TC33D wont start
- Thread starter sherpa
- Start date
Sorry I never got around to updating! Honey Do took priority. Finally got around to working on this today. I did replace the ignition with the NAPAStill wouldn't start! Next I went to the fuse holder...I do not have my original Owners manual but I've got one from Messicks.It shows the first three fuses to be 7.5 (top to bottom) then no fuse in the next two positions then a 20 amp and that it? I know originally all or most of the fuse positions had a fuse. Looked on line and found this View attachment 768518
Replaced all fuses with the correct amperage and bam! she lit right upIt appears all is good for now. I would ask if someone could please list the actual shot of the the fuse box or at least a top to bottom listing of fuse order. Thanks all for the replies.
It appears all is good for now. I would ask if someone could please list the actual shot of the the fuse box or at least a top to bottom listing of fuse order. Thanks all for the replies.
My tractor don’t have a fuse box like this that I have found. Mine is a 2006 or 2008 . Only fuse I have found are where the relays are
thclimer
Platinum Member
Oh my, looks like you have some rodent friends trying to help you with your electrical conductivity.
Yup . Have to figure out how to get them under control
Might need help also: I read this thread and my problem sounds similar than the TC33, but not exactly
2008 TC30, 600 hrs.
Was running fine, then just quit while out in the field. Would not even turn over.
Called a buddy for a jump, but still starter would not even turn over. Tried to bypass the solenoid with a jumper and after a couple of tries, it started. But it would only run a few minutes and quit again. Finally had to get towed home.
Once home, jumped it again and the engine started right up no problem. Put the TC30 in my garage and let the engine run over an hour (tach-time) trying to duplicate the problem. Engine never quit.
Now the TC30 is in my garage and I can do testing. All fuses good. Battery tested borderline bad at only 8 volts (they said it could be charged). It was old, so I replaced it just to be safe. Installed new battery, and have good voltage at 12.5 volts. Cleaned up battery cable connectors. Engine started right up first time. Checked voltage while running and it showed 14.5 volts, so I know the battery is good, and I’m pretty sure the alternator is good since I’m getting 14.5v at the battery while running.
Let the engine run for a few minutes just to do more voltage checks to see why engine quit in the first place and build my confidence. Son-of-a-gun, it quit again for no apparent reason (luckily this time at home in my garage). Sometimes it will turn over, sometimes just clicking. When I turn the ignition on without the engine running, I hear clicking somewhere around the top/back of the engine. Could this be something wrong with the ignition switch?
Continuity was perfect when checking the + battery cable from post to top of starter. Also ground continuity was perfect from battery negative post to frame.
Also Jumper'd the seat safety switch under the seat. Checks good.
BTW, where is the relay for the starter start circuit (TC30)? How about the glow plug relay that I should also check or replace? And last but not least, where is the fuel solenoid?
So I think I have two problems: 1) Occasionally starts, sometimes nothing. 2) If started, runs 5-10 minutes, then quits.
Thanks to all for all the info provided so far in this thread.
2008 TC30, 600 hrs.
Was running fine, then just quit while out in the field. Would not even turn over.
Called a buddy for a jump, but still starter would not even turn over. Tried to bypass the solenoid with a jumper and after a couple of tries, it started. But it would only run a few minutes and quit again. Finally had to get towed home.
Once home, jumped it again and the engine started right up no problem. Put the TC30 in my garage and let the engine run over an hour (tach-time) trying to duplicate the problem. Engine never quit.
Now the TC30 is in my garage and I can do testing. All fuses good. Battery tested borderline bad at only 8 volts (they said it could be charged). It was old, so I replaced it just to be safe. Installed new battery, and have good voltage at 12.5 volts. Cleaned up battery cable connectors. Engine started right up first time. Checked voltage while running and it showed 14.5 volts, so I know the battery is good, and I’m pretty sure the alternator is good since I’m getting 14.5v at the battery while running.
Let the engine run for a few minutes just to do more voltage checks to see why engine quit in the first place and build my confidence. Son-of-a-gun, it quit again for no apparent reason (luckily this time at home in my garage). Sometimes it will turn over, sometimes just clicking. When I turn the ignition on without the engine running, I hear clicking somewhere around the top/back of the engine. Could this be something wrong with the ignition switch?
Continuity was perfect when checking the + battery cable from post to top of starter. Also ground continuity was perfect from battery negative post to frame.
Also Jumper'd the seat safety switch under the seat. Checks good.
BTW, where is the relay for the starter start circuit (TC30)? How about the glow plug relay that I should also check or replace? And last but not least, where is the fuel solenoid?
So I think I have two problems: 1) Occasionally starts, sometimes nothing. 2) If started, runs 5-10 minutes, then quits.
Thanks to all for all the info provided so far in this thread.
Last edited:
thclimer
Platinum Member
Post #127 of this tread gives a number of links for reference.
From an electrical perspective there are only 2 things that I can think of that will shut your tractor off.
1) The seat safety switch. You said yours is bypassed.
2) Power to the fuel solenoid is removed. Which I guess could be a faulty ignition switch or relay.
The relays are located behind a side panel, see PDF. Yours may be slightly different as this is not for a TC30
When you describe only getting clicks when turning the ignition switch it makes me think of a weak battery or the issue which so many of the TC series tractor have in the starting circuit which is eliminated by adding the dedicated starting relay modification.
From an electrical perspective there are only 2 things that I can think of that will shut your tractor off.
1) The seat safety switch. You said yours is bypassed.
2) Power to the fuel solenoid is removed. Which I guess could be a faulty ignition switch or relay.
The relays are located behind a side panel, see PDF. Yours may be slightly different as this is not for a TC30
When you describe only getting clicks when turning the ignition switch it makes me think of a weak battery or the issue which so many of the TC series tractor have in the starting circuit which is eliminated by adding the dedicated starting relay modification.
Thanks much for the document, will study it today and try to find the TC30 relays (I don't see them obvious with the hood open). Still don't know where the fuel solenoid is.
Yep, I ohms tested the seat safety switch and it was ok, but still by passed it anyway with a jumper.
I'll pursue:
1) The ignition switch.
2) The + battery cable to the starter (in case it is corroded on the inside and not allowing proper amperage while still supplying proper voltage).
3) The starter relay modification.
Thanks again! I'll report back when I know more...
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thclimer
Platinum Member
The fuel solenoid is #20 in the diagram, I don't have specific manual for the TC30 but the one I attached I would hope is close, its for the TC29, TC29D, TC33 and TC33D.
Before I did the starter relay mod I had the relay clicking with out turning over the engine but once the tractor started it never shut off without me turning the key off. Yours shutting off seems to me that the fuel solenoid is loosing power or you have a very intermittent fuel blockage.