Trailer decking

/ Trailer decking #22  
Well my 2001 18' dovetail trailer has finally started to show some age. The boards are starting to rot. I have done a search and see that the PT boards are not the way to go due to the corrosive properties of the treatment. So I was wondering if the untreated pine would work just as well. I would stain it with an oil based stain, but still not sure if it is strong enough. Any ideas of what wood would work best but not break the bank? I thought of going to the local sawmill but heard some stories about the price of oak right now. Any help would be appreciated, thanks.

They make them new out of PT wood.

Another thing Pt and Untreated are the same thing so if you feel PT is strong enough so will untreated.
 
/ Trailer decking #23  
The "NEW" PT lumber has corrosive chemecals in it. The older trailers that these guys are talking about were treated with CCA and the new pt is differint and the name escapes me right now but all of your fasteners need to be either stainless or double dipped galv. (at least in the building industry) Down there in west by god VA get some white oak or ash from the local mill.

The big one is ACQ (Amoniacal Copper Quart)
 
/ Trailer decking #24  
DND i would think that the more Cross members there fastened to the less of a shimy or flimsy feeling it would have. Mine is a lonewolf trailer like 2009 model. It is a lightweight 7K lb car hauler trailer, but does not shimy shake or anything. It will kind of bounce if i jump on the back corner of it, but it handles the tractor and 2-3 implements on it fine no bow or anything when loaded.
 
/ Trailer decking
  • Thread Starter
#25  
DND i would think that the more Cross members there fastened to the less of a shimy or flimsy feeling it would have. Mine is a lonewolf trailer like 2009 model. It is a lightweight 7K lb car hauler trailer, but does not shimy shake or anything. It will kind of bounce if i jump on the back corner of it, but it handles the tractor and 2-3 implements on it fine no bow or anything when loaded.

That is the same type trailer I have and bounces like yours when I jump on the corner.
 
/ Trailer decking #26  
DND i would think that the more Cross members there fastened to the less of a shimy or flimsy feeling it would have. Mine is a lonewolf trailer like 2009 model. It is a lightweight 7K lb car hauler trailer, but does not shimy shake or anything. It will kind of bounce if i jump on the back corner of it, but it handles the tractor and 2-3 implements on it fine no bow or anything when loaded.

Clemsonfor,
I don't think this trailer I have is a car hauler, it certainly not built like the 18 ft mustang I had before back when I mess around with hauling cars,
though the 16 ft I currently have is perfect for our CUT size tractor, I'm just a little concern with the webble wobbling it does from corner to corner, however when I load the tractor and drop the FEL & rear implements down to the deck and secure the tractor down to the frame the trailer becomes more rigid,
I was kinda wondering if someone might understand or know how to sturdy it up, Somehow I think when the tongue was replaced it contributed to this problem,
if it was a wooden house deck i would know how to add diagonal bracing, or a lateral brace from underneath, I just cant see as to how this would brace it up to stop the wobble it has,:cool:
I know if ever I have to replace all the boards I will certainly add some sort of steel bracing in the frame to better brace it up,
 
/ Trailer decking #28  
Yours is probably the #1 treatment, right?? I am kind of worried about trashing my c'members with the #2, more corrosive treatment. I may go with the treated boards if I could find some stainless strapping to cover the c'members with. I think the oak is much heavier isn't it?

I have no clue. I do know the new PT lumber is different but really can not answer your question. Sorry.

Chris
 
/ Trailer decking #29  
remember.. paint solves all the problems. paint and double dip or SS fasteners...

can't corrode what you can't get to.

asphalt fence paint is sold by the 5g bucket for about 20$... covers A whole LOT of square feet.. or just 'alot' of square feet with a couple coats.

soundguy
 
/ Trailer decking #30  
I thought of going to the local sawmill but heard some stories about the price of oak right now.

You have a trailer and if you have access to white oak logs take them to a mill or utilize a portable sawmill service. I've sawn trailer decking for myself and others; I charge $0.25/bf ft. That's less than $40 for decking a 6 x 16 trailer.
(This is not intended as an advertisement but a response to the quote.)
Bob
 
/ Trailer decking #32  
Some time ago I used rough cut white Ash for trailer boards. Very strong, but flexible wood. It does need to be treated though.
 
/ Trailer decking #33  
You have a trailer and if you have access to white oak logs take them to a mill or utilize a portable sawmill service. I've sawn trailer decking for myself and others; I charge $0.25/bf ft. That's less than $40 for decking a 6 x 16 trailer.
(This is not intended as an advertisement but a response to the quote.)
Bob

speaking of portable mills. anyone ever use those chainsaw mill rigs.

I've seen quite a few types.. some of the simple ones are pretty affordable.. looks ok for non-production work. IE.. just a guy cutting some rough for a deck.. etc.

soundguy
 
/ Trailer decking #34  
i have an 11 year old homemade trailer with a 16' deck. when i built it i went to a small local mill to see what he had that i could get reasonable. he was going to be sawing up some spruce very soon, so that's what i went with. i had it planed to 1 1/2" so if i ever needed to replace it i could just get off the shelf lumber for it.

i then went to a local surplus store (mardens) and bought two gallons of wood stain for $5/gallon and coated both sides until there was no stain left. i secured it to the trailer members with fastenal flooring screws: Flooring Screws | Fastenal

at the ten year point i pressure washed the top side of the deck and sprayed it with a couple coats of wood preservative. the trailer sits outdoors all the time and if i'm not using it, the snow stays piled on it until i have the need to remove it. there's no sign of any rot yet, and it never has any issue hauling whatever will fit between the fenders. the only precaution i take is that when i haul my father's jd420c i put some old boards down so the steel track doesn't damage the deck.

i think any treated wood would do well, especially if re-treated in 5 or so years. my experience has been that the newer pressure treated wood doesn't hold up as long as the old stuff did, so take the time to re-treat it with something at the 5 year point. i did notice a lot of people talking about using pine. i'm assuming that it's yellow pine, and though i've never used it, i understand it to be a fairly strong wood. just make sure not to use pine if you live near me. our white pine isn't really well suited for structural use when subjected to bending forces.
 
/ Trailer decking #35  
my asphalt painted deck is going on 7ys now with no signs it's going to die any time soon.

I think the treatment and coating is the key..... keep stuff away from the wood and the wood stays good.

soundguy
 
/ Trailer decking #37  
Anyone here ever use Ipe ( Brazilian hardwood ) to deck a trailer? I've work with this material when building house decks and it is very dense/strong, and last forever, I might also say it is heavy, and quite pricey:cool:

Too heavy
 
/ Trailer decking #39  
my asphalt painted deck is going on 7ys now with no signs it's going to die any time soon.

I think the treatment and coating is the key..... keep stuff away from the wood and the wood stays good.

soundguy


What makes this Asphalt paint last long is it penetration factor, it does a good job at that. We use it alot.
 
/ Trailer decking #40  
On my trailer I use Raw Linseed Oil. Gallon goes a long way.
 

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