Toothbar is it worth it?

[RonC]

I am going to answere my own question. It most certainly is. I purchased mine from Carver. Went to Lowes and bought a holesaw and had it installed in less than 30 minutes. It has increased my productivity 100%. I have a JD 770 FWD with a 54 inch bucket and I am doing work I could not possibly have done without the toothbar. I strongly recommend purchasing one, you won't regret it. It is well worth the money I paid for it and it has already paid for itself. Just my 2 cents worth. /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif

 

[ikline]

Couldn't agree more /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif

 

[adegiulio]

You used a holesaw to install the toothbar? Those must be some big bolts!! /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif

 

[Bigfinn]

Ron, I agree. The only thing I dislike is that in order to do a nice backblading/leveling job I find it neccesary to take it off.

 

[rockyridgefarm]

Does anyone make a quick attach or foldaway toothbar? I agree that it would be handy to have, but we grade with the bucket a lot, also.

 

[GrayBeard]

What's the average cost of a 4' one ?
GrayBeard

 

[zuiko]

What kind of holesaw did you use? I have a unibit that I plan to use to do the job.

 

[PineRidge]

Zuiko I don't think Unibits were designed to work on heavy steel plate. It might work but I would try a hole-saw first.

 

[Henro]

The bolts on my toothbar are 1" and it took a hole saw about 15 seconds to cut each hole. Maybe it was only ten seconds...real fast.

Smaller holes needed, the unibit or regular drill bit would probably just as fast... /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif

 

[SteveH_CT]

Hey Ron - would you do me a favor - what are you able to do that you couldn't before? I don't have a toothbar, but my bucket does have a bolt-on cutting edge. I can't imagine it would take long to swap em out ... I'm just curious what I'd gain with it.

Thanks,

 

[PineRidge]

Steve until you try one you will never know what you are missing. When I bought my TC-40D I didn't have a toothbar either, just the replaceable edge that you speak of. I just recently put a toothbar on the bucket and ran up in the open field to see for myself. There is no comparison, really.

 

[Mark_in_NH]

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( The only thing I dislike is that in order to do a nice backblading/leveling job I find it neccesary to take it off.
)</font>

This is exactly the reason that I don't have one.

 

[NIXON]

The only thing I dislike is that in order to do a nice backblading/leveling job I find it neccesary to take it off.

This is exactly the reason that I don't have one. )</font>


Maybe I missed the point entirely . It has happened on occasion /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif
But if I'm Leveling something with the bucket ,and the tooth bar is on , I use the back of the bucket to do the leveling .
I find it works better than using the front of the bucket .
In fact I now use the back of the bucket rather than the front regardless of having the bar on or off . JMHO . John

 

[MadDog]

Steve: I agree w/what PineRidge is telling you; if you are using your FEL to excavate, as opposed to just moving earth or other materials that are already piled up, there is just no comparison as to the effectiveness of the FEL w/toothbar.

I think that the physics of it is probably that all of the breakout force being exerted by the FEL is concentrated on the ends of the teeth, rather than being spread out along the entirety of the FEL blade and is, moreover, exerted onjust that portion of the earth being dug that is in contact with the teeth. This makes the cutting action of the FEL much more effective in breaking up earth and prying up rocks embedded in it.

In any case and whatever the reason, you can dig much more effectively and efficiently w/a toothbar in any kind of compacted or rocky soil.

FWIW, my toothbar fastens w/two bolt/washer/nut sets; one at each end of the bucket. It takes all of about 2-3 minutes to either remove or reinstall the toothbar.

Hope this helps.

 

[zuiko]

If it comes with 1" bolts the unibit wont be an option... think it goes up to 7/8" max. What does the hole saw you used look like? Does it have just have small pieces of carbide piled up on the end or teeth? Obviously the wood ones wouldn't work.

 

[RonC]

I purchased 10 acres about a year ago which included a 1/2 acre pond. The pond had been negelected for several years and one side had several willow trees and briars. I cut down the trees and had my brother-in-law use his trackhoe to remove the stumps which were quite large. I figured I would need a dozier to push the stumps into a deep ravine after trying to use the bucket on the tractor. I could not control the direction of movement using the smooth blade of the bucket. I purchased a toothbar and a 3/4 inch holesaw from Lowes, and went to work. The toothbar helped me breakup the stumps and control the movement when I was pushing them into the ravine. I use the toothbar for digging out small trees and clearing out brush. Plus the extra extension on the bucket for picking up items. I use the toothbar for small leveling jobs,instead of hooking up the box blade. I just think it is great add on for my small tractor. The discussions on this forum is what made me decide to buy the toothbar. The experience level here has helped me several times. So keep up the good work and thanks for the help.

 

[garbageman]

A toothbar is the best $300 I have spent on my tractor
Ray

 

[keeney]

I leave the toothbar on all the time.

I find the raking action during back-dragging actually helps the levelling process. The final pass is done with the back edge of the bucket. Some teeth marks can still show with its all done, but it has never been an issue where I would go to the trouble (5 minutes) of taking the toothbar off.

- Rick

 

[MadReferee]

re: What does the hole saw you used look like? Does it have just have small pieces of carbide piled up on the end or teeth?

Go to the local Home Depot or hardware store and purchase a bi-metal hole saw. They are usually white in color and look just like the ones for wood. The loader bucket metal is really soft and a new bi-metal hole saw will cut thru it like a hot knife thru butter.

 

[bebster]

Exactly my approach, use the back of the bucket to level, and never take the tooth bar off. Those teeth make it nice to cut into piles of dirt, and for uprooting brush, etc.

I guess that instead of bolts going thru the sides of the bucket, and nuts on the outside, you could replace with a clevis pin of sorts, and a quick release pin on the outside. That would make taking it off really fast and not require tools.