Chains Towing Ability & Tow Chains

[bartonkj]

I have a New Holland TC24D and a Dodge Ram 4x4 that weighs about 5000lbs. The tires on the Dodge are terrible off road and I will not be getting better tires anytime soon (unfortunately). I'm wondering if (when) I get the Ram stuck out in the muddy field (24 acres), how well will the 4x4 TC24 do "helping" the Ram get unstuck. New property, new house, new tractor (don't even have it yet - bought, but dealer is storing until we can take delivery at the new property).

Also, given that the Ram weighs about 5000lbs - what rating chain should be used? Lifting a truck straight up (which of course I won't be doing) is one thing - but pulling it when it is stuck seems to me like the drag may be more than the weight of the truck? What is a safe (or at least necessary) margine?

 

[B2400]

Think "Tow Strap", not chains!! Get a good 4"x20ft nylon tow strap and you won't be nearly as hard on equipment as you will with just a chain. I've got a '78 Chevy 3/4 ton 4x4 and I carry 2 chains, 2 tow straps (1 is a 30,000lb nylon) and a 12,000lb Warn winch. Yea, I still get stuck once in a while, but thats how you know the capabilities of your truck!

 

[taohog]

Tow strap is the only way to go!! My Deere and Dodge has pulled each other out so many times I have lost count. The only down side to the straps are that they can get cut very easly.

 

[JJT]

The TC24 should be fine pulling out the truck. My tractor's a little bigger but I've had no problems pulling out loaded 1 tons. Like the others said, go with a strap.

 

[bartonkj]

I didn't even think about a strap instead of a chain. I'm new to this kind of stuff. It seems so obvious now that you mention it though. I was leary about using chains anyway just cause I have seen some massive failures before (although those were with braided steel lines instead of chains - but still): it's fun trying to pull a five ton, 6 wheel drive transport truck out of the mud when it is sunk down to the doors (gotta love those tank trails at Camp Pendelton).

Also good to know I'm not crazy for thinking the little TC24 might have some success at pulling /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif Thanks!

 

[Poncho]

Definitaely a strap is the way to go. I've got one of the 30m# rate tow straps and i recently pulled out a Ford Crew Cab 4x4, chained to a full size work van when our road got real muddy from the rains.... they are a lot easier to deal with plus they are easier on your paint job.

 

[Henro]

Well...I donno...

I know everyone is saying use a strap, and I guess I would be saying that too if it were a truck pulling a truck.

But with the tractor, I would think a chain would do just fine. You have such better control over speed, with the low gearing. You are not going to snap the chain tight like you might with if it were between road vehicles.

This winter I had no problem pulling a guy out of my driveway in his van, with a chain. Smoth as silk...now that was not mud...

For some reason with the tractor I personally prefer chain...although I got nothing against a good strap. I have one of them too...but with the tractor, it is the last thing I reach for...for whatever reason.

 

[JDgreen227]

I have both straps and chains, for pulling vehicles I prefer the straps because there are no metal hooks to cause injury or damage if a strap breaks, and the stretch factor can help with a heavy vehicle. For tree limbs, stumps, large rocks, etc. I prefer a chain because it's easier to adjust the length by using the grab hooks. Straps never seem to be the length you need for those purposes.

 

[BigEddy]

Just because there isn't a hook, doesn't make the strap safe. There is a lot more elasticity in the strap, so if it breaks, it will definitely spring at you, whereas a chain will usually fall if it breaks. And that flying strap can take your head off.
But -the stretch can also be used to assist with the recovery if you take a bit of a run at it.
Either way - any time you stretch anything, be cautious, keep spectators way back, and cover the strap or chain with something like a blanket to reduce the springback.

Biggest thing - use an appropriately sized chain or strap with at least a 5 x safety margin if you will pull gently, 10x if you run at it, and make sure it is in good shape. (By the way - it takes a massive chain to achieve the 30,000lb strength of those straps)

 

[wvhillbilly]

If you do decide to get a chain, I would recommend getting a "Grade 70" chain. They do not cost much more and they are so much stronger. They are easy to identify. They are goldish colored and about every other link is stamped. Tractor Supply. Lowe's even sells them in a nice little bucket to keep it clean until it's first use.
Dave

 

[PineRidge]

My vote is for the grade 70 chain.

A week or so ago when we had a lot of ice a young inexperienced UPS deliveryman made the mistake of driving the full length of my drive. No problem coming in to the house since it's downhill but no way could he get back out. He gave it his best and tried but eventually gave up and was going to call his supervisor. That's when I rolled out the TC-40D, hooked up my chain to the draw-bar and let him attach to a low point under his truck.

Used low range and pulled him, his truck, and all his packages right up the hill without breaking a sweat.

My experience with straps is that they can become easily damaged or cut on sharp surfaces. Try damaging a grade 70 chain the same way.

 

[wvhillbilly]

"Try damaging a Gr 70 chain the same way"... Could not have said it better myself PineRidge. Don't get me wrong. I am not all against tow straps. I own a few myself. I just believe that certain jobs require certain tools. I don't drive nails with a rubber mallet and I don't shape tin with a framing hammer. What I have found that works good for me is use straps "on the asphalt" and use chains "on the trail" or "on the farm"
Dave

 

[Steve_Miller]

Just beware of Grade 70 or better chain as if it does break under tension it wiil fly even more so then a lesser grade of chain.

Steve
Nova Scotia