Threaded links drag

[tngw1500se]

Forgive me but I don't know the names of all the parts so here goes:

My max 22 has threaded turnbuckle links on each side of the lift bars. Those links keep the bars from hitting the tires with a 3 point attachment on. I also have the backhoe attachment. The problem is when the backhoe is attached, I have to unscrew the links and leave one threaded part of the link hanging on the bar. The threads drag in the mud and get damaged. There is a nut on each bar I could remove every time but that's a hassle. The whole set up is a hassle. Is the another option I could use that would just pin on so I could remove the whole link really easy?

 

[DavesTractor]

Don't worry about not knowing the names of the parts....everybody seems to coin their own words for the 3-point parts.

Look at page 68 in your backhoe manual. You do not need to unscrew the links. The lower arms and the side-sway links stay on.

 

[tngw1500se]

Don't worry about not knowing the names of the parts....everybody seems to coin their own words for the 3-point parts.

Look at page 68 in your backhoe manual. You do not need to unscrew the links. The lower arms and the side-sway links stay on.

There's not anyplace to put the links. When I got the tractor the hoe was installed and the links were ny-tied to the lower bar. I didn't know that until they fell down and gouged a mark in my asphalt driveway. The lift arms have to be mounted to the rear of the hoe and the links have to come off in order to do that don't they? If I left them on they'd just come loose as the turnbuckle vibrated. If I remove them it leaves one threaded end of the link hanging down to drag on rocks etc. The only way to remove that end of the link is to remove the nut that mounts it to the lower 3 point bars. Not a great design. Looks like you could replace that part with a stud with a hole for a pin to retain it. I'd like a better setup even if it wasn't adjustable. I just use the hoe and one 3 point implement. I've even had the front pins fall out when using the rock rake as it is. Could I just do away with them and make some sort of chain system from the draw-bar to limit the rock rake travel?

 

[DavesTractor]

There's not anyplace to put the links. When I got the tractor the hoe was installed and the links were ny-tied to the lower bar. I didn't know that until they fell down and gouged a mark in my asphalt driveway. The lift arms have to be mounted to the rear of the hoe and the links have to come off in order to do that don't they? If I left them on they'd just come loose as the turnbuckle vibrated. If I remove them it leaves one threaded end of the link hanging down to drag on rocks etc. The only way to remove that end of the link is to remove the nut that mounts it to the lower 3 point bars. Not a great design. Looks like you could replace that part with a stud with a hole for a pin to retain it. I'd like a better setup even if it wasn't adjustable. I just use the hoe and one 3 point implement. I've even had the front pins fall out when using the rock rake as it is. Could I just do away with them and make some sort of chain system from the draw-bar to limit the rock rake travel?

Looking at the manual, it looks like the sway links unpin and swing back and are pinned at the rear lower part of the backhoe. No tools, and just seconds to do and nothing will drag in the dirt. Seems like a decent design. All sway chains need to be adjustable by design, but I suppose if you never planned to get another implement you could make some stiff arm pin-on sway devices, but I think you are fixing a problem that doesn't exist. Or maybe I am not understanding you.

 

[tngw1500se]

Looking at the manual, it looks like the sway links unpin and swing back and are pinned at the rear lower part of the backhoe. No tools, and just seconds to do and nothing will drag in the dirt. Seems like a decent design. All sway chains need to be adjustable by design, but I suppose if you never planned to get another implement you could make some stiff arm pin-on sway devices, but I think you are fixing a problem that doesn't exist. Or maybe I am not understanding you.

Thanks for the reply. I'll take another look and see if there is a way to connect them under the hoe. Like I said when I got it they were ny-tied up. You might guess how long that lasted. Might be a few days before I can look. We've got rain and mud. The tractor is outside in the back so I might wait until it drys a bit to look under it but I will. Thanks

 

[tngw1500se]

Thanks for the reply. I'll take another look and see if there is a way to connect them under the hoe. Like I said when I got it they were ny-tied up. You might guess how long that lasted. Might be a few days before I can look. We've got rain and mud. The tractor is outside in the back so I might wait until it drys a bit to look under it but I will. Thanks

Finally got to look today and I don't see anywhere I could hook the sway links to the backhoe.

 

[LAWALLSTRACTOR]

They are supposed to be zip tied, get yourself some heavy duty zip ties.

 

[tngw1500se]

They are supposed to be zip tied, get yourself some heavy duty zip ties.

That's the way the dealer had them when I got the tractor. Of coarse the ties soon broke and the links fell down.

 

[Xfaxman]

Use a long stainless steel hose clamp. :thumbsup:

 

[DavesTractor]

Look at the manual on the page I mentioned earlier. They will pin up in place.

 

[DavesTractor]

You guys are killing me with the zip ties, hose clamps, dragging in the dirt deal. So far, I do not think the OP has looked at the manual. Not that any of us really like to look at manuals, I'm almost as bad. So here is a picture. We like pictures. Unless I am misunderstanding the problem (wouldn't be the first time), this is pretty simple to just swing the link rearward and pin it.

 

[tngw1500se]

You guys are killing me with the zip ties, hose clamps, dragging in the dirt deal. So far, I do not think the OP has looked at the manual. Not that any of us really like to look at manuals, I'm almost as bad. So here is a picture. We like pictures. Unless I am misunderstanding the problem (wouldn't be the first time), this is pretty simple to just swing the link rearward and pin it.

View attachment 421677

I just was able to look at the manual yesterday but also I had a problem with the those pins falling out and they would drag. I replaced those pins with bolts and double nutted them. I knock the pins out of the sway links when I have the rock rack on. Guess I take my tractor over more brush and rocks than most people do.

 

[DavesTractor]

I just was able to look at the manual yesterday but also I had a problem with the those pins falling out and they would drag. I replaced those pins with bolts and double nutted them. I knock the pins out of the sway links when I have the rock rack on. Guess I take my tractor over more brush and rocks than most people do.

Good point on the rocks and brush comments. Good idea on the bolts.

 

[2516mo]

Do you have room to double nut the turn buckles and pins? For the threaded lift arm I removed the stock nut and used a couple metric nuts from fastenal... it kept vibrating loose and fell off once...

 

[tngw1500se]

Do you have room to double nut the turn buckles and pins? For the threaded lift arm I removed the stock nut and used a couple metric nuts from fastenal... it kept vibrating loose and fell off once...

I could do that but I think I'm just going to make them removable.

 

[DavesTractor]

I could do that but I think I'm just going to make them removable.

That might be the best idea.

You might even consider a skid plate of sorts to bolt to the bottom of the tractor. We sell low profile orchard tractors and in the fall after pruning they will sometimes shred the brush in place with a low profile 100'ish HP tractor with a shredder flail. As the shredder is on the back, you drive over the brush with the tractor and even though this is pretty small brush a stick will find it's way up into an expensive part under the tractor and the tractor is down and a repair is needed. We build a belly pan that protects the expensive bits underneath. I've never developed one for smaller tractors, but it doesn't seem to be too hard of a task. Make it easy to unbolt for service and some holes for drainage.