fits perfect and I have extra room in the front for whatever I want.
The DOWNSIDE to a 20' trailer: When loaded with heavy material (5,000# and up) you can only load over the trailer wheels...the front 4 feet are essentially empty. Loading the "front" of the trailer results in way too much weight on the ball since the wheels of a 20' trailer are set back a bit. So to unload, I ultimately need to "push" the last 20% of the material toward the front of the trailer to get it all in the bucket. Not a big deal, just an odd little neuance of a long trailer.
If you have no intentions of carrying anything else with your tractor (blades, ATVs, PHDs, or any other tools), I'd get a 16'. It is long enough for the tractor and has the wheels centered in the bed, so you can load the whole thing.
If you plan on carrying other implements, get the 20'. It's great. Just a little funky to unload, but it isn't that big of a deal...another 5 minutes added to the task.
Dual axle is imperative. 7,000# bare minimum, but I absoultely adore my 10,000# weight rating. If your truck can handle it, I think it is a good buy. For me, it is the difference between taking 2 trips to bring home 13,000# of stone vs. three trips. And the added pain of unloading a third time. And when I buy my pavers, each pallet is 3,000#, so I can get two pallets home at a time instead of just one...my project will take 4 pallets, so I can do it in 2 trips instead of 4. Then there's the sand...
Another thing is that the fold-down ramps are very robust. I've seen 7,000# trailers with the slide out ramps, but when off loading stone at 500# a shot (plus the weight of the tractor), I'd think those flat ramps to be a little Mickey Mouse. There have been posts of them bending under the weight of larger tractors.
Summary (based on my experience):
Dual axle. 7k rating, but 10k very desireable. 16' minimum, but 20' really nice. 6' bare minimum width, 7' is very nice. 8' wide is nicer still, but the wheels are so much wider than the tow vehicle at that point that it may be cumbersome.
I now own a 20' dovetail (18' flat deck) and it is GREAT. The tractor fits perfect and I have extra room in the front for whatever I want.
The DOWNSIDE to a 20' trailer: When loaded with heavy material (5,000# and up) you can only load over the trailer wheels...the front 4 feet are essentially empty. Loading the "front" of the trailer results in way too much weight on the ball since the wheels of a 20' trailer are set back a bit. So to unload, I ultimately need to "push" the last 20% of the material toward the front of the trailer to get it all in the bucket. Not a big deal, just an odd little neuance of a long trailer.
If you have no intentions of carrying anything else with your tractor (blades, ATVs, PHDs, or any other tools), I'd get a 16'. It is long enough for the tractor and has the wheels centered in the bed, so you can load the whole thing.
If you plan on carrying other implements, get the 20'. It's great. Just a little funky to unload, but it isn't that big of a deal...another 5 minutes added to the task.
Dual axle is imperative. 7,000# bare minimum, but I absoultely adore my 10,000# weight rating. If your truck can handle it, I think it is a good buy. For me, it is the difference between taking 2 trips to bring home 13,000# of stone vs. three trips. And the added pain of unloading a third time. And when I buy my pavers, each pallet is 3,000#, so I can get two pallets home at a time instead of just one...my project will take 4 pallets, so I can do it in 2 trips instead of 4. Then there's the sand...
Another thing is that the fold-down ramps are very robust. I've seen 7,000# trailers with the slide out ramps, but when off loading stone at 500# a shot (plus the weight of the tractor), I'd think those flat ramps to be a little Mickey Mouse. There have been posts of them bending under the weight of larger tractors.
Summary (based on my experience):
Dual axle. 7k rating, but 10k very desireable. 16' minimum, but 20' really nice. 6' bare minimum width, 7' is very nice. 8' wide is nicer still, but the wheels are so much wider than the tow vehicle at that point that it may be cumbersome.
KeithInSpace
Veteran Member
I'd do that only if it was the bald tractor. No FEL, no MMM, no BH, no other implements mounted or on the tractor.
But then, what's the point?
LBrown59
Super Star Member
- Joined
- Oct 27, 2004
- Messages
- 16,904
- Tractor
- 2003 Kubota BX1500/2004 Kubota Bx23/2005 Kubota BX1500
Good post now what to you pull the trailer with?
skipperbrown
Platinum Member
- Joined
- Apr 1, 2002
- Messages
- 678
- Location
- Pensacola Fl, Birchwood TN
- Tractor
- Kubota b2650, bx2200, L3940 (gone), New Holland FWD TN85, RTV 900
I use a 18x6' dual axle (3500lb each axle) to carry my bx2200. With the bucket curled and a 5' cutter on the back, it will barely fit. As noted above this puts considerable weight on the hitch probably maxing out the 500 lb tongue max. The 7000 max rating works good w/ this combo. With a 16', the bucket would need to sit above the front rail.
I'd to w/ a 16 to 18' foot w/ 6' width.
I'd to w/ a 16 to 18' foot w/ 6' width.
LBrown59
Super Star Member
- Joined
- Oct 27, 2004
- Messages
- 16,904
- Tractor
- 2003 Kubota BX1500/2004 Kubota Bx23/2005 Kubota BX1500
You pretty well covered the trailer aspect=now what about the tow vehicle?bird has good points here. however , you need to keep in mind of the weight of the BX24. to tow a BX24 you will need at least dual Axel trailer with 7k rating. If you get a single Axel trailer and 10 footer, i think it pretty much too small and underrated. if you need a trailer to carry stuff behind the BX- i would say a 4 ft wide by whatever long you make it is a good size for the BX. make sense ?
I just read on here about a guy who hauled his new BX 25 home from the dealer on his 10 foot trailer.
I would say since it was a new tractor he hauled it with the FEL and BH on it.
KeithInSpace
Veteran Member
2005 Ford Expedition Eddie Bauer 4X4 with tow package (pre-wire, trans radiator, bigger main radiator) and factory installed lower gear ratios for tow capacity of 9,000# with the use of a weight distribution hitch (which I use). Tekonsha P3 brake controller.
I've pulled my tractor (with FEL, BH, and Box Blade) over 200 miles like butter. I've made local trips with 6,000# to 7,000# of material with no drama. Braking is great. Acceleration could be better with a 6,500# load (+2,000# trailer weight), but I'm not complaining...keep up with traffic fine, just not a jackrabbit off the line. Still get 12+ MPG the whole time.
KeithInSpace
Veteran Member
I did the same when I had my BH installed (had FEL installed to weigh down the front).
Possible in a bind, but certainly not recommended. Not a long-term solution.
More than the length limitations, which are extreme, these are the issues I observed:
1) No brakes. Not good.
2) Single tires "squat" under weight and cause the entire trailer to "roll" too much. Accentuated with high COG of tractor. Most uncomfortable on crowned roads.
3) Little recovery if a tire blows.
Not that I wouldn't load the heck out of my little trailer...I'd load it to capacity with bags of QuickCrete regularly and have ALL the same concerns/issues. Something about putting my $20,000 tractor on it that made me a bit more uncomfortable with the limitations.
RobJ
Elite Member
OP
HVACDIESEL
New member
- Joined
- Sep 28, 2008
- Messages
- 17
I guess I should have been more specific.I need a trailer for my truck to tow my possible Bx-24. I am covered with both my trucks as far as tow rating. My brother has a 6.5'x10' Dual axle Dump trailer. I am wondering if that will do the deed for short 15-30 minute trips from my house to his.
radioman
Super Member
lbrown- i guess i already answered your question on tow vehicle in the BX25 post . http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/kubota-owning-operating/127268-another-new-kubota-bx25.html .
HVAC diesel- i suspect the dump trailer would do fine since i have seen someone tow a similar size tractor that is john Deere in a dump trailer with the loader up high over the front wall of trailer going by my house. it looked like a 10 footer dump trailer as well. how often are you planning on do this anyway . you said trips ? if you are going to tow your BX often , why not get a flatbed trailer. you would have one for towing BX and other for material work on dump trailer.
HVAC diesel- i suspect the dump trailer would do fine since i have seen someone tow a similar size tractor that is john Deere in a dump trailer with the loader up high over the front wall of trailer going by my house. it looked like a 10 footer dump trailer as well. how often are you planning on do this anyway . you said trips ? if you are going to tow your BX often , why not get a flatbed trailer. you would have one for towing BX and other for material work on dump trailer.
KeithInSpace
Veteran Member
Mr. Coreshot's setup is nice with the deck-over-wheels configuration. The 18 foot flatbed has about the same room as my 20 foot dovetail...I just have a little extra space to set extra ramps or the BH bucket in a bind. Curious: Do the side rails fold down to allow side-loading of the ATV or do you shove it into the sideways position?
Regarding the 10' dual axle dump trailer:
I think that would work OK for short trips. I'm sure it has brakes and it obviously has 4 tires vs. two, nixing two of the major issues typical to shorter trailers.
When I loaded on the 10' trailer, I would back it on with the backhoe fully curled and swung to one side and back up as much as I could. I'd have the FEL hanging over the "cheesegrater" tailgate...I'd actually strap it to the tailgate. I tried loading it forward, but the BH was so heavy, I had to pull the front wheels to the front of the trailer, driving the FEL into the back of the truck (thankfully, no I didn't ACTUALLY drive the FEL into the truck). I would not recommend driving around with the FEL raised, either...bleed-down and all.
Back it on the 10 footer and give it a shot. I think it may actually fit OK.
Regarding the 10' dual axle dump trailer:
I think that would work OK for short trips. I'm sure it has brakes and it obviously has 4 tires vs. two, nixing two of the major issues typical to shorter trailers.
When I loaded on the 10' trailer, I would back it on with the backhoe fully curled and swung to one side and back up as much as I could. I'd have the FEL hanging over the "cheesegrater" tailgate...I'd actually strap it to the tailgate. I tried loading it forward, but the BH was so heavy, I had to pull the front wheels to the front of the trailer, driving the FEL into the back of the truck (thankfully, no I didn't ACTUALLY drive the FEL into the truck). I would not recommend driving around with the FEL raised, either...bleed-down and all.
Back it on the 10 footer and give it a shot. I think it may actually fit OK.
RobJ
Elite Member
I certainly would use it, don't have to buy/store another trailer. Mine sits back in the woods up at the country, out of sight, out of the way. When you get right down to it, most guys here that are not running a commercial business have a big fancy trailer that they don't use that much to haul their tractor. Maybe a bit more if they haul it between home and a weekend place. I only need my tractor in town a couple times a year to clean up around the area clubhouse. I could borrow or rent and come out better in the long run, but I wanted to make my own.
Sides do come off, makes a good float to!
Attachments
I have to turn it sideways, but only if I am hauling the tractor also. Normally, I have 5 ATVs- 3 kid sized units that all fit across the front, and 2 Banshees that pull up behind them. This leaves room for 2 additional full size ATVs on the rear. I plan on purchasing a UTV in the near future, at which time I will modify the rail on one side to accept a side loading. The trailer is a full 8' wide inside the rails, so when turning the ATV sideways you don't have to lift it over the rail, it just slides around.
