TC30 Won't turn over - Do I need a new Safety Controller? Big Bucks :-(

[Mike C20]

Hi guys I'm glad I found this site, been having the same problem with my TC30. After checking every safety switch and checking every wire I could get to, along with blowing a fist full of fuses, I figured it was the safety controller. Like you guys said I couldn't find any info on how it works or how to test it and didn't want to spend that much with out knowing. I just wanted to ask if you've had anymore trouble since replacing the safety controller, thanks for any feedback

 

[woolyAcres]

@Mike C20- I couldn't find good instructions for testing the controller so I bought a new one, pretty confident that was the problem. $50 that didn't fix the problem. In my case it turned out to be the seat switch. I had pulled the cable to the seat switch off and shorted it, figuring that would rule out a bad seat switch. I think my wire wasn't making contact, or that the switch is perhaps open when you sit on the seat? In any case, removing the shorting wire and hooking up the seat switch and now things work again. I do still have the new controller in there so perhaps there were two problems. But it wasn't until I fixed the seat switch that things started working again.

These safety cut-offs can be a real pain but my work around - a hot wire to the fuel solenoid was a cure almost as bad as the problem- machine wouldn't turn off.

 

[jn9230]

I have the same exact problem on my 2008 TC30. I just arrived at the same conclusion after unplugging the safety controller module and testing it. That pin 10 (power, connects to positive wire running to 5A fuse) is shorted to the neighboring pin 11, which is ground. Guess I'm looking at replacing that expensive controller as well. Any recommendations on where I can purchase that controller at reasonable price? Also, I'm a bit nervous about plugging in an expensive new module without knowing what caused the first one to go bad. Not a part I want to be replacing multiple times

I too have the same problem on my 2008 TC30. Starting to think my short is in the safety controller as well, but I don't know how to test that before replacing the controller.

Also, does anyone know where I can purchase a new controller without paying extortion prices?

Thx.

 

[jn9230]

[snip]

Also, does anyone know where I can purchase a new controller without paying extortion prices?

Thx.

Just a bump, anyone know where to buy an after-market safety controller for a TC30?

 

[Fixitman7]

I have the exact same problem with my TC309 2006 model. Suspect controller. Bypassed seat switch, still same issue. Tested transmission safety switches, all good. I would really like to bypass this damn thing and keep things simple. I have the shop manual schematic so trying to figure out what the best approach is. Has anyone bypassed a safety controller with success?

 

[Fixitman7]

I was just quoted $675 for the safety controller at the dealer. Can't find one online yet. I refuse to pay that kind of money for a china made component that has $10 worth of components inside!

 

[LouNY]

A couple of questions for you guys having problems,
Does your fuel solenoid activate to stop or to allow your engine to run.
Has any one of you bypassed all the safety's by jumping the starter?
If so did it start and run?
Jumping from the main battery cable stud to the little flag terminal.
If it didn't start but did crank good have you disconnected the fuel solenoid?
Looking at the fuel solenoid it seems to only have one electrical connection, so just energized or not.
Energized may be engine stop, de-energized could be engine run.

I see that most of this thread is an old post.

 

[DwayneB]

Energized should be run else your battery would go flat.

 

[LouNY]

Not necessarily, some shut down systems include a "one shoot" system which activates for a few seconds when the key is turned off.

 

[toot77]

I have a 1995 model 1520 I've owned since new. A year ago I also bought a used T1520 (both are hydrostat) which I've learned has the safety controller (the 1520 does not have a safety controller). Previous owners of my T1520 had disconnected the beeper and jumpered the seat safety switch and the parking brake switch. I have also jumpered the H-M-L transmission neutral safety switch and all seems to work fine for now and the T1520 now operates the same as my older 1520, which is fine with me (push clutch pedal with both pto's disengaged to start).

Regarding the safety controller and its high replacement cost, after looking at the tractors and the wiring diagrams for each, it look to me as though its a fairly easy job to eliminate the safety controller by adding a glow plug light timer and doing a little re-wiring. The safety switches and relays all look to be the same parts as on my 1520. Note: that some safety features introduced since 1995 would be eliminated (i.e. seat switch & beeper) while others (i.e. neutral & parking brakes switches) could be eliminated or kept as desired. Currently, a glow plug light timer can be bought on Amazon for $20-$40.

This will be my plan should my T1520's safety controller ever require replacing. Wiring diagrams attached.