Chains Tire Chains problems

[marksmand]

Hello All
Ran into a problem with a set of Duo 19.5-15 chains on my L3301 rear Ag tires. I can barely hook them on
and they leave a big space where they are hooked. Really too small. Place that I bought them tirechains.com
refuses to take them back(bad story, they kept not responding to my request to return until it became impossible to meet their 15 day limit to their location on returns...needless to say stay away from them).
So can I add to these somehow? also would sell them to anyone who is interested would surely fit a less aggressive tread
Rob in NY

 

[varmint]

Sorry to hear that Tirechains.com didn't live up to good customer service standards. When I bought chains from them some years ago, they seemed very helpful and quick to take care of my needs. I would talk to a manager person, and see if they can help you. If they are the ones that screwed up, then it should be their problem. If you screwed up, then good luck!

 

[kco]

That is disappointing marsmand and I can relate to your fitting problems. I had similar issues with my DK35SE with industrial tires but finally got them to work as shown in this thread:

http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/attachments/268885-duo-chains-planned-modifications-3.html

I went through a very good local supplier and was able to modify mine by adding patterns. The last post in the thread shows how I fixed the problem with the very large end gap (which seems similar to your situation). Can you get your supplier to send a couple of patterns and connectors to close the end gap and extend the side chain as necessary? I found closing the end gap with a full pattern made a big difference. In addition to improving the rough ride cause by the gap, the extra pattern eliminated the chain's tendency to shift from side to side.

 

[arrow]

Hello All
Ran into a problem with a set of Duo 19.5-15 chains on my L3301 rear Ag tires. I can barely hook them on
and they leave a big space where they are hooked. Really too small. Place that I bought them tirechains.com
refuses to take them back(bad story, they kept not responding to my request to return until it became impossible to meet their 15 day limit to their location on returns...needless to say stay away from them).
So can I add to these somehow? also would sell them to anyone who is interested would surely fit a less aggressive tread
Rob in NY

One of the reasons I do not like duo's and that they are totally unnecessary in their concept. Is a myth that does not seem to want to die.
You can most definitely fill in the gaps. All you need is to buy separate cross chains from Tire Chains. Just measure the spread on yours while mounted. Come with hooks and all. On their website, they have descriptions of sizes. In the end, you'll have chains that are more uniform and grip better as a result.

 

[marksmand]

Thanks for all the info
Finally got those guys to take them back less shipping and a 15% restocking fee
will try again next year

That is disappointing marsmand and I can relate to your fitting problems. I had similar issues with my DK35SE with industrial tires but finally got them to work as shown in this thread:

http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/attachments/268885-duo-chains-planned-modifications-3.html

I went through a very good local supplier and was able to modify mine by adding patterns. The last post in the thread shows how I fixed the problem with the very large end gap (which seems similar to your situation). Can you get your supplier to send a couple of patterns and connectors to close the end gap and extend the side chain as necessary? I found closing the end gap with a full pattern made a big difference. In addition to improving the rough ride cause by the gap, the extra pattern eliminated the chain's tendency to shift from side to side.

 

[arrow]

Thanks for all the info
Finally got those guys to take them back less shipping and a 15% restocking fee
will try again next year

Ok. Even better. Do yourself a favor and just get regular ladder chains (either 2 or 4 link) next time and no, they will not fall between the lugs as many think. Put them on, fit them up and LEAVE THEM LOOSE w/o tensioners. They stay on and grip like we the people.

 

[LouNY]

Ok. Even better. Do yourself a favor and just get regular ladder chains (either 2 or 4 link) next time and no, they will not fall between the lugs as many think. Put them on, fit them up and LEAVE THEM LOOSE w/o tensioners. They stay on and grip like we the people.

No, No, If you want chains that will work and last and offer a smooth ride get the euro studded type, such as these Aquilineｮ Talon Tractor Chains.
the rear ones are great, the fronts are a little to aggressive at times.

 

[arrow]

No, No, If you want chains that will work and last and offer a smooth ride get the euro studded type, such as these Aquilineｮ Talon Tractor Chains.
View attachment 535243 the rear ones are great, the fronts are a little to aggressive at times.

Your chains are indeed very good but also carry a price tag 2-3 times the amount of what I'm talking about. The truth of the matter to address your "no,no" about chains is that any chains and I mean any, are a big plus in the traction department.

I do not know how the op feels about ride comfort. I don't care as mine are seldom on a road surface and these ladders are not so bad at speed at all.

 

[kco]

One of the reasons I do not like duo's and that they are totally unnecessary in their concept. Is a myth that does not seem to want to die.
You can most definitely fill in the gaps. All you need is to buy separate cross chains from Tire Chains. Just measure the spread on yours while mounted. Come with hooks and all. On their website, they have descriptions of sizes. In the end, you'll have chains that are more uniform and grip better as a result.

My actual experience was different. I originally tried 4-link ladders and they were ineffective for my 43x16-20 R4's. Most of the cross chains got lost in the tread. The DUO's solved that but were too rough. Part of the problem is that my tires are actually a skid steer tire and not all that common. The fairly small running diameter and patterns which were 1-chain link too long resulted in large gaps between the patterns. The supplier www.canadianchains.com actually changed the cross link pattern of my DUOs to a shorter one the year after I bought mine (but I bought mine from a different seller). I fixed that roughness by ordering extra DUO patterns and converting the DUOs to H-pattern and as shown in the thread linked in my post #3 of this thread. But even without that change the DUOs were much more effective than the ladders.

I had a large end-gap (4-side chain link gap) on my now H-pattern (formerly DUO) chains which I filled with a straight cross chain as you suggest. After a while the chains would shift badly at the end gap. I solved that by adding another DUO pattern across the end gap. The photos are in the thread referenced in my post 3 above but I'll post them here:

Chains with straight cross chain at end gap:



Replace straight cross chain with DUO pattern (left tire), right tire DUO pattern not yet added:



That stopped the shifting problem and improved traction/ride over the end gap.

I suspect I would not have had the shifting problem if I could have followed your recommendations and ran the chains loose. However I have less than 2" between the side chain and ROPS support bracket so I needed to keep the rear chains tight. The tensioners likely were the cause of the chains shifting. I had a similar clearance problem with my front chains and could not even mount chains until I got 2" spacers. The front chains are small H-patterns which I run fairly loose (just one bungee in a triangle pattern connecting 3 points on the side chain) because there is now good clearance.

I am finally going to fix the rear chain clearance by adding spacers. I got a quote from Bro-tek before Christmas and intend to order them soon. I'll put the spacers on in the spring because I don't want to mess with them with all the snow. I'm not confident I can handle the loaded rear tires so I will get a tire service company to install the spacers after I take the chains off. So next year winter I won't have to fuss with the rear tire tight clearance and will run them looser.

Had I been able to run my original 4-link ladders looser I may not have had the problem with them sinking in the tread and they would have been fine. If I had installed spacers from the start I may have ended up with 2-link ladders on the rears instead of trying DUOs. The DUOs were very rough but converting them to H-patterns fixed that and I suspect they are somewhat more effective than ladders.

I was fortunate to have a local supplier who stocks bulk chain patterns at about 1/2 the price of the online stores so I could modify my chains at a reasonable cost.

 

[oosik]

One of my greatest joys when I got my bigger tractor - I no longer needed chains. Yes, chains on all four and you can climb a wall. Otherwise - they can be a real PITA.

 

[Egon]

It's not too hard to find the chain and proper links to customize your tire chains" having a bolt cutter makes it even easier.

Add extra ladders and between the ladders for smooth ride is quick and easy if you have the basic set of chains.

Building your own chains is also very possible.

 

[arrow]

My actual experience was different. I originally tried 4-link ladders and they were ineffective for my 43x16-20 R4's.

You would have needed 2 link ladders for your situation and if you needed to keep the side profile limited by tightening with tensioners, you would still have had all kinds of chain over the lugs. another factor is chain diameter of the links. One does not want anything less than 3/8" for tractor tires of our size.
The key here is what the chain looks like on top of the tire, has little to do on what is happening at the bottom of the tire with looser fitting chains. Non -tensioned chains hit the ground first before any part of the tire touches the surface and this is what gives even 4 link ladders on ags...bite. When I go over ice, all you see is where the chains bit into the surface. If they resided between the lugs as can happen with tensioned chains, you might see the slightest inference of chain traction.
As far as the chains staying on. I've had a non tensioned chain come off two times in 4 years while skidding in obstructed woods. This was mostly my fault as I did not fit that side properly. The other side has never come off and I leave these chains on all year. This includes several jaunts of a mile or more going full speed with the tractor on asphalt.
Doesn't matter, with the right situation, any chain can slip off. Even our skidder chains would come off and these looked like they were welded to the tire.
This is a crumby picture of how 2 link even on ags, can create more chain contact.
http://www.buytractortirechains.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/07/Vbarreinforcedtractortirechains.jpg

 

[Jstpssng]

Ok. Even better. Do yourself a favor and just get regular ladder chains (either 2 or 4 link) next time and no, they will not fall between the lugs as many think. Put them on, fit them up and LEAVE THEM LOOSE w/o tensioners. They stay on and grip like we the people.

His tractor has very little tolerance between the tires and the bottom of the rear fenders; running loose chains will cause them to be beat all to crap. If I had purchased mine new, to sell me a tractor they would have had to modify the fenders.
I also have had different results than you when running ladder chains; if I ran them like you describe they were useless. Instead I used to work them over the lugs and run them as tight as I could get them. I would love to have a set like LouNY's but as someone mentioned they are rather pricey.

 

[Fastball]

My actual experience was different. I originally tried 4-link ladders and they were ineffective for my 43x16-20 R4's. Most of the cross chains got lost in the tread. The DUO's solved that but were too rough. Part of the problem is that my tires are actually a skid steer tire and not all that common. The fairly small running diameter and patterns which were 1-chain link too long resulted in large gaps between the patterns. The supplier www.canadianchains.com actually changed the cross link pattern of my DUOs to a shorter one the year after I bought mine (but I bought mine from a different seller). I fixed that roughness by ordering extra DUO patterns and converting the DUOs to H-pattern and as shown in the thread linked in my post #3 of this thread. But even without that change the DUOs were much more effective than the ladders.

I had a large end-gap (4-side chain link gap) on my now H-pattern (formerly DUO) chains which I filled with a straight cross chain as you suggest. After a while the chains would shift badly at the end gap. I solved that by adding another DUO pattern across the end gap. The photos are in the thread referenced in my post 3 above but I'll post them here:

Chains with straight cross chain at end gap:

View attachment 535263

Replace straight cross chain with DUO pattern (left tire), right tire DUO pattern not yet added:

View attachment 535264 View attachment 535266

That stopped the shifting problem and improved traction/ride over the end gap.

I suspect I would not have had the shifting problem if I could have followed your recommendations and ran the chains loose. However I have less than 2" between the side chain and ROPS support bracket so I needed to keep the rear chains tight. The tensioners likely were the cause of the chains shifting. I had a similar clearance problem with my front chains and could not even mount chains until I got 2" spacers. The front chains are small H-patterns which I run fairly loose (just one bungee in a triangle pattern connecting 3 points on the side chain) because there is now good clearance.

I am finally going to fix the rear chain clearance by adding spacers. I got a quote from Bro-tek before Christmas and intend to order them soon. I'll put the spacers on in the spring because I don't want to mess with them with all the snow. I'm not confident I can handle the loaded rear tires so I will get a tire service company to install the spacers after I take the chains off. So next year winter I won't have to fuss with the rear tire tight clearance and will run them looser.

Had I been able to run my original 4-link ladders looser I may not have had the problem with them sinking in the tread and they would have been fine. If I had installed spacers from the start I may have ended up with 2-link ladders on the rears instead of trying DUOs. The DUOs were very rough but converting them to H-patterns fixed that and I suspect they are somewhat more effective than ladders.

I was fortunate to have a local supplier who stocks bulk chain patterns at about 1/2 the price of the online stores so I could modify my chains at a reasonable cost.

Who did you end up using? I live over over in Lavington/Coldstream.
I have much the same issue with the chains on my L2900. Big gaps between the crosspieces. No real traction issues...but man, that ride is bumpy as heck.
BTW, I’m looking to have the thing serviced. Do you use the Kubota dealership in Vernon?

 

[kco]

I got chains, tool, additional patterns, and all the parts at Western Equipment close to you on Waddington Drive. They build chains in the Prince George shop from using bulk patterns. They ship them free to the Vernon shop once a week. Go see them at the Vernon shop. They are very helpful.

Re: service...I have a Kioti which I service myself but I get the parts from the Kioti dealer, Timberstar.

 

[Fastball]

I got chains, tool, additional patterns, and all the parts at Western Equipment close to you on Waddington Drive. They build chains in the Prince George shop from using bulk patterns. They ship them free to the Vernon shop once a week. Go see them at the Vernon shop. They are very helpful.

I know the place. Thanks for your help.

 

[BrokenTrack]

One of my greatest joys when I got my bigger tractor - I no longer needed chains. Yes, chains on all four and you can climb a wall. Otherwise - they can be a real PITA.

I disagree with this wholeheartedly.

Even the biggest tractors are made much more efficient (especially in the woods) when chains are added to the tires. They are a pain in the rump to maintain, but they are a necessity as well, especially anywhere the ground freezes and snow accumulates.

LouNY is indeed correct in that ladder, or double diamond, ice studded chains are the best; partly for ride quality, but also in reducing breakage. We used to run ring chains, and some loggers still do, but it is very hard on the rear-ends as the tractors constantly slips-grips as it is pulling/pushing. I dislike them.

Myself, where I put chains is dependent on the machine. I would NEVER put chains on the back tires of a skidder because all it does is make them rear upwards, so on them it is front-tires only, but on a tractor, I would only put them on the rear. A front end loader would have them on the back tires. A lot of it has to do with weight transfer.

These chains on this skidder are all worn out in this photo, but even in the summer, I run chains for added traction.

 

[Oldoak]

I ran double ring chains on my I.H. 354 and my JD 2350 tractor which were only two wheel drive. Best traction ever for deep snow or muddy conditions, but not as good traction on frozen ground as some other chain choices and really rough riding on frozen ground.

Most of the dairy farmers around my area still run double ring tractor tire chains.