Tractor hard to start in cold

[OldGrayOwl]

Hi,
I’ve done research but have not found a solution. 1998 John Deere 310SE backhoe with 4.5l (272ci) diesel engine. When mild temps , starts immediately. When cold, will hardly turn over and sometimes not start. Put battery charger on it and it shows batteries almost fully charged. Three guesses as to what might be going on: bad ground wiring; bad starter motor; or batteries (2). I just can’t think of why it starts like a champ all summer, then barely turns over when cold (below 35f). What would be most likely affected by cold temperatures? Seems batteries to me, but curios if anyone has had and cured this problem. Thanks.

Since it has always been hard starting when cold, and others have the same issue, it might just be a design issue. What I have found is to add a heavy wire to one of the bolts on the starter, and the other end going to the ground terminal on the battery.That will get rid of any resistance between the starter itself and the chassis ground. Also, make sure that the positive wiring going to the starter is heavy enough.

 

[Cycledude]

I replaced the original coil in my 70+ years old 8N Ford tractor and it starts better now than it ever did in the 50+ years it’s been in the family

 

[BackRoad]

Looks like the OP has been quiet for the last 30 days...

Curious if it is resolved and what the final fix was?

 

[Jerry/MT]

Hi,
I’ve done research but have not found a solution. 1998 John Deere 310SE backhoe with 4.5l (272ci) diesel engine. When mild temps , starts immediately. When cold, will hardly turn over and sometimes not start. Put battery charger on it and it shows batteries almost fully charged. Three guesses as to what might be going on: bad ground wiring; bad starter motor; or batteries (2). I just can’t think of why it starts like a champ all summer, then barely turns over when cold (below 35f). What would be most likely affected by cold temperatures? Seems batteries to me, but curios if anyone has had and cured this problem. Thanks.

A diesel engine Achille's heel is cold weather. Oil viscosity is high requires (so more starter torque to turn over the engine), battery output is low at lower temperatures (so starter torque output is naturally lower). Combustion chamber walls are cold and that has a deactivating effect on starting the combustion process. Your best bet is to get a block heater and plug it in for a couple of hours before you want to use.

 

[Tx Jim]

It may have been mentioned but I will mention as it's very important that to start JD engine in tractors with similar closed-center hyd system one needs to utilize a front hyd destroking mechanism so front hyd pump isn't attempting to build hyd pressure during engine starting process. Manual DS screw encircled in green or electric controlled DS valves are available. Also relocate battery ground cables from tractor sheet metal to engine block for better electrical continuity.

 

[Mike1955]

Tex Jim I didn’t know about that screw. I remember shifting the steering wheel from side to side make the engine turn faster. Grounds are really inadequate on all this equipment, I agrree

 

[Gordon Gould]

This is all very informative but I find it interesting that everyone has ignored the statement about the factory installed ether system. I have a 1990 dozer with a 239 ci 4 cylinder motor. There are no glow plugs or block heater. (I would put in a block heater but would need to haul a generator and get there early to use it.) There is however a factory installed ether injection system. Injects a snort into the intake manifold. The manual plainly states that the ether inject SHOULD be used below 30*F. To me it was put there for a reason and I use it per the manual. Other wise it is very hard starting below freezing. I have owned it since 2011 and know nothing about the prior history but the motor is original and the hour meter reads 3600 hrs which is questionable on a 35 year old machine. It runs strong and starts easy and quick above 40*. I cannot see where the ether system has hurt it. One short snort while it is cranking is all it takes. Just saying.........

gg

 

[LouNY]

But you have the engine turning over when you give that one shot ether button a push. They work good that way. But, when some sprays a bunch into an intake and then goes and starts cranking it over is when you hear those horrendous ether clanks and bangs.

 

[Gordon Gould]

But you have the engine turning over when you give that one shot ether button a push. They work good that way. But, when some sprays a bunch into an intake and then goes and starts cranking it over is when you hear those horrendous ether clanks and bangs.

Yes that is correct and the proper way to use ether.

gg

 

[Gordon Gould]

You're expecting an awful lot if you think your diesel will start in the cold w/o some sort of starting aid to enhance combustion. On my M5640 when I use the block heater the glow plugs don't cycle on because they think it is summer time. It turns over good and fast because the oil is warm but it cranks forever before it will start. It bothers me to have to crank so long. So I force the the glow plugs on for 3 or 4 seconds and it starts on the first grunt.

Just an FYI - on most Kubotas you can force the glow plugs on by putting it in gear and turning the key to start. Hold it there in start. It will not turn over and the glow plug light will not come on but they will be on. When you want to start shift to neutral and it will start cranking as normal. On my M5640 I use the main shift lever, 1,2,3,or 4 on my L3010 it is the F/N/R lever that works.

gg