Tractor not starting

[bewildered]

When did it start having problems? Glow plugs heating up?

The crazy thing is, I never had a problem starting until now. Parked it after last snow in the spring, went to use it a week later for one last fluke snow and it wouldn't start. No glow plugs as well. it would just crank but not fire. Changed out fuel filters first, then bled injectors still no fire. The weird thing is that it won't fire with either.

 

[alexpops]

I don't know that machine, but from a quick search on the engine (188D) it shows 4 "heat" plugs in the intake & a heat plug troubleshooter. If you only run this in the winter, could it be a bad relay/short/mouse issue? If you're getting compression & fuel only thing left in my mind is heat.

https://www.jensales.com/content/ppp/case-188d-engine-service-manual.pdf

 

[Gator6x4]

Time to remove the pump and check the timing. If fuel is being sent to the injectors as your test indicates to continue cranking will load the cylinders with fuel which could result in hydro lock or piston wall damage. One test you can do is remove the number one injector, re-attach the fuel line and use vice grip plier and attach the injector to a bucket and see if the pump has sufficient pressure to fire the injector.

I know nothing about how to time the pump on your Case so I called a OLD Diesel head.

He advised going from memory the pump is timed as a previous poster stated. He also advised the unit is not lock timed like new engines are what ever that means. He advised there are two marks under the pomp timing cover with two screws in it. He advised these marks should be aligned before the pump is removed. If this was not done and the pump is being reinstalled to align the shat end dot with the rotor drive groove dot and install the pump. He also advised the timing needs to be set after installing the pump and the timing should be 6 degrees BTDC not TDC. He also advise there should be a label on the valve cover giving the correct timing information BTDC or TDC and the timing number.

He also advised he would need his old workshop notes which he no longer had before advising on how to time the engine.

 

[super55]

How would I check that? I did pop the valve cover to see if maybe I had a valve sticking, but everything looked to be operating, even checked the valve/ rocker arm clearance according to the sticker on the cover and that checked out as well.

Easiest way to do this pull the front gear case cover off and make sure all your tick marks on the gears are aligned. If you didn't go to deep into the engine then the camshaft gear should be synced correctly with the crankshaft unless it jumped gear. Here's a pic of typical alignment. If you had to remove the pump gear & idler gear and re-installed without proper syncing to the pump it will never start because likely your injection is way off in relation to your compression.

 

[thepumpguysc]

I’m confused.. has the engine ran AFTER the pump rebuild.?? If yes, timing isn’t the problem.. if it was 180 out of time, it wouldn’t have ran.
If the machine sat, chances are the inside of the pump is gummed up..

 

[zzvyb6]

Pull the valve cover and see if you have a set of stuck open valves. Biodiesel does this if it sits for a month. My Ford 3000 got stuck injector plungers, too, bent them, of course...

 

[Gator6x4]

I’m confused.. has the engine ran AFTER the pump rebuild.?? If yes, timing isn’t the problem.. if it was 180 out of time, it wouldn’t have ran.
If the machine sat, chances are the inside of the pump is gummed up..

Don’t think the engine has ran since the pump rebuild. I also think the OP said it would not start which prompted the pump rebuild by his brother.

Read posts # 1 and 8. Post 11 will tell you how it has been since the unit ran. I interpret the post, post 11 as late spring was the last time the unit actually ran.

 

[bewildered]

Time to remove the pump and check the timing. If fuel is being sent to the injectors as your test indicates to continue cranking will load the cylinders with fuel which could result in hydro lock or piston wall damage. One test you can do is remove the number one injector, re-attach the fuel line and use vice grip plier and attach the injector to a bucket and see if the pump has sufficient pressure to fire the injector.

I know nothing about how to time the pump on your Case so I called a OLD Diesel head.

He advised going from memory the pump is timed as a previous poster stated. He also advised the unit is not lock timed like new engines are what ever that means. He advised there are two marks under the pomp timing cover with two screws in it. He advised these marks should be aligned before the pump is removed. If this was not done and the pump is being reinstalled to align the shat end dot with the rotor drive groove dot and install the pump. He also advised the timing needs to be set after installing the pump and the timing should be 6 degrees BTDC not TDC. He also advise there should be a label on the valve cover giving the correct timing information BTDC or TDC and the timing number.

He also advised he would need his old workshop notes which he no longer had before advising on how to time the engine.

Thank you! Talking with my brother I believe that is what I need to do. I did do as advised and removed the cover and aligned the 2 marks before removing the pump for rebuild. First thing is to make sure it is at number 1 cylinder before removing to double check that it is sending fuel at the correct time. As luck would have it I can't remember for sure if I lined up both dots, I remember seeing the one on the drive shaft but don't know if I double checked the pump side. I was so excited that I actually got it installed without wrinkling the rubber seals that I may have overlooked it. So, back to the beginning and remove the pump and start over.

 

[bewildered]

I’m confused.. has the engine ran AFTER the pump rebuild.?? If yes, timing isn’t the problem.. if it was 180 out of time, it wouldn’t have ran.
If the machine sat, chances are the inside of the pump is gummed up..

No, it hasn't fired, it turns over great and almost wants to start but just not quite. After the pump was rebuilt I installed and have been trying to get started since so no chance of it being gummed up.

 

[bewildered]

Pull the valve cover and see if you have a set of stuck open valves. Biodiesel does this if it sits for a month. My Ford 3000 got stuck injector plungers, too, bent them, of course...

I removed the valve cover and checked that, and they appear to be operating properly. fortunately these are pencil injectors and purchased brand new so hopefully I won't have that problem.