brin
Super Member
Can you have another cutting wedge welded on each end so you split a round into 4 pieces going and coming...? Have you seen those log splitters...? Northern sells the the extra cutting wedges for the splitter,, I believe...
The Log house Project begins........
- Thread starter MotorSeven
- Start date
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Obed
Elite Member
I suspect you are going to like that splitter. I went with a gas powered splitter so I don't have to disconnect whatever 3PH attachment happens to be on my tractor at the time I want to split wood. However, I do see the advantages of a 3PH splitter - faster cycle time, powerful, no gas engine to maintain.
Obed
Obed
bindian
Super Member
Instead of having a flat edge push the log onto a sharp wedge, this splitter has flat "stops" at both ends. A double sided wedge kinda like a double bit axe moves back and forth between the stops. Put a round on it, engage the hydraulics, wedge moves into the round splitting it. Then, before retracting, place another round behind the wedge then split while retracting. This should cut the splitting time in half over a regular splitter. My tractor has a 16.8 gal pump, so I should be in the 6-8 second range to split in either direction.
Since it is a 3 point attachment, and I have a lever back at the rear of the tractor, I can lower it to the ground and roll on any huge rounds onto it instead of picking them up. Since I am heating with wood, I am going to be cutting and splitting a lot of cords every year. Hopefully this will make things quicker and easier.
This is the one I bought:
Powerhorse Horizontal Dual Split 3-Pt. Log Splitter 20-Ton, 4in. x 24in. Cylinder | Log Splitters| Northern Tool + Equipment
She has been the War Dept for some time now....I guess she is used to it
Interesting. Dad had a 5hp gas powered unit that had the cylinder and beam "stop" pivot vertical to put the stop on the ground. I have only used this style. Heavy rounds can be "walked" over and onto the stop. Your style unit, you have to lift the round up and on. Seems to me the log tables would be in the way. Let the splits fall to the ground and push them out of the way with your feet. Don't know which I would like better. I always sat on a round and ran the "slicer" while Dad fed me rounds and hauled away the splits.
Please let us know how it does. Also, I'm going to a Woodmizer open house tomorrow, about 2 hours east of here.
hugs, Brandi
OP
MotorSeven
Elite Member
Got it all hooked up today. My tractor hydraulics are deadheading while running the splitter. I started a thread in the Kioti sub forum to figure out how to fix this. It's definitely a tractor issue, not the splitter...I remember reading that some tractors require some kind of loop or valve to prevent this from happening.
bindian
Super Member
Deadheading? You mean when the splitter is not moving, your hydraulics cannot loop back to the return line? Guess my backhoe has this covered in it's system, as I run off one of the two remotes.
hugs, Brandi
scrappy isb67
Gold Member
when exactly is it deadheading? when the spool on the the splitter is in neutral? or when actuated?
is the splitter valve open center? NO power beyond?
the tractor is not the problem IMHO, as long as both hoses are hooked up to an open center splitter valve there should be no dead heading.
is the splitter valve open center? NO power beyond?
the tractor is not the problem IMHO, as long as both hoses are hooked up to an open center splitter valve there should be no dead heading.
bindian
Super Member
Maybe it's just an orange thing?
hugs, Brandi
hugs, Brandi
OP
MotorSeven
Elite Member
I posted the issue here:
New PTO wood splitter......problems with dead heading the tractors pump....
Dead heading on my tractor happened a few times because one of my two rear remote levers has a detent to lock it in(such as when using a splitter). But when using my Top & Tilt and accidently hit the lever and it locks, this deadheads the IP which overheats. When this happened it(the IP) would make a whining noise, then all hydraulics stop working(no this is not good) within 5 min. Once the lever is taken out of detent, the fluid flows/cools back down and everything works again. I used the splitter for 5 min, then it quit, both hoses from the rear remote to the splitter were very hot.
Most remove the detent balls from the rear remote lever to keep this from happening, then just use a bungee cord to keep the lever engaged when using a attachment that requires constant flow.
New PTO wood splitter......problems with dead heading the tractors pump....
Dead heading on my tractor happened a few times because one of my two rear remote levers has a detent to lock it in(such as when using a splitter). But when using my Top & Tilt and accidently hit the lever and it locks, this deadheads the IP which overheats. When this happened it(the IP) would make a whining noise, then all hydraulics stop working(no this is not good) within 5 min. Once the lever is taken out of detent, the fluid flows/cools back down and everything works again. I used the splitter for 5 min, then it quit, both hoses from the rear remote to the splitter were very hot.
Most remove the detent balls from the rear remote lever to keep this from happening, then just use a bungee cord to keep the lever engaged when using a attachment that requires constant flow.
bindian
Super Member
Rick,
What is an IP? Also, have you removed and reconnected the QDs? I forgot if the other thread states you did. My BH started kicking a QD out enough to disconnect, but it looked like it was connected. I finally solved this disconnect problem by moving to the other remote. At some point, I need to R&R the QDs. When this happened, my backhoe controls got real slow until all pressure was lost.
hugs, Brandi