trailer design

[ktm250rider]

I cant seem to find the trailer Im looking for. Id like a 5x10 with a load rating of 6-7000 lbs. The only ones I found in that load size are dump trailers which are out of my price range. The ones that are 5x10 are only good for 2000lbs. I got a quote for some C5x9 steel from my local supplier and the cost was a lot less than I thought. Figure, why not build one and get what I want. The question is, do I go with a single or double axle design? I can get 3500lb axles locally but a 7000lb would have to be ordered. Is there any advantage or disadvantage to going with a double axle.

 

[joes_427_vette]

I'm at the same crossing. 12k dump trailers are above five thousand so I am collecting parts to build one. I have the channel iron in stock for the frame which was only thirty cents a pound. The metal I can have bent up locally for two hundred. A neighbor gave me a cylinder and lift mechanism from a five yard gravel box. Still looking for the correct heavy duty axles.
I am going with two axles and a 10-12' body mostly for usage in uneven ground ( in the woods ). I want the floor heavy enough to withstand carrying rocks ( basket ball size and smaller ) as I have alot of them to move.
I think this trailer can be built for 2500 to 3000. and my specifications. Some of the trailers I have looked at seem a little lite in the steel department for my application.

 

[tommu56]

I'v built 5 trailers still have 2 of them (always wanting some thing different) and sell them and build another.

A tandem axle will tow better hands down I wouldn't even think of a single in that weight class.

I am in the same boat contemplating a build I want somethng 16' long dump and don't need 14,000 lbs only 5' wide (BX23) so 7- 10,000 would do one local said he would build it we didn't get in to price yet but in the spring I will be talking to him again.
tom

 

[LD1]

What are you wanting to do with the trailer that it needs to be that heavy and yet so small??

The advantages of a tandem axle are better weight distribution and less weight on the tongue/hitch. They are just a littlemore complex to build.

But why the small trailer?? Why not go a little bigger like a car trailer. Even if you build, can you build a little bigger like a 7x18. It will no doubt have better resale if you ever decide to sell it.

Another option I would look at would be to price skid steer trailers. They are usually built heavy and smaller cause skid steers are heavy and dont take up much room. I have seen the as small as 6x12 @ the weight you want. The only problem is they usually dont ahve a flat deck. They just have runners for the wheels. But it may be cheaper for you to buy one of these and modify the deck. I have seen SS trailers arond here locally for ~800. IF you build, a pair of axles/springs/wheels/tires is goig to set you 500-600.

 

[pat32rf]

A 5x10 dump trailer sounds like an ideal size. Small enough to maneuver in the bush or garage, yet with enough weight rating to carry a decent load of dirt. (or the tractor) Those big dumps may be great if you haul firewood down the highway but I'd hate to be moving dirt from my pondsite up the trail to my house, or around some of my bush trails...

 

[tree grower]

LD1-- I can picture a skidsteer trailer such as you describe, but never actually seen one. Is the $800 price for a used one? What are some brand names or dealerships that I can research on the web .

I have a book entitled Trailers: How to Design and Build by MM Smith that is long on theory and caution, but short on design standards. There should be some industry standards which correlate trailer dimensions, tongue length, and axle placement. Where would I find these ?

 

[LD1]

yes 800 is used

 

[tommu56]

LD1-- I can picture a skidsteer trailer such as you describe, but never actually seen one. Is the $800 price for a used one? What are some brand names or dealerships that I can research on the web .

I have a book entitled Trailers: How to Design and Build by MM Smith that is long on theory and caution, but short on design standards. There should be some industry standards which correlate trailer dimensions, tongue length, and axle placement. Where would I find these ?

I got the same book a waste of money.
I check out trailer lots to come up with rough dimensions of what I want
then morph in to what I need and built it.

 

[dts1449]

I did some research last year and saved a few items I found useful. This link is titled around Homemade Boat Trailers but much of the design aspects can be applied to building any kind of trailer.

Duckworks

This link I kept because it had decent information about wiring and connectors. It also has some links that may give you some ideas.

Trailer Wiring Diagrams | etrailer.com

And if you'd like to know about federal tie-down regs:

Cargo Securement Rules - Federal Motor Carrier Safety Administration

I thought I had more but I guess not. Hope you find something useful here. -Dave

 

[ktm250rider]

5x10 dump would be perfect, just too expensive. I figure with a 6000lb 5x10, ill have little chance of pulling to big of a load because im size limited. Things add up fast when you start piling them on one at a time.

 

[Iplayfarmer]

I have referred to this site many time for reference as I've planned a few different trailers...
Free Trailer Plans

The best and simplest resource from that page is this one...
UTILITY TRAILER PARTS KITS

There's also a ton of good advice and info here on TBN in the trailers and transportation forum. Any given week there are a few trailer builds going on, and the archives have a wealth of information.

 

[Verticaltrx]

Maybe I missed it, but is this going to be a dump trailer or not? If it is not I don't see why you need such a high load capacity.

I'm building a 5x10 utility trailer right now, 3500lb payload capacity, single axle. I'm building it like a standard utility trailer, but using heavier material and a stronger tongue. I'm also moving the axle back a little further than normal to provide more tongue weight and load capacity. I'll be using it behind my tractors for hauling posts and fire wood, and it will also be big enough to haul my B3200 in a pinch.

 

[Gary Sweat]

Here's a trailer I built about 10 years ago. It's a 5x10 with a 3500 lb axle. I have used it for just about everything from hauling my YM1900 down the highway to hauling rocks and cut up trees. I built it using square tubing. It won't flex from corner to corner like most will that are built out of channel or angle iron. I would recommend using square or rectangular tubing and gauge the wall thickness based on the weight you want to carry. If you are going with a 5x10 with a 7,000lb capacity, I would use tandem axles especially if you plan on dragging it around in the woods. They distribute the weight over a greater area of the frame. I've built a few other trailers and I have found especially on single axles, that it will tow best with the axle at 60 to 65% of the trailer length (not including the tongue). I also built a small 1 ton capacity jib crane that mounts on the tongue on the two channel pieces for picking up really heavy rocks and stumps. I set the outriggers and the two adjustable RV jacks and the trailer is really stable. The concrete slab you see on the rear of the trailer is 280lbs. I hauled 8 of these 75 miles down the freeway at 75mph and didn't break any of them due to the trailer not flexing. Everyone said they would be broke by the time I got home.

 

[doall]

good looking trailer Gary. Looks bought.

 

[pat32rf]

I kinda like a trailer with a balance point and tonque long enough to pick up by hand when empty (100lbs) so that its just that much easier to connect to the truck.
When I load it, then I can increase the tonque weight by load shifting....
Long and narrow versus short and fat......
Gotta have electric brakes on both axles though...

 

[LD1]

I kinda like a trailer with a balance point and tonque long enough to pick up by hand when empty (100lbs) so that its just that much easier to connect to the truck.
When I load it, then I can increase the tonque weight by load shifting....
Long and narrow versus short and fat......
Gotta have electric brakes on both axles though...

The only disadvantage to that is it wont tow very well when empty.

Our car trailer weighs 2700lbs empty. (Heavy old homemade trailer with true 2" thick oak planks)

With the fold up ramps on the back which weigh 150-200lbs each, there is very little tongue weight. You dont even need the jack, it is almost perfectally balanced. When it is empty and towed this way, it is a rough ride in the truck. With either a load on or the ramps off, it tows like a dream.

@ 2700lbs, it isn't bouncing all over or weaving, but the rough ride comes from not having enough preload on the trucks suspension. When you hit a bump, you can feel the tongue try to raise, and then feel the truck pulling it back down so to speak. So its more of a "hoppy" ride.

 

[David Devuono]

It sounds like you want to build a dump trailer, where will it be used, acreage, or mostly hwy? Will it be multi purpose or just for dirt. Whether it is a single axle or dual, it has to be loaded correctly for proper handling (proper tongue weight) If you need to manouver it around alot, dual axles are a bear to move around the driveway. A single axle with a wheel on the jack is much easier. Why not go with a single 6,000 lb axle. With a 1,000 lb trailer you could put 2 yards of gravel in it. I do not have a dump trailer but I have two single axle and one double. They all run straight, but thats because I take my trailer loading seriously. Of course if you have a pickup with a 1000lb rated hitch weight you can pile everything up front, but us Compact Sport Ute drivers need to manage our hitch weight.

 

[check]

I have a 5 X 10 that came with a 2,000 lb. axle, not enough for my 2700 lb. Kubota BX25, so I simply bought a 3500 lb. axle with brakes, and swapped axles. Works great! Anybody want a slightly used 2,000 lb. axle?

 

[easygo]

I have a 5 X 10 that came with a 2,000 lb. axle, not enough for my 2700 lb. Kubota BX25, so I simply bought a 3500 lb. axle with brakes, and swapped axles. Works great! Anybody want a slightly used 2,000 lb. axle?

I'd be careful of putting a #3500 axle under a trailer frame that may have been designed to ride on a #2000 axle. I mean the load capacity of the frame may be exceeded. On the other hand it might have been overbuilt and is all good. It would be a bad way to find out otherwise after you loose the BX25 on a highway.

 

[ktm250rider]

Trailer use will be mostly under the weight limit. Dump runs, building supplies, dirt bikes and snowmobiles will take up about 90% of the use. Scrounging free wood on craigslist will be the other 10%. I figure if Im building it, I might as well build it to carry what ever i might end up finding. I have a 4x8 that I use as a yard trailer since its not road worthy anymore. The size is pretty good, would just like a little bigger occasionally.
Thought about using square tube. I was concerned that any water that got inside would just cause it to rust. It seems a lot of the equipment trailers Ive seen are build out of C-channel.
Think Ive settled on a 6K lb single axle for simplicity and cost.
Now I just need time and steel!