Top link extension on the tractor.

   / Top link extension on the tractor. #21  
Yes the dimensions of the actual hitch ends are standardized for pin sizes as well as spacing and attachment point widths, but the actual draft arm lengths as well as top link lengths are all up to the manufacturers.

All I'm getting at is that NONE of this stuff is a one size fits all application as it had seemed that some were thinking in earlier posts. (Maybe I simply mis understood what was being said??) It can vary from model size to model size and from manufacturer to manufacturer as to what the working length requirements may be.

Yes ^^^^ and that's why your so dang busy!:thumbsup:
Your above throughly informed response here will only add to your success (and backlog) .:laughing:
 
   / Top link extension on the tractor. #22  
This is the one I plan to copy: View attachment 554898

It was mentioned that he chose not to have the 3rd hole as he thought it might interfere with his PTO cover.

I suspect that, were one to need the lower hole, this could simply be moved down, leaving the top hole uncovered.

I hope this works as well as I expect.

You saved me having to scrounge a pic. That's mine. It rides in the chain box so it's always available.
 
   / Top link extension on the tractor.
  • Thread Starter
#23  
This is the one I plan to copy: View attachment 554898

I like this design much better than mine. I wish I had seen this before I did it the way I did.

It looks like you have a top link with an 8" stroke. There are many different stroke top links available as well as overall working lengths. It is not a one size fits all type of thing.

For your models of tractor I typically supply a 12" stroke unit having a working length of 23 1/4"- 35 1/4". This seems to work well for the cat 1-2 L series tractors as well as the MX series machines.

My wife is the parts person at a small tractor dealership. She got me the two I have. Before buying the second one, I searched the internet for a longer stroke that would also fit my tractor on the tractor side. This was the only one I could find. If you have one that has a longer stroke and will fit into the L 6060, please send me a PM with details. I will need to do something for my L5740.
 
   / Top link extension on the tractor. #24  
You saved me having to scrounge a pic. That's mine. It rides in the chain box so it's always available.

How much extension does your's provide? If you did it again, would you go with the same amount?

I'm trying to decide how much to go. Pat's adds 4" to lift arms.

Current TL range is 19.5 - 28.5

I'm toying with anywhere from 5" to 7" of extension. Can't think of much downside to going with 7" as it would give the greatest range.
 
   / Top link extension on the tractor. #25  
3.5"...
 
   / Top link extension on the tractor. #26  
I took a bunch of measurements of the TL bracket on my tractor and am drawing up plans to take to a machine shop to have them cut and drill the steel.

I am not a machinist. I used a caliper for the measurements but know that I'm perfectly capable of messing them up.

What I got for the three holes was:

.75" in diameter, just like the pin. I'll probably ask the machinist to drill them at 13/16" so the pin will move freely.
1.81" center to center
Rear edge is Approx .8" from back of bracket
Front edges are: .62" (Top), .63" (Mid) and .64" (bottom) from front edge of bracket

Bracket "walls" are 4.4" tall and they are 2" apart inside.

If anyone else has an M7060 and has measured, I'd appreciate your input. I think i may make up something out of wood to check thes measurements before I have the machinist cut the steel.
 
   / Top link extension on the tractor.
  • Thread Starter
#27  
I'm not sure why, but when we went to unhook the implement today, the PTO shaft had been forced and jammed onto the tractor.

I don't know if the extension I made had anything to do with causing this. This is only the second time I use this implement, and the first time, I did not have the extension on the top link. I really don't think the extension caused the shaft to jam, but something did.

I was using it on a golf course and I did climb up some pretty steep slopes while using it, so maybe I jammed it while coming down a hill.

This is the root pruner I had on the tractor, but this video was taken before adding the extension.
 
   / Top link extension on the tractor. #28  
You're PTO shaft is definitely too long. I would not use it again until fixed. You won't like the results if you continue.....
 
   / Top link extension on the tractor.
  • Thread Starter
#29  
You're PTO shaft is definitely too long. I would not use it again until fixed. You won't like the results if you continue.....

You are probably right. I did watch this video several times and ended up cutting 6" off the shaft before I ever used the Root Pruner. Not sure why it still jammed.

 
   / Top link extension on the tractor. #30  
You're PTO shaft is definitely too long. I would not use it again until fixed. You won't like the results if you continue.....

Agree with overszd. The driveshaft had to be too long to get jammed as you describe. But take a good look at the side view you show in post #27. All you had to do was shorten the top link (using your hydraulic top link) and that compresses the driveshaft if everything is right in the same position you show in the picture. That's probably HOW you jammed it but that does not change the fact of the apparently too long drive shaft. This might seem insultingly simple but I will go ahead and say it anyway:

You need to find the very shortest length that the driveshaft could ever be caused to have. Measure that with the driveshaft completely off the machine and out of the way.
Then find the longest length that the driveshaft could be pulled outward to during utilization. Measure that length. The driveshaft then needs to be cut such that it can telescope between those two extremes while leaving plenty of inner/outer overlap so it cannot pull apart. I prefer to do that cutting with the plastic shrouds completely off and out of the picture too. After the metal is cut and checked for correct length, then go back and cut the plastic safety shrouds to match and reassemble everything.
 
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