I just got my L4400 a month ago. I know tipping can be a problem if you go across a hill but what about going up and down a hill. I will be using it on trails that are quite steep. Looking at the tractor I have a FEL and a lot of the weight seems to be over the front tires. It would seem to me that it would be difficult to tip but I don't want to take any chances. I don't think those tip meters are useful however.
tipping
- Thread starter loopyl
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woodchuckie
Platinum Member
I can go up and down some pretty steep hills on my trails especially down using the fel on or near the ground for a feeling of security. I always have a cutter or box blade on back and water in rear tires. I'm guessing 50 degrees or more. Hope I don't find out how steep before I tip.
Bird
Rest in Peace
Neither is a fuel gauge if you keep the tank full and refill it every couple of hours. And if you stay off slopes you'll never need a tiltmeter.
But I found them useful for my purposes, just as I found other instruments useful. The tiltmeter will not keep you from rolling the tractor anymore than the fuel gauge will keep you from running out of fuel. They just provide you some information. How you use it, or whether you use it, is up to you.As for going straight up and down hills; keep that front end loader as low as possible to keep your center of gravity low. In my opinion, it's safer to go downhill forward and uphill in reverse. Just remember that if you have the front end of the tractor pointed uphill, the hill is steep enough, etc., it's possible for the tractor to rotate around the rear axle; i.e., rear up and go over backwards. It's a good idea to have the tractor in 4WD going up and down slopes for a couple of reasons. Naturally traction at all four will help move the tractor, but it can also help stop the tractor. If you are going downhill forward with a load in the bucket of the front end loader, the back end of the tractor can get pretty light and your brakes only work on the rear wheels, so having it in 4WD lets the brakes also slow the front wheels.
And, of course, the best thing is to just go slow and easy until you're familiar with all the hills and slopes.
Sully2
Veteran Member
I saved a lot of $$ by NOT buying a "tilt meter". I go by the "fill my pants" meter.... If it "feels" OK...then I'll go...if it doesnt "feel" ok..I dont care what ANY "tilt meter" tells me...I aint gonna do it!!!
. If it "feels" OK...then I'll go...if it doesnt "feel" ok..I dont care what ANY "tilt meter" tells me...I aint gonna do it!!!
Bird
Rest in Peace
Sully, that works for most people most of the time, and when it doesn't work . . . well, funeral home folks have to make a living, too.
JerryG
Super Member
A tiltmeter is just another gauge that gives you a little more information to hopefully help you make a better decision. I have two of them. I like to see what the grade is but I also use them when I am making ditches and doing pad work.
andover farmer
Bronze Member
GOOD ADVISE BY BIRD!
ALWAYS ATTACK THE SLOPES STRAIGHT. NEVER @ AN ANGLE AND KEEP THAT BUCKET LOW!
ALWAYS ATTACK THE SLOPES STRAIGHT. NEVER @ AN ANGLE AND KEEP THAT BUCKET LOW!
Sully2
Veteran Member
YUP!...andover farmer said:
AndyM
Veteran Member
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Tipping?
Actually, I have pretty flat land, but I saw the title of this thread and I thought it was a continuation of these threads...
Tipping part 1
Tipping part 2
Actually, I have pretty flat land, but I saw the title of this thread and I thought it was a continuation of these threads...
Tipping part 1
Tipping part 2
chrisjbell
Platinum Member
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Tractors will roll, and it always happens fast. Steep hills are nothing to mess with.
That doesn't mean that you have to stay off. Just be ready to drop that bucket when a wheel comes up.
Bird's advice about using 4WD is also a very good point. Tractor brakes on a hill are worthless when you start to slide and the traction from your fronts may be the only thing holding you on the hill.
I like my tiltmeter. I think I paid something like $25, which is cheap extra insurance.
That doesn't mean that you have to stay off. Just be ready to drop that bucket when a wheel comes up.
Bird's advice about using 4WD is also a very good point. Tractor brakes on a hill are worthless when you start to slide and the traction from your fronts may be the only thing holding you on the hill.
I like my tiltmeter. I think I paid something like $25, which is cheap extra insurance.
Berniep
Platinum Member
Joke away! Sometimes these threads need some humor.
At the risk of being redundant in regards to the other threads. (but there are new people here all the time)
A tilt meter isn't going to help when the downside rear wheel drops into a hole you didn't see and turns a slope that was nowhere near dangerous into a rolled tractor.
At the risk of being redundant in regards to the other threads. (but there are new people here all the time)
A tilt meter isn't going to help when the downside rear wheel drops into a hole you didn't see and turns a slope that was nowhere near dangerous into a rolled tractor.
Scrounger
Platinum Member
I have a tilt meter but even when its reading 'safe' if I feel the cheeks pinch I know I'm not as safe as the tilt meter reads. I spent some time cleaning up ATV trails on the tractor this summer and more than once the tilt was less than 15% and I was not feeling good at all. Major cheek pinching going on.
Birds forward and backwards rule is what I've done for years. My grandfather used to do that on the banks of a reservoir that were almost too steep to walk on. Never had an issue.
Like others have stated, the 'gut feeling' is worth more than most think.
Birds forward and backwards rule is what I've done for years. My grandfather used to do that on the banks of a reservoir that were almost too steep to walk on. Never had an issue.
Like others have stated, the 'gut feeling' is worth more than most think.
LBrown59
Super Star Member
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This is sorta distorted reasoning.loopyl said:
Say you don't want to operate the tractor on any slope that's over 10% .In that case A tilt meter will keep you off all Such slopes.
By avoiding those areas you won't have any issues with tipping on those places.
LBrown59
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Sully2 said:I saved a lot of $$ by NOT buying a "tilt meter". I go by the "fill my pants" meter...
Tilt meter about $25.00 .
Last time I heard Hospital and Funeral home rates were well above that.
Sully2
Veteran Member
Extremely poor analogy! Im NOT getting sideways on ANY..repeat ANY slope! And when my butt cheeks clench tight on a SLIGHT slope...going straight up and down it..I wont go on THAT slope again!LBrown59 said:
Besides..Im well insured!
johnk
Elite Member
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I always back up the hill because I usually don't make it the first couple of tries. It's pretty washed out in the spring from runoff and very difficult to get up. I have a box blade on the back with rippers extended. I carry the box blade low to the ground while climbing in reverse and when I lose traction I drop the blade and drag that little section as smooth as I can when descending. Then I go in reverse again and hopefully the section I just dragged will let me get a little more traction and continue my ascent. When I get to the top I spend all day dragging the trails because it feels like a conquered Everest. Here's a pic of my steeper section but what you can't see is all the off camber washouts....Nice and slow is the only way to go. I wouldn't even think of trying to go straight up with the tractor. Lose traction and then what???
Attachments
gone2dawgs
New member
I am also worried about tipping. I did something that perhaps was not the brightest idea. I went stright up the steepest slope I have very slow, in 4WD, with the FEL low to the ground and a Box Blade (about 400 lbs) on the 3 point hitch (with my ROPS and seat belt of course). I slowed the tractor down at the most sloped point and got the rear wheel spinning. It was my test to see the point at which I would loose traction. I would LIKE TO THINK I would loose traction on a slope before the front would rotate up and over.
I also have my rear wheel filled, I hope you have done the same. As far as going across a slope, it looks like 45 degrees is about the point of tip. This is based on my glancing and judging where the center to gravity is and the midpoint of my wheels. But you also have to have margin for dips, pholes, etc., By the way, I also have my rear wheels entended the max., about 10 inched beyond normal.
BE CAREFUL!!!
I also have my rear wheel filled, I hope you have done the same. As far as going across a slope, it looks like 45 degrees is about the point of tip. This is based on my glancing and judging where the center to gravity is and the midpoint of my wheels. But you also have to have margin for dips, pholes, etc., By the way, I also have my rear wheels entended the max., about 10 inched beyond normal.
BE CAREFUL!!!
Bird
Rest in Peace
And MOST of the time you will. But the one time you don't will sure ruin your day.
gone2dawgs
New member
I am outraged that the manufactures do not provide clear, precise information on the point of no return. It is very simple to calculate the center of gravity and for various configurations (FEL down, FEL up with the max. permissible load, etc., etc.) the slope at which roll over will take place. I can not believe the manufacturers are not required to provide this. I am a single engine plane pilot and perhaps that is my perspective; you ALWAYS know where your center of gravity is before you take off with a bunch of fat passengers (smile) to ensure you are with a prescibed set of limits. I am also an engineer so maybe I am overly **** about this topic....But I feel strongly that I am correct! My 2 cents.
