Torque Wrench Suggestions

[rScotty]

I rarely use a torque wrench. All they do is measure resistance to turning, and that is too often affected by things like thread wear, different materials - steel bolt into an aluminum pan, type of washer - or not, type of lube or not, dirt, and wrench angle.

There comes a time for old mechanics when they have tightened enough bolts to prefer to trust their own feel. Sometimes I check it with a torque wrench if doing something where it needs to be very even. Head bolts. rod nuts. clutch plates. Not single bolts.

It would be different in laboratory controlled conditions, or for someone just learning. For those times or for mine above, I use & recommend a simple inexpensive beam & pointer torque wrench. It never needs adjustment because it can't be wrong, it reads ft and inch pounds or metric all on the same scale, and can be bought in the 20 dollar range..

rScotty

 

[M59]

I've got a Honda Hybrid car. Tend to do my oil changes myself as I've had work done before in life and didn't like what they did.

As I'm told, the oil pan is made from aluminum. The drain bolt, isn't. I've had a couple conversations about someone tightening down their drain plug (which has a crush washer) and stripping the oil pan threads.

That strikes me as a terribly inopportune thing to do. Enter idea of torque wrench. I've already got a 1/2" but not sure I need that for this bolt.... besides.... might be a good excuse to add a tool to the box. (I am thinking either 1/4" drive or maybe 3/8)


Thoughts/suggestions?

Richard,

Perhaps the below is of interest. These come in 1/2" and 3/8" drive and turn anything into a torque wrench. I have one of each and use them when standard "long arm"/ beam torque wrench won't fit into space such as wheel well when torquing brake caliper holder and for verifying whether or not standard torque wrench is still in spec. Comes with NIST calibration. I remove batteries when not in use. Beeps when torque reached and displays highest torque after torque finished. The 3/8" has min torque of 3 foot pounds or 36 inch pounds which is way lower than your oil plug spec.

 

[brkdrvr]

I've got a Honda Hybrid car. Tend to do my oil changes myself as I've had work done before in life and didn't like what they did.

As I'm told, the oil pan is made from aluminum. The drain bolt, isn't. I've had a couple conversations about someone tightening down their drain plug (which has a crush washer) and stripping the oil pan threads.

That strikes me as a terribly inopportune thing to do. Enter idea of torque wrench. I've already got a 1/2" but not sure I need that for this bolt.... besides.... might be a good excuse to add a tool to the box. (I am thinking either 1/4" drive or maybe 3/8)

Not interested in paying $1,000 for one BUT, also not interested in finding one for $12.95 as I'd expect it to break on first use. Who makes a good torque wrench these days? My 1/2" is a clicker type, I like that. I see digital readouts now.... that tells me they have a battery. Batteries can die. Seems clicker style can go out of spec.... so all have some issues.

Thoughts/suggestions?

I own and maintain a small fleet of VW TDI vehicles (5 TDI’s from 2011 through 2015) and when I started dealing with VW’s was unpleasantly surprised with the extensive use by VW’s engineers of torque specifications, torque to yield bolts and one time use bolts. I investigated and concluded that the best solution for me was to follow the VW specs in most cases and that required an upgrade to my torque wrench selection. One of the 1st things I did was have my 20 year old wrench serviced and recalibrated. The process of getting the wrench serviced was an education in its self, I found the most reputable servicer convenient to me would only service what they considered good quality wrenches, which seemed reasonable so I researched and decided I agreed with their conclusion and used their list of brands to select the additional wrenches I needed (and 1/4 Drive inch/lb ratcheting unit, and a moderate 3/8 drive ft/lb ratcheting unit.) no Chineseium both of which could be serviced and recalibrated/certified. I would have stuck with a couple of the beam type wrenches I had but their size (length) and lack of ratcheting in tight spaces led me to sell them and upgrade due to the requirements of my jobs. VW TDI’s timing belts jobs require extensive torquing as does most suspension and transmission (dual mass clutch and flywheel repairs) and any engine mount changes. I am not a torque **** but I do torque all allow wheel lugs to spec however I will confess to not torquing possibly hundreds of oil drain Plugs in the last 45 years but I have never stripped any of the many dozens in aluminum pans. I guess my final observation is why buy a poor quality torque wrench if you don’t care about torque spec (it’s literally all about accuracy). Everyone has their theory on torquing and torque wrenches and have to decide what works for you. I have only serviceable/certifiable wenches, none cost over $150.00, non from Harbor freight, kobalt, husky, new craftsman etc. I only do work I care about for family/friends and mostly torque things related to 1, safety 2, the cost of materials/parts (replacing and repairing from not torquing) 3, the labor involved (doing twice as a result of not torquing). Also following the example and advice of technicians who I believe and have observed to be competent.

 

[brkdrvr]

I rarely use a torque wrench. All they do is measure resistance to turning, and that is too often affected by things like thread wear, different materials - steel bolt into an aluminum pan, type of washer - or not, type of lube or not, dirt, and wrench angle.

There comes a time for old mechanics when they have tightened enough bolts to prefer to trust their own feel. Sometimes I check it with a torque wrench if doing something where it needs to be very even. Head bolts. rod nuts. clutch plates. Not single bolts.

It would be different in laboratory controlled conditions, or for someone just learning. For those times or for mine above, I use & recommend a simple inexpensive beam & pointer torque wrench. It never needs adjustment because it can't be wrong, it reads ft and inch pounds or metric all on the same scale, and can be bought in the 20 dollar range..

rScotty

View attachment 782332

Beam wrenches are great if they are useable in your application and great quality ones can be found on ebay. I would use and own nothing but if I could do without ratcheting function and length issues. Never having to pay to have serviced or calibrated or do without while they are out for repair is a big plus.

 

[Jims1025R]

All they do is measure resistance to turning, and that is too often affected by things like thread wear, different materials - steel bolt into an aluminum pan, type of washer - or not, type of lube or not, dirt, and wrench angle.

Well.... Proper torquing technique does state that the torque is to be measured on nut and bolts with clean, dry threads.

If you're thinking to use a torque wrench on lubricated or dirty [worn] threads, don't bother, it'll not be of any use. Let's recall that the whole purpose of applying the stated torque to a threaded fastener is to produce the designed preload (usually bolt/stud stretch) when tightening it. If you are using unlike male/female thread materials, probably standard torque tables don't apply anyway.

As for oil pan threads, yeah, I torque the plug properly - it's not that hard. Decades ago, following a dealer oil change, I drove to the airport to pick up my mom. When we returned to the car, it was the one surrounded by a pool of oil - in the really expensive by the 5 minutes parking area. Fortunately I knew of a repair shop just outside the airport parking, and drove there with probably no oil in it. The repair tech had stripped the oil pan plug, and pushed in some funny rubber plug in it's place - it hadn't stayed in place. The dealer then had a repair to pay for which was much more costly than a torque wrench!

 

[5030]

Well.... Proper torquing technique does state that the torque is to be measured on nut and bolts with clean, dry threads.

Not always. There are dry and wet torque specs.

 

[Bobrown14]

I've owned Hondas for years. Just get a new crush washer and replace it every time you loosen the pan bolt. Tighten enough there's no leak and good to go. Been doing oil changes for my whole life never needed to use a torque wrench. Just test drive after change and check the pan for a drip.

The one time recently I had a local shop change my oil they used a wrong size crush washer that looked to be used prior. I had a drip and after a few days crawled under to inspect the drip. Yup the wrong size crush washer. So I had to change my oil again and install a new crush washer. Buy a 10 pack and dont tighten down bolt its not a rocket, use common sense dont over tighten and check for leaks at the pan bolt after changing. Yer good.

 

[hunt4570]

I rarely use a torque wrench. All they do is measure resistance to turning, and that is too often affected by things like thread wear, different materials - steel bolt into an aluminum pan, type of washer - or not, type of lube or not, dirt, and wrench angle.

There comes a time for old mechanics when they have tightened enough bolts to prefer to trust their own feel. Sometimes I check it with a torque wrench if doing something where it needs to be very even. Head bolts. rod nuts. clutch plates. Not single bolts.

It would be different in laboratory controlled conditions, or for someone just learning. For those times or for mine above, I use & recommend a simple inexpensive beam & pointer torque wrench. It never needs adjustment because it can't be wrong, it reads ft and inch pounds or metric all on the same scale, and can be bought in the 20 dollar range..

rScotty

View attachment 782332

I have one of those guys, I've probably had it for close to 50 years!

 

[jc21]

Thoughts/suggestions?

I have a 1/2" drive Made In The USA S.K.Wayne clicker type I bought on sale a decade or so ago which is painful reminder of inflation. It currently runs about $250- I paid well less than half of that. Their 3/8" drive (10-100 ft/lbs) clicker type runs about $220.
For budget/value tools Craftsman used to be my go to but these days it's a brand called Tekton. Quality stuff at a great price- their SAE and metric impact sockets I have compare more than favorably with the Snap On/ Blue Point and Craftsman tools I own. Tekton has a 3/8" drive clicker type (10-80-ft lb) aka a "micrometer type for about $48 (Amazon) .... just ordered it today as I've got a bunch of equipment to get ready for spring.

Imho a torque wrench is good insurance. I've successfully used the "by feel" method for many, many years but what I've found as I've gotten older (turn 70 this year) and no longer using hand tools on a daily basis and the onset of arthritis/gout that "feel" is nowhere as good as it used to be.

 

[Jims1025R]

Not always. There are dry and wet torque specs.

Fair enough, but at least it's specified.

For the aircraft fasteners I work with, I have never seen a "wet" torque spec. I presume that what the "wet" is is pretty closely specified, as different liquids [lubricants] can have a large effect on the torque to bolt tension ratio.