Snow Tractor won’t start tonight.

[HAR]

A bit late to the dance, but this thread brings up an issue that I have long had a gripe about.

The availability of free owner/user manuals. If you open any user manual today, the first 15-30 pages are all warnings and cautions.

All tractor, truck, car manufacturers should take a page from the firearms industry. For safety reasons alone, most all have downloadable PDF versions of owner manuals, and if not, you can normally write to them and get a free printed copy. It does not matter if you bought a gun new or used.

I just do not understand why tractor and other manufacturers do not do the same. It's a no brainer in my estimation. Scanning and saving PDF files is a simple chore, and in today's environment, nearly 100% of all documentation printed for newer equipment starts out in some digital format before going to a paper printer.

Having to go to some third party site and pay money for something that the manufacturer should provide for free is crazy.

I do have the original owner manual for my tractor, but luckily I found and downloaded a free PDF version and I use that more often than not.

 

[karleepapa]

2016 2555HST Cab.

I plowed snow for about 2 hours this morning with no issues. When I was finished, I locked the brakes and after I turned her off, I topped the fuel up (from 3/4 to all the way full).

I came back to her about 5 hours later and now she won’t even turn over!

I have 12.9 volts at the battery, and about the same at the starter. I put a JumpPack on the battery and still won’t turn over.

All the lights, radio, and heater blower work just fine.

I pulled every fuse I could find and they were all good.

It has been about 16 degrees here but she started this morning.

Any suggestions or troubleshooting is appreciated!!!

If you have 12 volts at the starter as you have stated than it's the starter

 

[jrsavoie]

If you have 12 volts at the starter as you have stated than it's the starter

You can have 12 volts. But if they cables won't carry the amps or you have low cca, that means nothing.

A load tester is a cheap tool

 

[w0eaj]

It may very well NOT be what you think it is... moisture from melt gets into the safety switch below the seat (and other places), then refreezes... My Kubota "thinks" there's nobody on the seat, so refuses to wake up. Try "exercising" all the safety switches, and see if it helps.

 

[workinonit]

A bit late to the dance, but this thread brings up an issue that I have long had a gripe about.

The availability of free owner/user manuals. If you open any user manual today, the first 15-30 pages are all warnings and cautions.

All tractor, truck, car manufacturers should take a page from the firearms industry. For safety reasons alone, most all have downloadable PDF versions of owner manuals, and if not, you can normally write to them and get a free printed copy. It does not matter if you bought a gun new or used.

I just do not understand why tractor and other manufacturers do not do the same. It's a no brainer in my estimation. Scanning and saving PDF files is a simple chore, and in today's environment, nearly 100% of all documentation printed for newer equipment starts out in some digital format before going to a paper printer.

Having to go to some third party site and pay money for something that the manufacturer should provide for free is crazy.

I do have the original owner manual for my tractor, but luckily I found and downloaded a free PDF version and I use that more often than not.

You get an owner's and/or operator's manual when you buy a piece of equipment. If the dealer doesn't provide that document then you shouldn't buy the equipment from them. I have manuals for everything I own. I also have the shop manuals for my tractors.

 

[wayout]

Hi do not know if got a heater on it now or not, the frost plug heater will work they are in most cars and trucks, I have both and a pan heater l like because you only need one they can be moved from one tractor to tractor as needed, the one HI B-275 and the BMC 9/16 have inline heaters, I like them heats up the coolant and moves it around the rad and block, some tractors have a small hose that runs from the bottom of the block to the rad, I think it should be 5\8" outside 1\2" inside [that is where you would install an in line, two vice grips with flat gripping arears or some thing flat to put in normal ones leave space for intake and outlet and some extra, make sure there well be no leaks cut the hose, intake from the bottom of the block tighten hose clamp, next is tricky, you have to take that vice grip off and when the inline heater fills, coolant comes out the top put the hose on the other end going to the rad and tighten clap take the other vice grip off, mount the heater before you start, only have to hold and work with with the hose, should have said that first] also I put on the pan heater heats the oil, magnetic, the case has a frost plug heater it works but only heats from one side at -30C [-28F] more of the block being warm the better the starting and warm oil in the pan easier cranking hope this helps

 

[Gord Baker]

So I cycled the PTO handle forward and backwards. I tried starting the tractor with it in all 3 positions, Fwd/Neutral/Back. Still nothing.

Have you tried jumping direct to Starter? Is throttle pulled partially out? Check Ground Connections, give starter a rap with a hammer as it is being tried. (Stuck brush).

 

[kormidoit]

I had similar issue....only in winter....found that if my pto lever moved 1/4 of inch...tractor would not start...found out my jacket would move the lever so slightly, just enough to disengage. Bought a new jacket....if it still happens i will bungee that sucker.

 

[Electronics tech]

I had a similar issue with my Kubota and previousely a Bobcat. In both cases it was a bad battery cable. To find it on the bobcat I had a guy sit in the seat and turn on the key. The fuel solenoid would click when I moved the positive battery cable. The cables were new the year before so I would never have guessed that was the problem. It was the end at the starter was not crimped at the factory properly. The Kubota one was just old corroded cables.

Yeah, you should always look at those before you install them or, preferably, before you buy them. Another thing I like to do is to solder them even if they are crimped well. It keeps them from corroding inside the crimp.

 

[kjnes]

2016 2555HST Cab.

I plowed snow for about 2 hours this morning with no issues. When I was finished, I locked the brakes and after I turned her off, I topped the fuel up (from 3/4 to all the way full).

I came back to her about 5 hours later and now she won’t even turn over!

I have 12.9 volts at the battery, and about the same at the starter. I put a JumpPack on the battery and still won’t turn over.

All the lights, radio, and heater blower work just fine.

I pulled every fuse I could find and they were all good.

It has been about 16 degrees here but she started this morning.

Any suggestions or troubleshooting is appreciated!!!

Check the battery connections and the ground at frame. (Common issues I have) Once instance of a faulted pto switch.