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Tractor-Towable LARGE Dump Trailer
- Thread starter glennmac
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Mainah
Member
Bird...
Thanks for correcting the 6-way plug wiring...it's been a while since I hooked one up I had things confused. I guess what I'd hoped was that just hooking up that unused terminal would activate the trailor brakes...naaaa nothing could be that simple.
Thanks guys for the pricing info...I'll start looking around for the controller.
Thanks for correcting the 6-way plug wiring...it's been a while since I hooked one up I had things confused. I guess what I'd hoped was that just hooking up that unused terminal would activate the trailor brakes...naaaa nothing could be that simple.
Thanks guys for the pricing info...I'll start looking around for the controller.
gordon
Veteran Member
A side note on brakecontroller installation. It's a good idea on the brake controller wire to protect with an auto-reset circiut breaker instead of a fuse.
Reason being if you do get a short in the line or a shorted magnet on one of the wheels you still will have at least a pulsing brake action instead of no brakes at all. With a fuse once blown thats it no brakes at all.
Just a thought.
Gordon
Reason being if you do get a short in the line or a shorted magnet on one of the wheels you still will have at least a pulsing brake action instead of no brakes at all. With a fuse once blown thats it no brakes at all.
Just a thought.
Gordon
Bird
Rest in Peace
<font color=blue>I'll start looking around for the controller</font color=blue>
Jim, you can certainly find them locally at a lot of auto parts stores, RV dealers, etc., but you might want to start shopping at <A target="_blank" HREF=http://www.brakecontroller.com/products.asp?cmd=StoreFront>this site</A> for comparison purposes. The Tekonsha Voyager is the one my brother recently installed on his Suburban. And of course you can find lots of other sites, too, for brake controllers.
And I never did it/w3tcompact/icons/frown.gif, and never blew a fuse, but Gordon's suggestion is certainly correct if you want to do it right.
Jim, you can certainly find them locally at a lot of auto parts stores, RV dealers, etc., but you might want to start shopping at <A target="_blank" HREF=http://www.brakecontroller.com/products.asp?cmd=StoreFront>this site</A> for comparison purposes. The Tekonsha Voyager is the one my brother recently installed on his Suburban. And of course you can find lots of other sites, too, for brake controllers.
And I never did it/w3tcompact/icons/frown.gif, and never blew a fuse, but Gordon's suggestion is certainly correct if you want to do it right.
RickB
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Surge brakes are useless when you are skidding backwards down a hill. If one is going to the effort of having brakes, have real ones, electric, hyd, or air!
Mainah
Member
Bird,
Thanks for that URL...was good to see they had the wiring harnesses too. How involved a project is it to install the controller? Something best done by a professional or could a consumer do it?
Thanks for that URL...was good to see they had the wiring harnesses too. How involved a project is it to install the controller? Something best done by a professional or could a consumer do it?
Mainah
Member
Gordon...
Thanks for the tip...never would have thought of a circuit breaker but it make so much sense!
Thanks for the tip...never would have thought of a circuit breaker but it make so much sense!
Bird
Rest in Peace
<font color=blue>Something best done by a professional or could a consumer do it?</font color=blue>
Jim, I just plain don't know how to answer that. It just depends on how much a consumer knows about the electrical wiring. I've had 3 installed by dealers (since there was no extra cost when I was buying a travel trailer at the same time) and I guess I've done 3 or 4 myself. If you know how to find the right wires, wire up the connector at the back of the vehicle, etc., no big deal. And all the ones I've seen did come with adequate instructions.
Jim, I just plain don't know how to answer that. It just depends on how much a consumer knows about the electrical wiring. I've had 3 installed by dealers (since there was no extra cost when I was buying a travel trailer at the same time) and I guess I've done 3 or 4 myself. If you know how to find the right wires, wire up the connector at the back of the vehicle, etc., no big deal. And all the ones I've seen did come with adequate instructions.
gordon
Veteran Member
Bird hit it pretty much on the head about doing it yourself. Average controller only has 4 wires to hook up. Use an auto reset circiut breaker on the brake controller circiut also on the 12 feed to the plug if your installing that as well.
Main thing is finding a good ground for the controller. Also when you wire the plug make sure you have a good ground for that as well. This is where alot of people make mistakes when doing their own wiring on the ground circiuts.
Also when drilling the fire wall (some you have no other way to get the wires through) make sure you know what is on the other side before drilling. Can be an expensive mistake if you happen to drill into the computer or the brake booster.
Another side note on brake controller installation. If you do it yourself or have someone else do it. DONT use scotch-lock connectors. Use crimp connectors, no if's ands or butts.
When I was an R/V tech the shop I worked for only allowed the use of a scotch lock connector in one place and that was only if the brake wire going to the pedal didn't have enough room to tie a crimp connector in. That was for all wiring in the entire 12 vt systems. Yes people might have great luck with the scotch lock connectors but to do it right use crimp connections.
Gordon
Main thing is finding a good ground for the controller. Also when you wire the plug make sure you have a good ground for that as well. This is where alot of people make mistakes when doing their own wiring on the ground circiuts.
Also when drilling the fire wall (some you have no other way to get the wires through) make sure you know what is on the other side before drilling. Can be an expensive mistake if you happen to drill into the computer or the brake booster.
Another side note on brake controller installation. If you do it yourself or have someone else do it. DONT use scotch-lock connectors. Use crimp connectors, no if's ands or butts.
When I was an R/V tech the shop I worked for only allowed the use of a scotch lock connector in one place and that was only if the brake wire going to the pedal didn't have enough room to tie a crimp connector in. That was for all wiring in the entire 12 vt systems. Yes people might have great luck with the scotch lock connectors but to do it right use crimp connections.
Gordon
Darren
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Does anyone know of an alternative to the scotch lock and the crimp connectors? Either one seems to have problems if it's in the weather. I've used dielectric grease and wrapped them with tape to keep moisture out and they still go bad eventually.
Even the shrink tube doesn't seem guaranteed to keep moisture out long term.
Is there anything used in the aircraft industry that's waterproof? Are crimp connectors used in aircraft work?
Even the shrink tube doesn't seem guaranteed to keep moisture out long term.
Is there anything used in the aircraft industry that's waterproof? Are crimp connectors used in aircraft work?
justractors
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Many companies make a crimp type barrel connector that has "shrink tube' material which, when properly heated and shrunk, seals the connection from the elements. Before I use any shrink tube type of product I cover the connection or wire ends with silicoe grase to help keep the connection dry.
You could go one step further and use the type of connector used in under ground wiring for automatic irrigation systems. It has a small tube containing a water proof grease that the connection is placed into and then capped before the wires are buried.
3M also has a very sticky rubberized product that comes in rolls and is cut to size then placed over the connection.
If there is room and time I crimp on the uncovered barrel connectors then solder. I then coat with silicone grease and then install a quality shrink tube, if the connection may be subject to wear I put another shrink tube over the first.
Bill
You could go one step further and use the type of connector used in under ground wiring for automatic irrigation systems. It has a small tube containing a water proof grease that the connection is placed into and then capped before the wires are buried.
3M also has a very sticky rubberized product that comes in rolls and is cut to size then placed over the connection.
If there is room and time I crimp on the uncovered barrel connectors then solder. I then coat with silicone grease and then install a quality shrink tube, if the connection may be subject to wear I put another shrink tube over the first.
Bill
Mainah
Member
Bird, Gordon...
Thanks for the info. At the site Bird posted with the Tekonsha controllers they listed a wiring connector for different trucks. They appear to have a plug on one end and bare/stripped wires on the other. Could you fill me in on where the wires and plug have to be connected?
I have a 6-way plug already mounted on the truck that I use for my other trailers...would the brake controller connect to this recepticle?
You guys, and TBN is/are fantastic!
Thanks for the info. At the site Bird posted with the Tekonsha controllers they listed a wiring connector for different trucks. They appear to have a plug on one end and bare/stripped wires on the other. Could you fill me in on where the wires and plug have to be connected?
I have a 6-way plug already mounted on the truck that I use for my other trailers...would the brake controller connect to this recepticle?
You guys, and TBN is/are fantastic!
Bird
Rest in Peace
Jim, unfortunately (or maybe I should say fortunately/w3tcompact/icons/wink.gif), a lot of my experience is dated. I never had one of those wiring harnesses; had to just run the wires to where they were needed myself. If I were going to do it now, I'd have to order one of those harnesses and see how it worked. Like Gordon said, the controller should have 4 wires; (1) ground, (2) hot wire when the key is on, (3) tapped into brake light, and (4) back to the plug connector on the rear of the vehicle (and therefore on to the brakes on the trailer).
<font color=blue>I have a 6-way plug already mounted on the truck that I use for my other trailers...would the brake controller connect to this recepticle?</font color=blue>
Yes, assuming it really is a 6 prong plug (and all the ones I recall on the vehicle were); you know they make some "adapters" for 4 wire trailers that have what looks like a round 6 prong connector, but not all the holes have a metal contact in them. So, if you already have the other wires hooked up properly to that 6 prong plug, then the contact that isn't currently being used will be the one for the brakes. There is, of course, a "standard" sequence or arrangement for which wires go to which contact, but I'd have to look at the instructions to remember what order it is now.
Gordon has not only probably done a lot more of this than I have, but also more recently, so maybe he'll clarify, confirm, or correct this for us./w3tcompact/icons/laugh.gif
<font color=blue>I have a 6-way plug already mounted on the truck that I use for my other trailers...would the brake controller connect to this recepticle?</font color=blue>
Yes, assuming it really is a 6 prong plug (and all the ones I recall on the vehicle were); you know they make some "adapters" for 4 wire trailers that have what looks like a round 6 prong connector, but not all the holes have a metal contact in them. So, if you already have the other wires hooked up properly to that 6 prong plug, then the contact that isn't currently being used will be the one for the brakes. There is, of course, a "standard" sequence or arrangement for which wires go to which contact, but I'd have to look at the instructions to remember what order it is now.
Gordon has not only probably done a lot more of this than I have, but also more recently, so maybe he'll clarify, confirm, or correct this for us./w3tcompact/icons/laugh.gif
Mainah
Member
Bird,
The 6-way I has does have the brake contact in the system. I have an adapter for hooking up the flat, 4-wire plugs so common on some trailers....so I guess plug/recepticle wise I'm all set.
I am wondering about the wiring harness. I wonder if the plug end hooks to the brake controller....and the wires to the truck....or if newer trucks are already set-up with a connector, presumably so you don't have to drill through the firewall etc. Just plugging in the harness to the truck wiring system takes care of all that. Perhaps the instructions that come with the parts explain...very clearly I'd hope.
The 6-way I has does have the brake contact in the system. I have an adapter for hooking up the flat, 4-wire plugs so common on some trailers....so I guess plug/recepticle wise I'm all set.
I am wondering about the wiring harness. I wonder if the plug end hooks to the brake controller....and the wires to the truck....or if newer trucks are already set-up with a connector, presumably so you don't have to drill through the firewall etc. Just plugging in the harness to the truck wiring system takes care of all that. Perhaps the instructions that come with the parts explain...very clearly I'd hope.
Anonymous Poster
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Trailers in the Northern Tool (www.northerntool.com) catalog are manufactured by Ohio Steel. To see the entire line go to www.ohiosteel.com
Anonymous Poster
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Jim
Yes, many of the newer trucks (mid 90's) do have a wire run for this. Some have a whole plug in setup ready to go, some just deadend the brake feed wire up under the dash - check owners or shop manual.
Although it goes against the spirit of the "male do it yourselfer", and although I've done a number of installations myself - I'm gonna pay for the next one to be put in for me. I don't twist under the dash and work upside down as well as I used to, and just don't have as much time to fix my inevitable bad splice or poor ground.
Yes, many of the newer trucks (mid 90's) do have a wire run for this. Some have a whole plug in setup ready to go, some just deadend the brake feed wire up under the dash - check owners or shop manual.
Although it goes against the spirit of the "male do it yourselfer", and although I've done a number of installations myself - I'm gonna pay for the next one to be put in for me. I don't twist under the dash and work upside down as well as I used to, and just don't have as much time to fix my inevitable bad splice or poor ground.
gordon
Veteran Member
As was stated on some of the newer trucks with the trailer towing package its already wired. With the plug you plug into the trucks harness and still have to wire the brake controller. With the harness it's only 4 butt connectors.
If your truck wasn't prewired then you have to run a line back to the rear of the truck from the controller. That is of course after you run 12 volt feed to it from the battery and tie into the brake pedal switch.
Most controllers come with some pretty good pictures. Once you get a controller and if your stumped just post again and I'll try to help. Or if you have any other questions before then Just ask.
Gordon
If your truck wasn't prewired then you have to run a line back to the rear of the truck from the controller. That is of course after you run 12 volt feed to it from the battery and tie into the brake pedal switch.
Most controllers come with some pretty good pictures. Once you get a controller and if your stumped just post again and I'll try to help. Or if you have any other questions before then Just ask.
Gordon
Anonymous Poster
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West Marine sells adhesive lined heat shrink butt splices, packaged by Ancor. Also available from McMaster Carr at like half the price but in larger quanities. I've never seen one of these go bad. Crimps should be done with a ratchet tool, not with one of the models made of 2 pieces of ~ 3/16 metal riveted together. I use a $200 unit from T&B, but a $20 hamfest special is almost as good.
Either source also has 3 to 1 adhesive lined heat shrink tubing, which will insulate other splices. 3 to 1 means it will shrink to a third of the original diameter.
Pat
Either source also has 3 to 1 adhesive lined heat shrink tubing, which will insulate other splices. 3 to 1 means it will shrink to a third of the original diameter.
Pat
gordon
Veteran Member
Dang for my T&B crimpers I only paid about $45. but they don't ratchet. But my larger T&B crimpers for battery cables really hurt when I bought them.
But yes when it comes to tools you get what you pay for.
Gordon
But yes when it comes to tools you get what you pay for.
Gordon
Here are some similar links:
