Trailer capacity/size??

[bugstruck]

I want to get the right capacity trailer to haul my L3130 tractor with the backhoe and loader attached. However, I can't get a handle on the weight of the BH90 hoe. The tractor is listed at 3,305 plus 550 lbs. of load in the rear tires, and 1,389 lbs. for the FEL, Q/A, and bucket. Grand total without the hoe is 5,244 lbs. The factory manual lists my backhoe bucket weight but not the hoe weight. Anyone know the approximate weight of a BH90?

Looks like I'm leaning in on the 7,000 lb. gross capacity (without the hoe) of most landscape trailers and most of them are too short at 16' with the hoe attached. They would just work without the hoe for length and weight capacity. Total length with FEL and hoe is 20'-6" with hoe fully retracted.

I intend to trailer to the dealer and back and occasionally to a friend or relative for some added work /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif.

I've always had dovetail trailers so I'm set up for that. I know the goosenecks are preferred by many for larger trailers/pickup combos. Any comments on the difference in handling or the need to put a connection plate in the bed? That'll mess up my pretty insert. I haul a fair amount of sheet goods flat in the bed so I need that unobstructed or very low profile.

I'm pulling with a F250 Ford diesel which is rated at something just over 11,000 lbs. gross trailer weight so I'm OK there.
Hopefully someone here has hauled this rig around. Any suggestions on the trailer?? /forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif /forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif Having just raided the bank I'd like to keep it civil but I don't want to under trailer this rig either.

Thanks,

 

[RobS]

You're right on the edge of the dime there bug...

Most trailers use standard axles made by one or two companies. They come in 3500 and 5000 pound varieties giving you 7,000 and 10,000 pound trailers but you have to add the tongue weight and subtract the trailer weight.

All said and done, you're right at the limit for a 7,000 pound trailer. Unless you're sold on a gooseneck (better pulling and manueverability), I'd go with a 10,000 pound bumper pull. It's plenty of trailer for your tractor and a good match for your truck.

Whatever you do, be sure to post pictures. You know how we all love that /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif

 

[Jackrabbit_Slim]

I agree 100 percent with RobS. You're right on the edge for weight. I went with an 18 foot 7,000 lb. tag along to haul my B2710 with loader and the "implement of the day" and wish I hadn't. When I decide to retire the present tractor and move on to something heavier, I'm going to take a hit on the trailer as well. Not a big hit, but a hit I didn't have to take if I'd been thinking ahead. I really think you'll be happier with the heavier unit.

Best of the season,

Slim

 

[Egon]

If you do serious trailering go for a gooseneck. There are retractable hitches that will not muck up bed space.

Occasional trailering the bumper pull will do fine. You will need an equalizing hitch.

Suggest a 10K rated dual axle lowboy with brakes and at least 20 feet.

Egon

 

[bugstruck]

Gentlemen thank you! Good advice all! Didn't know the gooseneck mounts could be retractable. That might just work. Got to run to the company Xmas party...... enjoy the Holidays!! /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif

 

[Grassgod]

I have a 3130 with the bh90 hoe & la723 loader. I have several trailer. I have used my 16' 7000lb trailer to haul it many times. If my 20 footer is occupied I use the 16'. I turn the hoe sideways at a 90 degree angle to the tractor & I back it on & i rest the loader bucket on top of the ramp. It stick off a foot or two but the trailer hauls it no sweat. The 20' is nicer but if you only towing a dozen times a year, I 16 footer will occupy alot less room in you yard.

 

[v8dave]

I have a 20' 9,990 pound GVW enclosed car trailer. It is 10 pounds under 10,000 lbs for a good reason. 10,000 GWV rating (not what you've actually got on it) is the lower limit to require a commerical drivers license. There have been a few threads here on TBN about this CDL topic.

Make sure to get both trailer axles with brakes.

Tow with my F250 Diesel. Standard hitch, no issues with tongue weight.

Attached pix is of both rigs. Not sure you can read the license plate. It should be familiar though.

 

[Egon]

Very nice looking trailer. Sure beats the one I tow around.

Egon /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

 

[DDT]

I see that you have a H&H trailer. I have two, 18' enclosed and a 22' GN lowboy for my tractor. I am thinking about trading up the flat bed for a deck over. I really like there trailers.

 

[v8dave]

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( I see that you have a H&H trailer. I have two, 18' enclosed and a 22' GN lowboy for my tractor. I am thinking about trading up the flat bed for a deck over. I really like there trailers. )</font>

I really liked the H&H over the other choices I had when I bought it. It has a lot of nice "standard" touches, the gravel guard in front, the LED clearance and tail lights, the torsion bar suspension. And really important, the rear opening is bigger so taller cars will fit. I was looking at Woodys and they won't fit the smaller openings of the 7,000 GVW trailers. I didn't get a Woody--should have they have really gone up in price. But, it fits my taller Model A just fine.

 

[st1c2]

first thing, check your figures, as i see it your "grand total" is pushing 5800 lb not 5244 lb. (i think the tire weight is per tire).
as for the bh90 weight, i have it written down somewhere but couldn't find it at arms reach but remember it being about 2000 lb (this includes the subframe that was attached to your tractor, easily forgotten about additional weight).
now for trailering. i built my 16' trailer to carry my 2910 with backhoe and loader. i used 3500 lb axles (7000lb trailer). it worked great for that smaller tractor. but this year i purchased a kubota L3830 with loader and backhoe etc. after all the agony about rebuilding my trailer or just buying a new gooseneck, i rebuilt. i spent around $1400.00 for new 6000lb axles with electric breaks, four new 2880 lb rated wheels (i already had the proper tires very expensive) and a new bulldog coupler on trailer. i still need to purchase a $300 equalizing hitch for my truck!!!!
i position the tractor with the loader lifted above the tongue high enough to miss the truck bed in a tight turn. the hoe nests just right between my upright ramps while trailering.
my total dead weight: tractor with hoe and loader is just under 11000 lb (including the sprung weight of the trailer, at 2600 lb easily forgotten about weight again) i place the tractor on the trailer in a position that transfers 950 lb of tongue weight to the truck.
all weighing was done on government scales. i had to be very careful with all this because i pull this for now with my GMC 1500 Z71 4x4. it trailers perfect 0-55 mph, that is fast enough.
you need to do everything associated with the trailer correct, just ask your insurance company. i had to purchase separate insurance to cover the TRACTOR if i have an accident while towing. the insc co stated if anything on the TRAILER is found to be substandard to D.O.T. they will not pay if i have an accident.
it took a lot of time and energy to put it all togeather. hind sight, maybe spending a little more money for the new gooseneck would have allowed spending more time with the family.
by-the-way it looks funny pulling this much weight with a receiver/bumper hitch.
good luck.
steve c.

 

[Grassgod]

st1c2 - Where ya from? Welcome to TBN!

 

[st1c2]

tennessee. and you?
this site looks like it may be very informative.
steve

 

[bugstruck]

Steve, Thanks for the info. I'll check the loaded rear tire weight you mention might be for 1 tire only.

My homeowners policy will cover the tractor in transport to and from the dealer and to my second property but not elsewhere. A friend in the insurance business advised me that to cover the tractor off my property I'd need to schedule it and get inland marine coverage for it to be covered under other situtations. I'll look into that shortly and may do another post when I pull that together.

My insurance co. made no mention of DOT compliance but I think that is the smart way to go. I have to check on the Class C licensing requirement mentioned in an earlier post. I read one location that said you could be over 10,000 on the trailer if your combined (trailer and vehicle gross weights)didn't exceed something approaching 20,000 lbs. However I see some trailer manufacturers coming in with 9,900 lb. gross ratins on trailers that are slung with 6,000 lb. axles so there is something going on there I am missing.

Again, thanks! /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

 

[st1c2]

chris, glad the info helped. but let me say one more time,
my home owners insurance company "farm bureau" did
say i am covered while moving my tractor on my trailer
on the road. my further questioning revealed i was covered
but only for damages to the "other guy's vehicle", not my
tractor damage or trailer damage.
so for my $34,000 investment i am glad i asked for
confirmation of coverage in writing! also theft on your REMOTE
property is most likely not covered either.
just trying to help you out!
my costs are about $250 for the tractor and $35 for the trailer.
cheap piece of mind.
steve c.

 

[GeneD14]

Here is a picture of my 20' H & H hydrualic tilt trailer with my 4330 on it. I love the tilt feature! I also like the 20ft length much better than the 18' I used to have.
Good Luck.