Top Link replacement

[RoyJackson]

Well I picked one up from TSC this morning for $20.00. I brought mine along to check the length and size of the hole on the bushing. Got home and... it's a little too wide to fit in the top link hardware (see pic). Guess I can file it down? It was the only Cat 1 they stocked.

Yep, grind it down. Just make sure you clean up any chips and metallic dust when you're done.

Don't toss your old one...several posts have described how you may salvage it...I suggest you try to do that and keep it as a spare.
BTW, I spray my top link's threads (and everything else!) with fluid film. Try it...

 

[PHILIP8N]

Well I picked one up from TSC this morning for $20.00. I brought mine along to check the length and size of the hole on the bushing. Got home and... it's a little too wide to fit in the top link hardware (see pic). Guess I can file it down? It was the only Cat 1 they stocked.

Do you have a category '0' by chance?

Adjustable Top Link, Category 0 - 0267733 | Tractor Supply Company

 

[snpower]

Do you have a category '0' by chance?

Adjustable Top Link, Category 0 - 0267733 | Tractor Supply Company

All literature I've seen/read on the BX2360 points to a Cat 1 hitch.

 

[PHILIP8N]

All literature I've seen/read on the BX2360 points to a Cat 1 hitch.

I don't think the BX is a true Cat 1. Check out that link and see if that fits better.

Here is another useful link.
http://www.speeco.com/images/UserFiles/Forged Top Links.pdf

But as been said before, a little heat, a little penetrator, and a little tapping with a hammer, and your old one should be good as new. Just add some grease or anti-seeze. Philip.

 

[snpower]

I don't think the BX is a true Cat 1. Check out that link and see if that fits better.

Here is another useful link.
http://www.speeco.com/images/UserFiles/Forged Top Links.pdf

But as been said before, a little heat, a little penetrator, and a little tapping with a hammer, and your old one should be good as new. Just add some grease or anti-seeze. Philip.

You might be right. The one I picked up is in fact a little too long after all!

Using a blow torch and a 30 inch piece of pipe I can move the screw some. It's still impossible to move it by hand. There are four access ports on the link itself and I have filled the one side with PB. Not sure why, once it's unstuck, it's still so hard to move unless some cross threading has occurred.

Don't know what I'd do without everyone on this forum; after a year + of owning this tractor I feel like I'm still a newbie.

 

[snpower]

The Cat 0 from TSC has different size holes and doesn't extend enough to make full use of the implements.

 

[RoyJackson]

The Cat 0 from TSC has different size holes and doesn't extend enough to make full use of the implements.

At this point, I think your best bet is to ante up and buy a replacement from Kubota.

 

[snpower]

At this point, I think your best bet is to ante up and buy a replacement from Kubota.

My thoughts exactly.

However, I just ordered a Tisco JSA1009 which I have read about from others using it as a very good replacement for the stock Kubota one. $16.00 + $10.00 shipping. I'll be greasing/lubing the threads as soon as it arrives.

 

[nue2farm]

I have/had a problem with my toplink also. I will try some of the ideas here. Last time I really put the whoop on it I had to get my right shoulder repaired.......

 

[RoyJackson]

Since toplinks are the topic...for those of us who have quick hitches, and the top link may not be adjusted often, again I'll recommend Fluid Film or an equivalent lubricant/rust preventative.
Much easier to prevent corrosion then fix it after the fact, eh?