Towing Questions

[Sockwell]

I'm sure these types of questions are asked on here often. (I did do a little searching before posting.) I have a Kubota L5740 with the LA854 loader and a Bush Hog BH26 cutter. My current trailer is too short for this combination. The current trailer is a 20' long Big Tex. So, I'm looking for a longer trailer, something in the 25' range. The questions for you guys are: 1.) Can I tow this with a 1/2 ton? (2013 F150, 5.0l)? 2.) Do I need a weight distribution hitch? 3.)What trailer brand would you recommend? Thanks.

 

[George2615]

Whether your F150 5.0L can tow this combo depends on which cab style, 2 or 4WD, and rear axle ratio. Towing capacity could be from 7600-10000 lbs. depending on how yours is configured. See the site below for your truck.

http://www.fleet.ford.com/resources/ford/general/pdf/towingguides/13FLRVTTgde_Oct19.pdf

I would recommend using a WD hitch. I'm not sure what your equipment plus a trailer would weigh. Probably be in the 6-7K range, maybe more.
Many good trailer brands out there. I have PJ and CrossCountry trailers and I'm happy with there quality.

 

[Diamondpilot]

You for first need to know the weight of your equipment. A 25' trailer is going to be in the 2500 to 3000# weight range itself.

Your tractor is 4300#. I'm guessing your loader is about 1200#. That brings you to 5500#. A BH is about 1000# on the heavy end so 6,500# total. If your tires are loaded add that in and the trailer plus 100# for chains and binders.

With that said if you have a trailer at say 3000# you are at 9,600# total. As long as your F150 is rated at 10,000# you are good to go.

Chris

 

[4570Man]

I wouldn't tow it with a 1/2 ton. I think you'll be over the maximum towing capacity regardless. The loader is 1300 pounds and I think that's without a bucket. The tractor is 4300 pounds. How much does the bush hog and trailer weigh? Are the tires loaded?

 

[LD1]

Tractor weight.....4224#
Bushhog.........1100#
Loader............1700#
Loaded tires???......1200#

8224# total weight

I think you need a 12k trailer and 3/4 ton truck if you plan on towing regularly.

 

[Sockwell]

Oops, I left a few things out. The truck is a 2013 F150, Super Crew, 5.0l, 6 speed auto., with 4.11 gears (aftermarket, installed when the truck was new), 6.5' Bed, 4x4. The best I can figure the weight of the tractor (cabbed), loader, loaded tires, and BH26, the total load weight is going to be about 6,800#. I'd probably figure 7,500# to give a little safety factor.

 

[4570Man]

The tractor is more than that. LD1s 8200 pounds is closer. The only way to know for sure is run it across a scale. You're out of a 1/2 tons league.

 

[LD1]

Oops, I left a few things out. The truck is a 2013 F150, Super Crew, 5.0l, 6 speed auto., with 4.11 gears (aftermarket, installed when the truck was new), 6.5' Bed, 4x4. The best I can figure the weight of the tractor (cabbed), loader, loaded tires, and BH26, the total load weight is going to be about 6,800#. I'd probably figure 7,500# to give a little safety factor.

Yea, your 6800# is WAY off.

Tractor and cab is 4224
Loaded tires can vary. Beat juice or WW fluid? R1's or R4's? R4's with beet juice is 589# per tire....so pushing 1200. R1's with WW fluid would be the lightest at 800# for the pair....so a 800-1200# range there.
B
H26 as per bushhog is 1100#.

So we are at 6124-6524 range NOT COUNTING THE LOADER.

my LA844 on my MX5100 is 1322#. But that dont count the bucket. The 72" HD roundback is 362# So 1684# there

I imagine your LA854 is similar. Look in your loader manual for specs, because they often arent published online.

So now we are at a 7808-8208# range. Add the weight of the trailer........and you exceed 10k by quite a bit.

IF you were planning on towing only a few times a year, to a second property like 5 miles away, and back roads and low speeds......I'd say you'd probably be fine with current truck. But any thing longer distances, more frequent, or at speed......as I advised......3/4-ton and 12k trailer

 

[Soundguy]

Getting up to where you need 20+' trailers and are exceeding 10k, I'd go gooseneck all the way.

Only way I'd tow a heavy bumper pull is if I had alot of truck up front
think dually with large/ upgraded brakes and suspension.

And if I had that, I'd still go gooseneck.

I whit knuckled a max bumper pull load on a half ton way too long.

Will I stop in time?

Can I stop going down a steep hill fast enough?

I need to pull out in to traffic without benefit of a traffic signal. Can my strained anemic truck get me and the trailer and cargo out there safely without stopping traffic?

What happens when you are doing 75 down the interstate loaded for bear and a right rear tire lets go? Will you get pulled over safely, or wake up while they are extracting you from your vehicle?

Sure 6 tires on the road might be a little less fuel economy, and a few more bucks wear, but come tire pop time, or traction tests, hard to beat an extra 2 rear tires.

 

[Fallon]

You asked can instead of should. Even if you can legally I hate pushing my equipment to the limit. It wears out faster & is harder to operate at the performance limit.

My Tacoma was rated to tow 6,500lbs, which is what my L3200, trailer & stuff came out to. It pulled it, it stopped all of it, but it was an unpleasant couple of white knuckle tows. I now have the beater F250 farm truck for that. It's a slow gasser, but no longer a white knuckle tow.

Get a 3/4 or 1 ton & do it right.

 

[Sockwell]

Yes, I was off. It looks more like 7850#. The tractor is listed at 4,224#, the loader is 1,300#, the bucket is 322#, the (2) loaded 17.5L-24's are 913# total, then add 1,095 for the mower. It looks like the real weight is about 7,850, so I'd figure about 8,000 for the load. Overall, I guess y'all have confirmed what I figured: I'm better off not doing it. And I'd rather learn that here than on the side of the road. I've been down the road of trading up to a 3/4 ton to tow a specific load and I won't do that again. It's not worth the cost. The question was asked because I've leased some land 8 miles away. I only need the tractor at that property 4 times per year. I'm probably better off just taking the extra hour to ride the tractor.

 

[4570Man]

Just driving it would be my approach. I don't like doing that, but it's a lot cheaper than buying a new truck and trailer. By the time you hookup a trailer load and secure the tractor it's probably no slower to just drive it.

 

[Diamondpilot]

Yes, I was off. It looks more like 7850#. The tractor is listed at 4,224#, the loader is 1,300#, the bucket is 322#, the (2) loaded 17.5L-24's are 913# total, then add 1,095 for the mower. It looks like the real weight is about 7,850, so I'd figure about 8,000 for the load. Overall, I guess y'all have confirmed what I figured: I'm better off not doing it. And I'd rather learn that here than on the side of the road. I've been down the road of trading up to a 3/4 ton to tow a specific load and I won't do that again. It's not worth the cost. The question was asked because I've leased some land 8 miles away. I only need the tractor at that property 4 times per year. I'm probably better off just taking the extra hour to ride the tractor.

I learned a long time ago I can drive my tractor 5 miles way, way quicker than I can hitch the trailer, check the tires, lower the ramps, load the tractor, chain it down, and put the ramps back up. Reality is it takes 30 minutes to do it. I can drive my tractor 5 miles in 20 minutes and have fun doing it. 8 miles takes the same 30 minutes I used to spend getting it on the trailer.

I still have the trailer but short hauls I just drive it.

Chris

 

[Sockwell]

The last time I rode it, it was 1:04, gate-to-gate. Still, just as soon ride.

 

[joefromga]

If you carry your 4 wheeler or tow it while tractoring the 8 miles, you can easily scoot back to the house if you need to get tools or whatever in a pinch.

 

[Gary Fowler]

The last time I rode it, it was 1:04, gate-to-gate. Still, just as soon ride.

Less than 8 MPH with your tractor. Are you sure about the distance? Most any CUT will beat 10 or 12 MPH in high gear, that is if you are running it at WOT and highest gear. Anyway, even at an hour, that is not a lot of difference in time to load, chain and unload.

 

[LD1]

Only way I see it taking over an hour to drive a 15-16 mph tractor 8 miles is if there is alot of stops and turns.

So I would assume this trip with a loaded trailer would easily take 20 minutes. Then 10 to load and chain down, and 10 to unload and unchain.

40 min vs 1 hour isnt alot.

 

[Sockwell]

I've measured the distance twice. I think the tractor is rated at a max speed of 13 mph. I try to run it about 10-11 mph, but the drive has a lot of hills that the HST slows down on. And the drive is partially on rough gravel roads. As said, with the BH26 on, it was 1:04 from gate-to-gate.

 

[Diamondpilot]

The last time I rode it, it was 1:04, gate-to-gate. Still, just as soon ride.

My tractor can do 20 plus MPhil. I only go about 15. How slow is your tractor? We walk 3.5 miles in a hour.

Chris

 

[4570Man]

My L3240 will maintain 15 mph on flat ground. It drops significantly up hills, but it'll pull a hill you're likely to find on a roadway at 6-10 mph. It'll top 20 downhill. Your tractor has a lot higher power to weight than mine does so it should do better up hills.