toothbar theories

[KB4330]

There is a fix for this. You could cut a slot in the toothbar retainer arms where currently there is a single bolt hole. Cut the slot starting in the existing bolt hole and moving an inch or two so you can loosen the bolt, slide the toothbar forward enough to allow it to pivot up and out of the way.

I think there are a few guys on TBN that have already made that modification. It would still take a few minutes to loosen bolts, pivot toothbar and tighten up again but it would give you your straight bucket edge back.

The Marham bars come that way. It is nice. A couple of wrenches in the toolbox and it only takes a couple of minutes.

 

[IslandTractor]

The Marham bars come that way. It is nice. A couple of wrenches in the toolbox and it only takes a couple of minutes.

How old is your toothbar. My Markham has only a single bolt hold drilled and the rest of the tab is too short to drill out and create a slot. Too bad for me but you have a nice feature on yours.

 

[KB4330]

How old is your toothbar. My Markham has only a single bolt hold drilled and the rest of the tab is too short to drill out and create a slot. Too bad for me but you have a nice feature on yours.

I want to say it's been around 6-8 mo. since I got it. Maybe it's something new they have started as I didn't even think to ask about that feature when I was ordering it.

KB

 

[wayupnth]

I have a heavy duty JD bucket with a bolt on, replacable cutting edge. They make a toothbar for it but you need to undo a bunch of bolts to change from one to the other. All of the 3rd party toothbars (Markham, etc) seem to not be compatible with the JD replacable edges. Anyone have a good solution other than changing the edge (cutting vs toothbar) each time or owning 2 buckets?

 

[IslandTractor]

I have a heavy duty JD bucket with a bolt on, replacable cutting edge. They make a toothbar for it but you need to undo a bunch of bolts to change from one to the other. All of the 3rd party toothbars (Markham, etc) seem to not be compatible with the JD replacable edges. Anyone have a good solution other than changing the edge (cutting vs toothbar) each time or owning 2 buckets?

I imagine most toothbars are not compatable with the bolt on cutting edges because the bolts can interfer with the bar that the teeth are welded to. I would think that a local welding shop could custom make a bar that spaced the teeth precisely so they did not interfer with the bolts.

 

[hazmat]

I have a heavy duty JD bucket with a bolt on, replacable cutting edge. They make a toothbar for it but you need to undo a bunch of bolts to change from one to the other. All of the 3rd party toothbars (Markham, etc) seem to not be compatible with the JD replacable edges. Anyone have a good solution other than changing the edge (cutting vs toothbar) each time or owning 2 buckets?

ATI makes one that is compatible with bolt on cutting edge. It ain't cheap though - $350+...

See page 23 ATI 2007 catalog (pdf)

 

[schmism]

ATI makes one that is compatible with bolt on cutting edge. It ain't cheap though - $350+...

my weld on toof's that i put on set me back $140....

 

[wayupnth]

Thanks Hazmat, you are exactly right with the ATI link

 

[frj777]

This is a great forum!!!

I used it to purchase my John Deere 790 with fel, then later I used it on an upgrade to a Kubota 3130 with HD fel.

Today I used it to locate the good deal on a tooth bar.

I just ordered a tooth bar from Markham, in fact I ordered it from Melissa Markum a very pleasant experience. I ordered it from the person who answered the phone and she was able to answer all my questions.

It will be shipped Monday, she will call Tuesday to advise on its eta.

Thanks everybody!

Fred

 

[rvtech]

Another opinion. I have a toothbar I ordered shortly after I got my 2305 J.D. I don't like it. I have used it 3 different times with no success. It may just be me, but I can't get it to work in clay and rock and that's all there is here in Ohio. I loose traction while trying to dig. It makes my 2305 wheel hop to the extreme. I can't back drag without removing it. I have much better success moving dirt with a tiller and loader without the toothbar. I could see where it may be useful for moving brush, but I never do that.

 

[LBrown59]

Another opinion. I have a toothbar I ordered shortly after I got my 2305 J.D. I don't like it. I have used it 3 different times with no success. It may just be me, but
I loose traction while trying to dig. It makes my 2305 wheel hop to the extreme. I can't back drag without removing it.
1*I have much better success moving dirt with a tiller and loader without the toothbar.
2*I can't get it to work in clay and rock and that's all there is here in Ohio.
I could see where it may be useful for moving brush, but I never do that.

1*I'm with you on that.
I much prefer a tiller over a tooth bar.
For breaking up the ground I have 2 tillers.
1 on a 67 Bolens and the other on a CC 2554 .
The BX23 BH is a splendid breaker upper also.
Especially on the tops of dirt piles where tillers and tooth bars can't go.
2*We have clay here in OHIO at the junction of the Ohio & Miskingum Rivers.
Rock is not a problem on my 2.33 acre share of Washington County.

We went through Sunbury many times for several years going to visit my wife's sister who lived in Delaware Ohio from the early seventies to 1985.

 

[Sparticus]

The answer is, bigger tractor,four wheel drive ,and locking traction. The question was how do we dig in Ohio clay. With one wheel drive penetration is poor before loss of traction. Leave the roots and rocks to the backhoe, when not clearing hard packed clay out of it.

 

[LBrown59]

The answer is,four wheel drive ,and locking traction. .

I thot the 2305 was this

 

[SkunkWerX]

I haven't removed my toothbar since installing it.
Digging MUCH better.
Clearing MUCH better.
Grappling MUCH better.
Moving piles of "stuff" MUCH better.

I'd like to add to those saying toothbars are better for dense materials.
I have been moving woodchips, 10 yard loads , and I am on my 5th or 6th load. The toothbar also allows better/easier penetration into woodchips and mulch piles, for all the same reasons.

Mine will be removed for snow clean-up. That's about the only thing I can think of, at my place that will require "sans toothbar".

My buddy down the street has horses, and for stall/barn cleaning he needs the virgin straight edge on his bucket for scooping off of the floor and scraping everything out the back door. In this case the bucket is a giant dust pan.
But, once the manure/bedding is outside, I have noticed when moving/working his manure piles, the toothbar would be much more efficient.

The toothbar is a major improvement and makes you more productive. This saves time and fuel. You could probably make the case that in it's usable lifespan, the toothbar pays for itself.

I vote [x]YES for Toothbars!!

 

[Loogie]

Another opinion. I have a toothbar I ordered shortly after I got my 2305 J.D. I don't like it. I have used it 3 different times with no success. It may just be me, but I can't get it to work in clay and rock and that's all there is here in Ohio. I loose traction while trying to dig. It makes my 2305 wheel hop to the extreme. I can't back drag without removing it. I have much better success moving dirt with a tiller and loader without the toothbar. I could see where it may be useful for moving brush, but I never do that.

You need to change your digging technique. The 2305 is a small tractor so you need to take smaller bites. It will still dig just fine in rocks & clay (what I have) and the toothbar will make it MUCH better. Just take your time. If you are getting wheel hop then you're trying to take too much at once. I promise that even with smaller bites, using your toothbar and digging will be faster than using a tiller first and then cleaning it up with the bucket.

I just had some grading work done at my house and even the pros with a BIG skidloader were taking pretty small bites. Packed ground isn't like mulch or topsoil. They would often use a technique of pointing the bucket at the ground and backing up to use the toothbar to break up the ground. This technique is NOT recommended for the 2305! The skid loaders and some larger tractors are made to handle the stress on the cylinder arms, but ours is not.

 

[hill]

You need to change your digging technique. The 2305 is a small tractor so you need to take smaller bites. It will still dig just fine in rocks & clay (what I have) and the toothbar will make it MUCH better. Just take your time. If you are getting wheel hop then you're trying to take too much at once. I promise that even with smaller bites, using your toothbar and digging will be faster than using a tiller first and then cleaning it up with the bucket.

I just had some grading work done at my house and even the pros with a BIG skidloader were taking pretty small bites. Packed ground isn't like mulch or topsoil. They would often use a technique of pointing the bucket at the ground and backing up to use the toothbar to break up the ground. This technique is NOT recommended for the 2305! The skid loaders and some larger tractors are made to handle the stress on the cylinder arms, but ours is not.

Agreed.

I don't think of my loader as a digging tool but when using it to forwarrd scrape brush and topsoil I can't do it if I angle the teeth down much from level. It'll dig in and raise my front wheels off the ground and quickly stop the tractor forward progress. A small adjustment of the bucket angle upward in relation to the ground gets me going again.

Toothbars would gain entry and make the initial ground breaking much easier in clay, I'd think, but it's got to be done actively with a good feel for what's going on up there where you can't see much.

 

[sandman2234]

I don't have a FEL, but with todays quick attach buckets, I would think that a second bucket would be the trick. One with, one without the tooth bar.
David from jax

 

[elulofs]

Howdy,
I just found this site. I have been a farmer for only one year- not even any crops in the ground yet! I married a farm girl, so she has an opinion about every detail of running the farm... My question:

I'd like to put a tooth bar on my JD 4210 27 hp tractor. My wife says that the load would blow the hydraulic lines. I have already carried bucket loads of rocks and hopped the front wheels when scraping.

I would think that an overload on the hydraulics would just not lift, scrap, or otherwise move. Surely, i can't blow the hydraulic lines on the loader?!

Thanks for your opinions.
Ed

 

[unreconstructed]

I have a landscape bar from H&H Manufacturing. Has helped the digging, grubs up prickley pear fairly well, and sure did a fine job of getting that dead stinking deer out of my old goat barn--the deer would not have fit in my bucket but the bar was enough to scoop him up.

 

[3RRL]

Howdy,
I just found this site. I have been a farmer for only one year- not even any crops in the ground yet! I married a farm girl, so she has an opinion about every detail of running the farm... My question:

I'd like to put a tooth bar on my JD 4210 27 hp tractor. My wife says that the load would blow the hydraulic lines. I have already carried bucket loads of rocks and hopped the front wheels when scraping.

I would think that an overload on the hydraulics would just not lift, scrap, or otherwise move. Surely, i can't blow the hydraulic lines on the loader?!

Thanks for your opinions.
Ed

Hi Ed and welcome to TBN.
No, you should not "blow a hose" by adding a toothbar. Your fel lift capacity will remain the same minus the weight of the toothbar. Generally, there is a pressure relief valve that prevents blow outs. If you've had heavy loads in your fel bucket, ones you couldn't lift, then it is working fine.