Top Link Pin - Homemade ballast box

[RobR]

I have a question regarding the top link pin size. Would it be a good idea to use a 1/2" pin as the pin when attaching a homemade ballast weight? I am building a concrete block (~350 lbs) for my BX1500. I have a 1/2" pin from an old hitch receiver and was wondering if I can use that? Or do I need to purchase a 3/4" pin?

 

[easygo]

I'd say you should be fine with the 1/2" pin for the top link (only) if used for the ballast box. The top link only holds the the ballast upright, there is no other forces on it.

However! If you ever get another implement such as a grader blade or box blade you should get the proper diameter pin. There is a lot more push/pull force involved when using those.

 

[David Devuono]

easygo is correct that 1/2 inch would be strong enough but proper size pins are cheap at under $10 and you won't get get any clunking with the extra play.

 

[kennyd]

easygo is correct that 1/2 inch would be strong enough but proper size pins are cheap at under $10 and you won't get get any clunking with the extra play.

I agree 100%, and that extra play could damage the ball in the top link. Pins are cheap.

 

[radioman]

I agree , half inch will work, but do you want to have it rattle back there a bit and hear it everytime you stop ? besides, If you are building a concrete ballast, now is the time to add i the 2 inch receiver tube before concrete is set so you can slide in a hitch when you need to tow something.

 

[RobR]

Looks like 3/4" is the answer. I appreciate all of the feedback. Thank you!

Rob

 

[TobyH]

Don't forget pictures of the ballast box!

 

[RobR]

When I get it built I will share some pictures...

One more thing. I just realized that I need a 3/4 hole in the piece steel I have. That $10 pin just got a bit more expensive.... hmmm... Maybe a piece of pipe used as a bushing? 1/2 inner with 3/4 outer diameter.... just a thought.

I will have to see where to get a bit that big.

 

[Soundguy]

I believe you will need (2) 3/4 holes... one on either side of the toplink.. from there.. you could use a cat 0-1 bushing and use that 1/2" bolt.. etc.

soundguy

 

[jas67]

I agree , half inch will work, but do you want to have it rattle back there a bit and hear it everytime you stop ? besides, If you are building a concrete ballast, now is the time to add i the 2 inch receiver tube before concrete is set so you can slide in a hitch when you need to tow something.

I second this comment (I didn't think about doing this to mine until it was too late -- what a pain having to switch between the counterweight and the hitch).

 

[easygo]

When I get it built I will share some pictures...

One more thing. I just realized that I need a 3/4 hole in the piece steel I have. That $10 pin just got a bit more expensive.... hmmm... Maybe a piece of pipe used as a bushing? 1/2 inner with 3/4 outer diameter.... just a thought.

I will have to see where to get a bit that big.

Look into getting a step-bit that goes from about 1/4" to 5/8". You can drill holes into material about 3/16 thick and it goes a lot easier then if you bought a 3/4" drill bit. Don't ask me how I know that on a large (1/2" and up) size bit it is very easy to chip the cutting edges and also very easy to drill triangular shaped holes. I don't have a drill press and a hand-held drill makes it all that much harder to complete these tasks. Good luck.

 

[framer]

Hello Robr. Welcome to tbn.I have a suggestion for your weight box i welded plate to mount trailer ball to. Works well don't have to take of to put hitch
on if you have trailers to move around.Also thought about a receiver hitch
mounted to bottom for different attachments extra weight would be nice.
Haven'T done that yet. Good luck. Framer