Tipping over question

Matt_W · May 23, 2006

I have hilly property too and only 60 hours of tractor experience. Have a B7610 as well and have found TBN to be the most helpful with information.
My worst mishap was working sideways across my driveway cleaning dirt from the ditch on the upside of the hill and moving it to the lower side. My bucket was pretty full of heavy rock and dirt and a little too high when my tire dropped a few inches on the lower side of the road and before I knew it I was up on 2 wheels. Luckily my hand was on the joystick and lowered it fast enough to recover. Now I put less in the bucket and keep it very low to the ground. I don't try to rush and always wear my seatbelt. I have noticed that the heavier box blade over the back blade gives more stability.
I think weights would help on the rims/tires and plan on doing something homemade.
Just a novice who doesn't want to learn the hard way.

Matt_W · May 23, 2006

I have hilly property too and only 60 hours of tractor experience. Have a B7610 as well and have found TBN to be the most helpful with information.
My worst mishap was working sideways across my driveway cleaning dirt from the ditch on the upside of the hill and moving it to the lower side. My bucket was pretty full of heavy rock and dirt and a little too high when my tire dropped a few inches on the lower side of the road and before I knew it I was up on 2 wheels. Luckily my hand was on the joystick and lowered it fast enough to recover. Now I put less in the bucket and keep it very low to the ground. I don't try to rush and always wear my seatbelt. I have noticed that the heavier box blade over the back blade gives more stability.
I think weights would help on the rims/tires and plan on doing something homemade.
Just a novice who doesn't want to learn the hard way.

Griffey · May 23, 2006

Lots of good advice. Thanks to everyone for the tips.

One more question...

If a person happens to tip one over (not that I'm planning on it) what do you do to set it right? Does it need to be done quickly with fliuds maybe going where they shouldn't? ANy thougths on this?

Again, I will use all of your tips to help avoid this, but I guess I should know just in case. Kind of like learning CPR. Glad I know it, but hope I never have to use it.

Griffey · May 23, 2006

Lots of good advice. Thanks to everyone for the tips.

One more question...

If a person happens to tip one over (not that I'm planning on it) what do you do to set it right? Does it need to be done quickly with fliuds maybe going where they shouldn't? ANy thougths on this?

Again, I will use all of your tips to help avoid this, but I guess I should know just in case. Kind of like learning CPR. Glad I know it, but hope I never have to use it.

Bob53 · May 23, 2006

unfortunatly from experience.

Turn key off soon as can. I just tied a bull rope on Ropes and it pulled up easly with my forester. i waited 15 mins till fulids setted back, then checked fulids, then started up, ran a while and checked fluids again. Every things been good and was year ago.

Bob53 · May 23, 2006

unfortunatly from experience.

Turn key off soon as can. I just tied a bull rope on Ropes and it pulled up easly with my forester. i waited 15 mins till fulids setted back, then checked fulids, then started up, ran a while and checked fluids again. Every things been good and was year ago.

herringchoker · May 23, 2006

TexasJohn- WOW. Everyone should look at those movies. This is serious stuff, you can never be too careful. Thanks for the link.

herringchoker · May 23, 2006

TexasJohn- WOW. Everyone should look at those movies. This is serious stuff, you can never be too careful. Thanks for the link.

Henro · May 23, 2006

I have had ther rear tires come off the ground on a couple occasions. 

Having a REAR tire come off the ground is generally not a good thing. Reason being the rear tires tend to hold the tractor in positon with respect to the ground, since there is no pivot point related to the rear axle (as compared to the center pivot commonly found on the front axles).

I think there are probably two types of rear tire lift possiblilities. One is where the loader height is the cause, and the second is where the slope itself is the main culprit. In the former, lowering the loader can be all that is needed to stop the tip. But if the slope is the main concern, then while lowering the loader can do nothing but help the situation, it may not be enough. I think it is in these situations that ballast in tires or somehow otherwise attached to the tractor will be an asset.

I almost would be willing to go out on a limb, and recommend that if slopes are a concern, then adding ballast as low as possible would make the most sense. For me, this has meant foam filled tires on the front and liquid filled in the rear. A MMM also addds a relatively log of weight down real low. A thick steel plate or something else in place of a MMM would also give a great benefit I would bet.

Does the cab positioned above the center of gravity make the tractor more tippy. Without question yes, just like any of us sitting the tractor seat does as well....

Henro · May 23, 2006

I have had ther rear tires come off the ground on a couple occasions. 

Having a REAR tire come off the ground is generally not a good thing. Reason being the rear tires tend to hold the tractor in positon with respect to the ground, since there is no pivot point related to the rear axle (as compared to the center pivot commonly found on the front axles).

I think there are probably two types of rear tire lift possiblilities. One is where the loader height is the cause, and the second is where the slope itself is the main culprit. In the former, lowering the loader can be all that is needed to stop the tip. But if the slope is the main concern, then while lowering the loader can do nothing but help the situation, it may not be enough. I think it is in these situations that ballast in tires or somehow otherwise attached to the tractor will be an asset.

I almost would be willing to go out on a limb, and recommend that if slopes are a concern, then adding ballast as low as possible would make the most sense. For me, this has meant foam filled tires on the front and liquid filled in the rear. A MMM also addds a relatively log of weight down real low. A thick steel plate or something else in place of a MMM would also give a great benefit I would bet.

Does the cab positioned above the center of gravity make the tractor more tippy. Without question yes, just like any of us sitting the tractor seat does as well....

Bob_Young · May 23, 2006

Back when I spent most of my day on 2WD Ag tractors (without FELs or ROPs) the word when working a dangerous sidehill was to go slow enough to allow some warning when the tractor was getting ready to roll. Then when you felt it starting, quickly turn the tractor downhill.

I think it saved me a couple of times. Had to fight a reflex that wanted to turn the tractor back uphill. After turning downhill, the heavy engine block would be below the tractor's CG (on the grade) and things seemed to settle down...at least that's why I thought it worked.
FWIW
Bob

Bob_Young · May 23, 2006

Back when I spent most of my day on 2WD Ag tractors (without FELs or ROPs) the word when working a dangerous sidehill was to go slow enough to allow some warning when the tractor was getting ready to roll. Then when you felt it starting, quickly turn the tractor downhill.

I think it saved me a couple of times. Had to fight a reflex that wanted to turn the tractor back uphill. After turning downhill, the heavy engine block would be below the tractor's CG (on the grade) and things seemed to settle down...at least that's why I thought it worked.
FWIW
Bob

proudestmonkey · May 24, 2006

I'd add:

Watch your front tires as much as you can when moving with a loaded FEL bucket. I have lots of hills, rolls, bumps, and divets on my property. There are MANY places I'd be fine, unless I hit a divet, and then I'd tip it over if I wasn't watching. Also, if you go very slow where you know your property has some problem areas, you won't tip even when you might if you were going faster.

Finally, I guess I should say that one of the things I did this spring when I got my FEL is to look for holes and divets all over my property (5 acres) and fill in the scariest ones. In fact, there were two areas (each is about 25 feet across) on my "second" lawn (the mostly weed area on a second tier of our hill) where I was afraid of tipping the tractor if I ever went over them sideways. They were essentiall runnoff depressions. I don't want to fill them all the way because I'll get standing water if I do, but I wanted to fill them enough to avoid tipping when mowing. I go to the woods and look for areas I know I won't be going with my tractor, get a few bucketfulls, and fill holes. I will resume this job in the fall when I put the FEL back on for pre-winter grading work.

proudestmonkey · May 24, 2006

I'd add:

Watch your front tires as much as you can when moving with a loaded FEL bucket. I have lots of hills, rolls, bumps, and divets on my property. There are MANY places I'd be fine, unless I hit a divet, and then I'd tip it over if I wasn't watching. Also, if you go very slow where you know your property has some problem areas, you won't tip even when you might if you were going faster.

Finally, I guess I should say that one of the things I did this spring when I got my FEL is to look for holes and divets all over my property (5 acres) and fill in the scariest ones. In fact, there were two areas (each is about 25 feet across) on my "second" lawn (the mostly weed area on a second tier of our hill) where I was afraid of tipping the tractor if I ever went over them sideways. They were essentiall runnoff depressions. I don't want to fill them all the way because I'll get standing water if I do, but I wanted to fill them enough to avoid tipping when mowing. I go to the woods and look for areas I know I won't be going with my tractor, get a few bucketfulls, and fill holes. I will resume this job in the fall when I put the FEL back on for pre-winter grading work.

dholly · May 24, 2006

I would highly recommend trying rear tire ballast for your B7610. When I bot mine, I declined the rear tire ballast for fear of compacting the lawn when mowing. I did hang the recommended max of 500lbs in the ballast box when doing FEL work, kept my bucket low, hand on joystick etc. Still lifted my fair share of rear wheels, nothing unexpected or not easily corrected, but I quickly concluded when working on even small slopes you really should have more than 500lbs on the back of a B7610 if you want to move thru your FEL jobs quickly and safely. So I filled my rear R4s with 18gal ea. of RV Antifreeze, maybe an additional 125lbs each side, and it makes all the difference in the world. No more tipsy, 'walking-on-eggshells' pucker with a side-hill full load, and I was pleasantly surprised to find it made the ride while mowing more comfortable without lawn damage. I am certain it helped with my snow plowing this past winter as well. Cost was $0.99/gal + less than $10 for the valve adapter and a drill pump. With the proper fluid, it's easily reversible if you don't like it...

dholly · May 24, 2006

I would highly recommend trying rear tire ballast for your B7610. When I bot mine, I declined the rear tire ballast for fear of compacting the lawn when mowing. I did hang the recommended max of 500lbs in the ballast box when doing FEL work, kept my bucket low, hand on joystick etc. Still lifted my fair share of rear wheels, nothing unexpected or not easily corrected, but I quickly concluded when working on even small slopes you really should have more than 500lbs on the back of a B7610 if you want to move thru your FEL jobs quickly and safely. So I filled my rear R4s with 18gal ea. of RV Antifreeze, maybe an additional 125lbs each side, and it makes all the difference in the world. No more tipsy, 'walking-on-eggshells' pucker with a side-hill full load, and I was pleasantly surprised to find it made the ride while mowing more comfortable without lawn damage. I am certain it helped with my snow plowing this past winter as well. Cost was $0.99/gal + less than $10 for the valve adapter and a drill pump. With the proper fluid, it's easily reversible if you don't like it...

N80 · May 24, 2006

( I think it saved me a couple of times. Had to fight a reflex that wanted to turn the tractor back uphill. After turning downhill, the heavy engine block would be below the tractor's CG (on the grade) and things seemed to settle down...at least that's why I thought it worked.
FWIW
Bob)

If you watch the movies (linked to above) of the tractors rolling over, there seem to be several key elements including speed, the height and angle of the hill, maybe even a divet that the front left tire drops into, but it seems to me that the final event is the rapid turning of the front tires in the uphill direction. On a number of the roll overs in those clips I'm almost certain that the tractor would have remained upright had the wheels been turned downhill or even if they hadn't been turned at all.

N80 · May 24, 2006

( I think it saved me a couple of times. Had to fight a reflex that wanted to turn the tractor back uphill. After turning downhill, the heavy engine block would be below the tractor's CG (on the grade) and things seemed to settle down...at least that's why I thought it worked.
FWIW
Bob)

If you watch the movies (linked to above) of the tractors rolling over, there seem to be several key elements including speed, the height and angle of the hill, maybe even a divet that the front left tire drops into, but it seems to me that the final event is the rapid turning of the front tires in the uphill direction. On a number of the roll overs in those clips I'm almost certain that the tractor would have remained upright had the wheels been turned downhill or even if they hadn't been turned at all.