Thinking of getting chains?

[vjd57]

So I keep getting stuck w/ my new "4 wheel drive" L45 while clearing my wooded property. Turns out it really isn't full 4 wheel drive even when stepping on the rear differential lock while in 4 wheel drive. Called the dealer and complained all 4 wheels were not engaged like I was led to believe would happen during purchase:confused2:, only 3 wheels spin most of the time, dealer said that is normal, no such thing as full 4 wheel drive. Go figure?

OK so now that I have vented I'm going to have the dealer fill the rear tires w/ m1000 fluid and thinking of getting chains for my rear industrial tires, any one think this will help in semi loose muddy soil conditions?

 

[plowindeeper]

It will help some If you have a loader you could push yourself out or a winch

 

[whistlepig]

So I keep getting stuck w/ my new "4 wheel drive" L45 while clearing my wooded property. Turns out it really isn't full 4 wheel drive even when stepping on the rear differential lock while in 4 wheel drive. Called the dealer and complained all 4 wheels were not engaged like I was led to believe would happen during purchase:confused2:, only 3 wheels spin most of the time, dealer said that is normal, no such thing as full 4 wheel drive. Go figure?

OK so now that I have vented I'm going to have the dealer fill the rear tires w/ m1000 fluid and thinking of getting chains for my rear industrial tires, any one think this will help in semi loose muddy soil conditions?

I don't do mud with chains but they were the best investment I have ever made for moving snow. I have seen very few log skidders that didn't have chains on them year round.

 

[hayden]

I think you will find adding chains will make a huge difference. Loading the tires is a must too. Unfortunately, R4 tires kinda suck in mud, but the chains will help a lot.

If they will work for you, I'd highly recommend cleatted chains rather than just ladder chains. The grip is amazing. The down side is that they will chew up pavement and concrete. I bought a few horse stall mats from TSC for my shop so I can still drive the tractor in for storage and work. The mats are 1/2" or 3/4" thick and protect the concrete floor.

 

[Singlemalt]

If you are mostly in wooded areas you might want to consider trading out for Ag tires.

It is all I have ever used and I'm in the bush, swamps and beaver areas constantly. They aren't kind to grass if you are making hard turns but seem to be well suited to off road applications. Can't recall ever being stuck and rarely use the differential.

 

[WilliamBos]

I agree , swap out or buy a set of R1 Ag tires. R4's and mud do not get along at all.

 

[Verticaltrx]

Unfortunately they don't make R1 Ag tires for any of the Kubota TLBs bigger than the B26 (and their only available for the rear for it). Best bet is a set of chains on the rear. Don't get ladder type chains, they'll just fall down between the lugs. Look for the either diamond pattern chains or ring chains for max traction. You'll have to make sure there is adequate fender clearance, you may need a set of wheel spacers also. I wouldn't put chains on the front unless it was a last resort.

Don't feel bad that your tractor isn't 'true 4wd'. Very, very few are, and most of them are older and in the 70+ hp range. There are a few tractors that have limited slip in the front axle but not many. I can also tell you that whether you have 3 wheels turning or 4, with R4 tires in the mud it won't make a bit of difference.

 

[vjd57]

Thanks for the input guys, I'm going to go w/ the chains and see what happens. At the very least it should help w/ the all the snow we get in Maine. AG tires are probably the better choice but don't need that bill w/ just 55 hrs of use.

 

[Singlemalt]

Talk to your dealer. With 55 hours of use he made help you trade out to Ag tires. Don't know which are more expensive but it is to his advantage to have you happy.

The industrial tires you have can't be hurt that bad. Even if you have to go after market and sell the indus. tires on the side, he may cover off the labour.

 

[leonz]

Thanks for the input guys, I'm going to go w/ the chains and see what happens. At the very least it should help w/ the all the snow we get in Maine. AG tires are probably the better choice but don't need that bill w/ just 55 hrs of use.

Buy a set if the Pewag LOGGING ring chains with the carbide studs on them you wont regret that purchase.

the "TRUE TO TYPE" four wheel drive machines have 2 count them 2 -no spin differentials which is something you can explain to your dealer.

Mining machines with articulating frames benefit from no spin differentials benefit from them due to the torque created/needed for diggingon hard ground where a passive differential prevents the less beefy ones that do not have planetary drives destroy themselves as they will automatically slip because of the spiral bevel gearing.

 

[Bota Bum]

Howdy Gents,

I too am looking into chains for my BX2360. The mechanic tells me not to get them, as they slide on ice and, cause dmage to the 4WD system as some wheels spin and others grab. Suggested I just go with ag's.

Sounds odd to me. What say you all?

 

[MHarryE]

My brother in law has a firewood business and so spends a lot of time in the woods. He has 2 Kubotas, 1 with R-1 tires and the other with R-4 tires. The R-1 tires are designed for ag applications i.e. field work. He had so many flats that he had the fronts filled with a foam. He felt the rears were too expensive to foam fill so he puts up with flats but the fronts are the ones that take most of the punishment anyway. The tractor with R-4 tires has not yet had a flat. Construction tires, and the R-4 is a construction tire, put up with more abuse. I'm not sure why - my R-4's have only a 4 ply rating so their damage resistance is surely not due to many cord layers. The lugs are much wider so it may be due just to having more lug area. Your idea of using chains sounds like a winner - keeping the increased durability of a R-4 and have increased traction. Still isn't going to be perfect, but getting beter.

 

[JoeL4330]

Howdy Gents,

I too am looking into chains for my BX2360. The mechanic tells me not to get them, as they slide on ice and, cause dmage to the 4WD system as some wheels spin and others grab. Suggested I just go with ag's.

Sounds odd to me. What say you all?

Politely ignore the dealer.

Best snow/ice config I've found are turfs and chains on all 4 wheels ...I've found turfs to be good in snow by themselves and you can use less expensive ladder chains on turfs w no worry about chains falling into grooves ...my fronts are reinforced bar chains and ice is just not a problem ...never had chains slide on ice, period...and my land is steep.

As for hurting the 4wd mechanisms (because of slightly different rolling radii front and rear) you don't have enough power to do damage (unless you really work hard at it, I suppose). I've also used chains on all four wheels of my 4wd F350 and my Grand Cherokee ...as any serious four-wheeler does when chains are needed. It's always nice to be able to steer and stop and worry less about either front wheel skid or rear wheel skid (and incidentally, my Grand Cherokee has locking front and rear diffs...still no problem)

 

[638]

Chains will get you farther into the swamp before you get stuck !

 

[crazyal]

What are you getting stuck on? Is it muddy roots and rocks or just deep mud? Chains need something to grip on. Secondly be prepared for sticker shock when you get a price on chains. The standard ladder chains aren't too bad but once you get into a good set of chains for logging you're going to be looking at well over $700.

 

[RoyJackson]

Howdy Gents,

I too am looking into chains for my BX2360. The mechanic tells me not to get them, as they slide on ice and, cause dmage to the 4WD system as some wheels spin and others grab. Suggested I just go with ag's.

Sounds odd to me. What say you all?

Since you mention ice, I'm thinking you're more interested for chains for winter use...
As far as slipping on ice...depends on the type of chains. More aggressive types bite into the ice, but can damage paved surfaces. Less aggressive ("road") chains might slip on ice a bit...maybe. Mine haven't (I use 4-link ladder type chains)...
I only use them on the rear tires and really don't need MFWD as much as I did. I use 2WD and the steering brakes more now.

Supposedly, you can damage the front wheel assist if the fronts have more grip then the rear tires. However, there are a lot of TBNers use chains on the front only, or all four tires. Not too many reports of damage IIRC...

BTW, if you do want chains...don't wait until you need them. Some sizes (15-19.5 R-4 tire sizes) sell out very fast.

For more info on tire chains, read about them on www.tirechains.com

 

[savageactor7]

If you get stuck in wet ground or do snow removal chains on all 4 tires is the way to go.

Here in CNY we have icy conditions at times and imo properly tensioned chains are a god send...your only defense against ice. We do a lot of logging in the winter thanks to chains. Without 'em we wouldn't be out there.

There's a certain amount of maintenance to chains...they're not an install and forget about it appliance. You should talk to someone that has used and appreciates chains for some good counsel...unless of course they're nixed for the BX.

 

[North West Farmer]

Have an old H16 Bolens 16hp general light duty tractor, two wheel drive and the hydro foot operated transmission.

I have rebuilt every portion of this little toughie at least once, including the motor and one new hydro transmission. If I keep it well maintained it is ready to go year around, truf, mud, snow ice you name it.

It has had chains on since shortly after I first acquired it back in the early 1970. Just put a new set of chains on in early 2011.

To make a long story short, with the chains it goes pretty much anywhere you can go safely and do what you need. Pull some very heavy loads for its stature and it keeps coming back for more.

No ballast in the tires and no wheel weights. Take the chains off and it is relatively helpless, even with a locking rear end. The chains made this a working tractor and the chains are available out of standard inventories at a reasonable prices.

Almost forgot to tell you that it does have turf tires under the chains.

Possibly that will help you with your decisions.

Nick, North West Farmer

 

[David s Von Gieserbrechta]

Personally I would go with chains all around. During the winter on my Bx2350 I have chains on all fours plus 500 pounds of iron rear wheel weights and a little over 200 pounds of lead hanging off of the front bumper. That coupled with a 585 pound rear mount snow blower and a bucket full of snow it pretty much gets me where I need to go. But without the weights and chains in heavy snow and ice I'd be better off using a shovel.

The downside of using chins in the bush is that the chains do tend to grab sticks and push them into those lovely PLASTIC Kubota fenders and linkages, get the picture?

 

[Bota Bum]

For more info on tire chains, read about them on www.tirechains.com

Roy - thank you for the information and link!

To the OP - thanks for allowing me to hijack your thread a bit. I will start a new one, addressing the BX series specifically.