torque wrench recommendation

[nh_bota]

I wasn't sure where in TBN to post this, so here goes...

I need to replace the front brakes on my Suburban and so I need to finally get a 1/2" torque wrench (I have a 3/8" inch-lb wrench). Craftsman offers a beam-type wrench (1/2" 150lbs) for $30, which seems like a good deal. It's not the click-type, but I'm thinking it would be sufficient for my weekend warrior needs. I could also use it on my Kubota tractor when/if the need arises. Thoughts? Recommendations? Any major drawbacks with the beam vs. click wrenches (besides the need to have clear sight of the scale while tightening)?

Thanks,
Terry

 

[banjodunn]

G'day terry go for the click type you don't always have good line of sight to the scale on the deflecting beam type and if you look at an angle you don't get the same reading


Jon

 

[Welshman]

Any major drawbacks with the beam vs. click wrenches (besides the need to have clear sight of the scale while tightening)?

Thanks,
Terry

This IS (in my opinion) the major drawback. I've had beam wrenches for years, and they're perfectly suitable most of the time. But there are too many times when you just can't see the indicator. I recently put brakes on my car, with it raised on jackstands. The beam wrench was useless, as the caliper bolts and mount bolts faced "in". Had I been working on a lift it would have been fine. Also, there are times with higher torque spec's (and you're weak - like me) that in order to get enough leverage, you can't always position yourself to read the indicator.

 

[BeeferMan]

IMO the two types of wrenches are suitable for different tasks. The beam type are good for things like preloading bearing, the click type for about everything else. I'm not sure what good 150 ft lbs beam type really is, except places where you probably don't really need a torque wrench anyway, like wheel lugs.

One trick you can use if all you've got is a beam type and you can't see the scale, or (even with a click type if can't get the torque wrench on the bolt/nut in question) - tighten one you can see/access to a few pounds below spec, then use another wrench to tighten it just enough to move it and get a feel for the force required. Then apply that force to the problematic one using the same length wrench. You can get very close, typically within 5%. Test it out in a non-critical spot to see how well you do.

 

[20 20]

check out Harbor Freight, I bought 2 click type on sale use one all of the time have not even opened the other{bought it just incase}. Works great and best of all cheap.

 

[nh_bota]

Thanks everyone -- your responses are very helpful. Sounds like a click-type is in order!

 

[Wayne County Hose]

I've got a couple Snap-on click types and love them but I do a lot of engine work too so I need the accuracy. Just bought a new one that beeps for inch pounds. Don't know if I like that one or not. Honestly, in your case, I would buy a good beam one before I would buy a cheap (HF) click type. Probably more important than getting the exact ft lb reading is to get all the bolts a consistent reading. What warps rotors is lug nuts being waaaaay too tight and some being way tighter than others. For lug nuts, I like the torque limiting extensions. I have tested these with a torque wrench and found them very reliable. I rotate the tires on my Ranger with these every 5,000 miles. I have over 100,000 miles now and have the original rotors with no pulsation at all.

 

[Charlesaf3]

the harbor freight click type actually seems to work fine (not a guarantee with HF stuff). Probably at least the same quality as that craftsman

 

[dodge man]

As I recall, the dial type (not mentioned) is the most accurate. I have a click type in foot lbs and a beam type in inch pounds. At one time I compared my Craftsman click type to a dial style and it was pretty much exactly the same.

The beam type is great if you have enough room and an easy swing. To me the crtical part of the beam type is getting a nice smooth steady swing. Also if you don't have the handle square to what you are tighting, it seems the dial can hang up and drag on the scale indicator and not give you an accurate reading. It all depends on what you are using it for. Some things are very critical, such as bearing caps inside an engine. Other things are less so. I use a torque wrench on my lug nuts, it its off a little bit for that who cares.

 

[20 20]

the harbor freight click type actually seems to work fine (not a guarantee with HF stuff). Probably at least the same quality as that craftsman

I use my atleast weekly and have never had a problem, had it for 4 yrs+ now.

 

[Dargo]

I can't recommend a Horrible Freight toque wrench to anyone if any sort of accuracy is important. And, if accuracy isn't important, why do you need a torque wrench anyway? Several years ago I was working on an old Honda Odyssey clutch and used my brand new Horrible Freight torque wrench to set the torque on the driven clutch. Due to the wrench being off so much, I snapped the bolt off and spent dozens of hours fixing the damage done due to a pathetic quality torque wrench. I stopped by a local pawn shop and bought a Mac torque wrench and stopped by a local shop to have it calibrated. It happened to be dead on the way it was. I asked the person there about a Horrible Freight torque wrench and, needless to say, he rather strongly advised against them if you need any accuracy. Again, if I don't need accuracy, why use a torque wrench in the first place? The high quality used Mac didn't cost me any more than the junk HF and I now have a very nice tool.

 

[Charlesaf3]

Dargo, I'm getting a worse and worse impression of HF stuff, so I understand what you are saying. Some of it is actually worthwhile though - I've had good luck with wrenches and the like.

I guess I should say my HF torque wrench seems good. And I figured it was simple enough they couldn't mess it up. Any idea on how to check a torque wrench without buying another one to compare to?

 

[Dargo]

Dargo, I'm getting a worse and worse impression of HF stuff, so I understand what you are saying. Some of it is actually worthwhile though - I've had good luck with wrenches and the like.

I was bragging about a particular set of 6 pt. sockets and ratchet that I bought there and then made the big mistake; I went to buy another set for my other barn. Junk! The ratchet was nowhere near the quality of the one I purchased there just a month earlier. I went to take it back and exchange it but, much to my dismay, all of the others they had were really crappy as well. The ratchets felt rough, they'd hang, they wouldn't ratchet right and in general were just plain junk. I don't get it. The one set I have feel every bit as good as a Snap-On set and have a wonderful quality feel to them. The same freakin' thing now is not worth taking home if it's free because you can't change direction (on and off) without using a set of pliers and the overall feel is just plain terrible. Here's the exact thing I'm talking about - Harbor Freight Tools - Quality Tools at the Lowest Prices I have one set in 3/8" that is wonderful. I took the next set back and tried every set they had in the store and they were absolutely terrible. Talk about frustrating! Just when I thought I found an absolutely amazing deal on something that I feel is fantastic I get into a whole load of inventory of that exact same item that is nothing but junk!

Anyway, I went into my mini-rant because I feel it's entirely possible that you may get a great torque wrench for a great price, but based on my experience, the odds seem to be against you. The clerk there kept telling me that I ought to keep the socket set because they are guaranteed for a lifetime. The problem is that the darn things don't work at the store! Why take them home??? I'd buy another set in a heartbeat if it was like the first set.

 

[mwb]

I am the manager of a calibration lab and we calibrate thousands of wrenches every year for military, aviation and automotive industries. My recommendation would be:

- don't bother buying HF or Powerfist click types - they can't be adjusted and parts are not available. We have calibrated these brand new out of the box and they typically fail. Our lab will not try to adjust or repair these.

- I don't recommend hardware store (Craftsman, Mastercraft) click types; they do work but are not very reliable and they are also difficult to service

- Gray Tools, Proto, Mac and Snap-on, Norbar are all good wrenches. Norbar, Snap-on and Mac cost too much for the average DIY, Proto might be more affordable and is a very good wrench (I have one at home).

- Beam wrenches are very reliable, no matter what make. As long as the needle returns to zero they will perform within specs. I am not aware of any beam type being rejected by our lab. These are very inexpensive wrenches and you can buy ratchet heads for them.

- click types are very convenient to use; never store them preset, always return them to their lowest setting or the spring will fatigue. These have a lot of internal pieces and are more prone to failure, this is why quality is important. These are difficult to repair (parts, etc) and adjustment is more time consuming.

- dial types are essentially beam types with a gear drive. Very reliable but hard to read in awkward positions; some have memory needles, many Snap-on's have a light that illuminates when you reach your torque setting. Repair to these typically involves straightening or adjusting the dial drive after someone over-torqued it, or replacing a smashed dial cover (bezel).

If I was going to the moon and needed a wrench I would opt for the beam type and add a ratchet driver in case I needed it. It also happens to be the least expensive option. The accuracy spec difference between a beam and others is not much; if better accuracy is important then you need to spend the money and get the better quality tool.

Cheers,
Mike

 

[mwb]

Dargo, I'm getting a worse and worse impression of HF stuff, so I understand what you are saying. Some of it is actually worthwhile though - I've had good luck with wrenches and the like.

I guess I should say my HF torque wrench seems good. And I figured it was simple enough they couldn't mess it up. Any idea on how to check a torque wrench without buying another one to compare to?

You can check it yourself with a "fish scale". Assuming your HF fish scale is accurate you can measure with a ruler from the center of the drive to the center of your handle and then apply a force at that point using the scale. Clamp the drive in a vise (using an old socket, not the wrench) or stuff it on a big old bolt on your tractor and apply the load perpendicular to the handle; you will need someone else to watch the scale for the maximum reading. Repeat a few times. Force x distance = torque (inches x lbs = in lbs); to convert to ft lbs, just divide by 12.

Mike

 

[BimmerRacer]

I have two, a 3/8" Snap On and a 1/2" SK/Facom. Love them both.

 

[ccsial]

I recently bought a computorq3 ratchet & digital torque wrench made by CDI which is a division of SK tools.

It was pricey but really fantastic. Set the torque in the digital readout window. The LED turns yellow when it is getting close and then green. It also beeps when the torque is hit. It then displays the final torque. Really nice tool.

My clicker bit the dust finally so I went digital. If you have a clicker be sure to unload the spring each time your done before you put it away.

 

[texasjohn]

I bought a HF clicker torque.... it broke the first time I sought to use it at a high setting... exactly what I bought it for.... I can't recommend it..I took it back and got my $$ back.

 

[Redneck in training]

I admit ignorance. I have Craftsman clicker for years and use it often. I never unloaded the spring though. Perhaps I should check the calibration and handle the tool as recomended or better yet get some with proven quality. Thaks for the education.

 

[Wayne County Hose]

I am the manager of a calibration lab and we calibrate thousands of wrenches every year for military, aviation and automotive industries. My recommendation would be:

- don't bother buying HF or Powerfist click types - they can't be adjusted and parts are not available. We have calibrated these brand new out of the box and they typically fail. Our lab will not try to adjust or repair these.

- I don't recommend hardware store (Craftsman, Mastercraft) click types; they do work but are not very reliable and they are also difficult to service

- Gray Tools, Proto, Mac and Snap-on, Norbar are all good wrenches. Norbar, Snap-on and Mac cost too much for the average DIY, Proto might be more affordable and is a very good wrench (I have one at home).

- Beam wrenches are very reliable, no matter what make. As long as the needle returns to zero they will perform within specs. I am not aware of any beam type being rejected by our lab. These are very inexpensive wrenches and you can buy ratchet heads for them.

- click types are very convenient to use; never store them preset, always return them to their lowest setting or the spring will fatigue. These have a lot of internal pieces and are more prone to failure, this is why quality is important. These are difficult to repair (parts, etc) and adjustment is more time consuming.

- dial types are essentially beam types with a gear drive. Very reliable but hard to read in awkward positions; some have memory needles, many Snap-on's have a light that illuminates when you reach your torque setting. Repair to these typically involves straightening or adjusting the dial drive after someone over-torqued it, or replacing a smashed dial cover (bezel).

If I was going to the moon and needed a wrench I would opt for the beam type and add a ratchet driver in case I needed it. It also happens to be the least expensive option. The accuracy spec difference between a beam and others is not much; if better accuracy is important then you need to spend the money and get the better quality tool.

Cheers,
Mike

The above should have been the last post of this thread. You can't get any better torque wrench advice than that.