Todays shop time.

[ovrszd]

That's a good option. My building is a converted RV shed. I've got 3" metal poles with sheet metal attached and a roof line that is 20' high. My best option would be to attach a 2x4 to a couple of the poles and hang it but to be honest with you I like having my hose outside the shop. I hardly ever use air inside the shop.

It's 45 degrees with 20mph NW wind today. No work being done outside!!!!

 

[BukitCase]

"dont like lines and leads on the floor"

Me neither; that's why ANY "line" that's over normally travelled floor area in my shop is 8-10" ABOVE MY head height when not used/disconnected - this includes power drops 120, 240, air, suction, STAIRS :thumbsup: - in the pics, dust collection blast gates are @ 8" above head height, anything BELOW that moves with the particular tool.

Had to make ONE exception for the 3 router tables, but they're close enough to one wall I can pretend I didn't lie :laughing: ...Steve

 

[BukitCase]

Couple more... Steve

 

[Oldpath05]

I'd say BukitCase has some serious woodworking going on, equipment on wheels and marked out with duct tape, a sign of the typical limited space shop but everything looks neat.

 

[Luke'sScreenName]

Couple more... Steve

Dude Steve. You seriously built a drawbridge?! :thumbsup: I know you'll say it's to save floor space but we all know better. :drink:

 

[BukitCase]

OP05, ya got me; by spring I should have about 200 more square feet available, one of the 2 40' containers I bought this summer already has the 2-1/2 units of T1-11 siding in it I WAS storing in the corner next to those router tables, plus there's a 6'x16' space that has a 6' high stack of cedar, beech and oak that'll go in the can, plus ANOTHER stack of rough-sawn tan-oak that's 10' long by 4' wide x 6' tall - as the weather gets crappier I'll move those one at a time near the big doors and palletize 'em, so if/when we get a dry day I can move the pallet partly out the door and pick 'em with the backhoe. Once each load's in the dry, I can re-stack for best space use. Rinse, lather, repeat...

That'll let me break out the bigger jointer (12", 3 horse, spiral carbide cutter head, 1000 lbs) and the bigger planer ('nuther spiral head) - the jointer, planer and band saw in the pics (when they're on their tape marks" ALL have at least 10' in AND outfeed without moving anything - if I can keep the "aircraft carrier" (aka jointer) mobile base design so it doesn't lift more than 3/4" (and I CAN) it can sit in that same area and ALSO have at least 10' in/outfeed, probably more.

Once I get the shop spread out a bit, I'll start on a complete reno of our house, not-so-affectionately referred to by me as the "crackerbox palace" - all new kitchen, larger and mostly dictated by Mrs. Bukit, current 2-car garage gets to be family room/entertainment center, mostly dictated by yours truly because of the 20-odd years of acoustic study and studio building, etc...

Meantime, I REALLY need a separate shop of some sort for the NON-woodworking stuff; which is where the SECOND 40' container comes in -

And Luke, ya got me on the drawbridge; so you should REALLY enjoy it when I start building the 8'x20' BRIDGE CRANE with integrated steel rack, INSIDE that container :laughing: I'm tired of having steel scattered everywhere, some rusting, some not, so when the crane is done I'll be able to set a bundle of full-length steel partly inside the container with the hoe, then pick it with the crane and bring it the rest of the way in, then cut the tie wires and sort it onto one of 5 different tiers along one side of the container. Here's my "crane kit", similar DIY kits can be bought for around $6k - mine'll end up at just under $1500 including the steel rack, and should handle close to 2 tons. When I get a minute I'll see if my antiquated dos-based CAD pgm can convert dxf's to a jpg; if so I'll post a couple views of the crane later.

The other end of that container will get my mill, already has shelves/bins for hydraulic fittings and my 50" powered slip roll (was built to roll 14" wide 1" steel into 4 foot circles, doesn't even GRUNT when doing 4' wide 1/4 plate) - I'll add a divider curtain between front (welding area) and everything else, probly use a couple fiberglass welding blankets for that.

Here's a few pics, 2 containers BEFORE the second one got leveled- they are exactly parallel to the shop and 12' away, next year hopefully a roof extended from shop and covering the containers too - need more storage for dump truck, 50' manlift, 25' scissor lift, backhoe, etc, and that 12' alley way is gonna give me that - then one of my "toe jack" adapter for 20 ton air/hydraulic jacks - built 2, 3/4x3 FB just fits into the holes in container corners - AND, the place my hoe's gonna spend most of the winter gettin' a bunch of things fixed - Gotta go do more stuff before I pack it in for the night... Steve

 

[dragoneggs]

Steve, you are killing me. First of all, I need some flat ground for a container! Won't trade my view but I like where you are headed.

 

[BukitCase]

You're not really tryin' - With SA right there to guide you, you only need it flat where the DOORS are - Carl can help ya with the ironwork to support the rest, these things don't NEED any support between the ends to carry 60,000 POUNDS of stuff -

Just paint it a color your wife'll like, maybe she won't even NOTICE it ...Steve

Besides, I didn't have flat ground there EITHER - but I DO have a backhoe, and a 7 foot Gannon box for one of my tractors :thumbsup:

 

[Big Barn]

Steve, you are killing me. First of all, I need some flat ground for a container! Won't trade my view but I like where you are headed.

If you need help, my (lack of) woodworking skills might prove useful, Mark.

 

[BukitCase]

Terry, don't sell yourself short - you just invented a portable work bench that's either self-cleaning, or level when your ground AIN'T :thumbsup: ...Steve

 

[KubotainNH]

If you need help, my (lack of) woodworking skills might prove useful, Mark.

View attachment 526869

Looks like a bench for a hill to me.

 

[KubotainNH]

I'm curious what shipping containers cost elsewhere. Around here they seem kind of expensive.

 

[BukitCase]

My two 40 foot standard height were $2700 each, delivered - quality is OK, I guess I'd call 'em borderline cargo worthy. No leaks, but one could use a new door seal and the other opens/closes kinda hard - 20 footers are almost non-existent around here unless you wanna pay close to $4k (delivered price, about 90 miles from the depot) for a nearly new one... Steve

 

[KubotainNH]

The prices are similar here then. 20' are in the $1500 range. How the heck would I get that into my back yard without a crane though?

It's kinda steep before you get to the flat part.

 

[Oldpath05]

My two 40 foot standard height were $2700 each, delivered - quality is OK, I guess I'd call 'em borderline cargo worthy. No leaks, but one could use a new door seal and the other opens/closes kinda hard - 20 footers are almost non-existent around here unless you wanna pay close to $4k (delivered price, about 90 miles from the depot) for a nearly new one... Steve

Ah and there it is, found the price on the last post, I'd take an OK one if they'd drop the 7. Some interesting pictures in your previous post like the jack acc, someone has some engineering and welding skills, cant be you cause you dont have the metal working shop made yet.

Now the wood, Red cedar I presume? My son saws shingles out of Northern White Cedar, and the Tan Oak, never heard of it, Me. has Red&White Oak, but no Tan, you had to make me look it up and I did, inneresting tree, I didn't know you was into tanning leather>>> "The name tanoak refers to its tannin-rich bark, a type of tanbark, used in the past for tanning leather before the use of modern synthetic tannins. By 1907 the use of tanoak for tannin was subsiding due to the scarcity of large tanoak trees." and to think I thought that wood species was for making some exotic furniture.

 

[Oldpath05]

My two 40 foot standard height were $2700 each, delivered - quality is OK, I guess I'd call 'em borderline cargo worthy. No leaks, but one could use a new door seal and the other opens/closes kinda hard - 20 footers are almost non-existent around here unless you wanna pay close to $4k (delivered price, about 90 miles from the depot) for a nearly new one... Steve

Ah and there it is, found the price on the last post, I'd take an OK one if they'd drop the 7. Some interesting pictures in your previous post like the jack acc, someone has some engineering and welding skills, cant be you cause you dont have the metal working shop made yet.

Now the wood, Red cedar I presume? My son saws shingles out of Northern White Cedar, and the Tan Oak, never heard of it, Me. has Red&White Oak, but no Tan, you had to make me look it up and I did, inneresting tree, I didn't know you was into tanning leather>>> "The name tanoak refers to its tannin-rich bark, a type of tanbark, used in the past for tanning leather before the use of modern synthetic tannins. By 1907 the use of tanoak for tannin was subsiding due to the scarcity of large tanoak trees." and to think I thought that wood species was for making some exotic furniture.

 

[BukitCase]

"someone has some engineering and welding skills, cant be you cause you dont have the metal working shop made yet."

Actually, I kinda can - the metal shop is so I can spread out a bit and take up less room in the garage - I've done quite a few different things in 72 years, including teaching electronics in the military, working in several different video companies, designing recording studios, playing several music instruments, playing in a few bands, building my own house years ago, building a 3/4 mile road to that place across fairly steep hills, building a few race engines, being service manager for 2 companies in Hawaii, yadayada; then moved back to Oregon, union shops in rare metals (1 company for 9 years, second one for 25 - worked as instrumentation tech, that job required some physics, chemistry, electronics, pneumatics, hydraulics, process tuning, measuring everything that CAN be measured and a few that CAN'T -

Then the last 10 years there I ran a 9 man maintenance crew (including me) - 2 electricians, 2 millwrights, 2 pipe fitters, 2 welders and me -

Now, since there's no union telling me I can't weld, wire, plumb, beat on stuff, etc, I do what I dang-well please (some of the time)

You might have missed a few things I posted in JeepnFord's weld table thread, but I'll put a few more up to stimulate the shop time thread -

There's gonna be 3 sets of pix before I'm done, if I don't give up...

This set, kinda in order - Stuff that needs a better home; my "Porta-shed", built of 2" .120 wall tube, fiberglass roofing and tarps - main part is 12'x12', with an 8'x12' "porch" built the same - porch roof legs fold in, roof folds down, then I can drive the hoe inside and pick the whole thing up and move it anywhere there's a 14-15' wide path - Then, some "module pieces" for part of the container roof (separate project); then a "brush bucket" I built that also comes in handy as a flying work platform; Socket detail for container roof (the 20' green one); a batch of "tinker toys", 2" receiver hitch compatible, before and after welding; Looking into the portashed "porch" area; and 1/3 of the container roof's second half.

More to come... Steve

 

[BukitCase]

Next - making sure welds are lined up; Upending a roof module; Crabwalk hand truck, modules weigh about 200# more than I like to move and can NOT go "sideways" on a regular hand truck; Module in place ready to lift, rotate, pin; Lifted and rotated; All 3 pinned, NOT bolted together yet; Truss parts in process; Modules offset for finish welds; Chain links/1" tube, for taut cable to hang tarps; same, in place... Steve

 

[BukitCase]

Well, that last one rearranged some for me; good luck :=)
Clerestory panel in process; Temporary swivels for roof legs (til slab gets poured);Outer legs; Leg adjusters; Clerestories; Tinker toys, ready to lift roof frame; Ditto, showing "accident prevention" tinker toys; Roof frame up, legs splayed til slab (likely next year); Leg anchors/fine adjusters; "Super plank" in use, later to get stake pockets/real guard rail - that "plank" let me screw roof panels down with nearly all my body weight ABOVE the drill - none of my arms fell off that day...

Gotta go unload a couple mig gas bottles before I quit for the night - ... Steve

Sorry, OP05, forgot some of your other q's - yes, red cedar - it's 2x6 decking, gonna end up as benches/table in a 12'x24' "sun porch/breakfast nook" project, it was FREE when I bought the beech/oak doors and face frame material; Tannoak - in later years it was also found to be a pretty durable wood for floors, etc - takes a nice finish, pretty but not wild grain - I bought it in a divorce sale for less than firewood cost, so one way or another it'll get used - toe jacks - worked REALLY well, eventually I wanna build one similar to the spendy ones Enerpac makes. Keyholed face, put the "toe" however high you want it THEN jack it up...

Between those (one with a "remote") and some (sorta) artful bucket work, I got the two containers lined up within less than 1/2" and level, working ALONE. That way, when I get to the roof (whether I do it in wood or steel) I won't hafta measure every stinkin' rafter, just gang cut 'em all (and wish I'd done 'em the RIGHT length )

P.S. - check out my mag drill stuff on page 6, here, if you wanna know how I did those legs...

 

[ovrszd]

Sounds like you couldn't hold a job to me...