Taper pulley removal

[CajunRider]

I need to remove the pulley of my flail mower so I can replace the bearings. It is one of those taper fit pulley. Unfortunately I stripped the threads of 3 of the six holes where the jack studs push the "swellable" taper part out. So now I'm stuck. What should I do next? Drill and tap new thread? Cut the pulley out and replace the whole thing?

 

[ktm250rider]

Drill and tap
Bigger is better

 

[CajunRider]

I kinda figure that but I was hoping for some thing easy, or perhaps more satisfying, like "Heat it with your torch and beat the crap out of it."

 

[KYErik]

Can you get a puller on it? If so, is it heavy enough to put a lot of force on without damaging it? If the answer to both of these questions is "yes", then several auto parts stores have a tool loan program that makes tool rental "free" (you pay for the tool, use it and then take it back for a full refund). I know they have loaner pullers.

 

[RNeumann]

Brute pulling force is not always the answer. Apply the puller or 3 remaining pusher threaded holes so it is tight but prior to stripping threads! Start to tap/hammer the pulley and the shaft the pulley is attached to. I've found more than once this type of shock load will cause the press fit to pop. The second approach is to heat the pulley. This will cause it to expand and with some pulling force should come off. No need to ruin the pulley.....yet.

 

[CajunRider]

The machinist at my plant is saying the same thing. I'm told to turn the remain pusher stud until snug and keep on tapping the pulley and shaft.
Machinist: "Keep tapping. It'll go ting ting ting ting. After a few hours then all in a sudden it will break loose."
Me: "Are you sure? How long will it be 2 hrs, 4 hrs?"
Machinist: "Reasonably sure. No telling how long it takes."

I'm not sure I like tinging the flail mowers for hours on end without knowing whether it'll break for me.

 

[RNeumann]

I've never tapped for hours....maybe 5'-10' before I hit harder or move to another method (heat). That's why he's a machinist and I'm a hack! Haha

 

[CajunRider]

We have that in common Mr Neumann.

 

[flyerdan]

If you still have three holes available to put preload on it, do that and hit it a couple times with one of those inexpensive air hammers from HF. They do an amazing job at getting rusted stuck parts apart without damaging anything. You might have to snug up the bolts a couple times, but once you see it move you've got it whipped.

 

[Stimw]

Rattle it with a air chisel using a flat punch in the tool on a flat surface of the hub in the direction it needs to go. The vibration will get it apart.

 

[Winmac]

I don't know exactly what type of taper lock your dealing with but are you sure all six holes are for jacking?
Typically 3 of the holes be for setting the taper and the other 3 for breaking it loose

 

[RickB]

Can you get a puller on it? If so, is it heavy enough to put a lot of force on without damaging it? If the answer to both of these questions is "yes", then several auto parts stores have a tool loan program that makes tool rental "free" (you pay for the tool, use it and then take it back for a full refund). I know they have loaner pullers.

Putting a puller on a taper lock pulley won't work unless the pulling force is applied in the direction away from the hub flange.

 

[RickB]

I kinda figure that but I was hoping for some thing easy, or perhaps more satisfying, like "Heat it with your torch and beat the crap out of it."

If you are going to torch it, don't just heat it, cut it off altogether. Don't dick around.

 

[Halftrack]

As I recall, 3 of those 6 holes are used to secure the halves together and the other 3 are used to separate the halves. Are you sure you have stripped the separation holes because the other holes are smooth bore until you hit the threaded back half. On the separation holes, the front half are threaded and as you turn them in, they push against the back half. If you have indeed stripped the separation holes, you can thread bolts into the other (back Plate) holes, put a steel plate across the bolt heads and use a pulley puller to pull on the outside half while pushing against the other half. Good luck!!!

 

[tomplum]

If there is a center bolt and some air space that would hold oil, you maybe able to hydraulically remove it. That is done on some generator units.

 

[Tractor Seabee]

The discussion on the 6 holes is correct. I have separated a lot of those from little to pretty big multiple belt ones when I worked on industrial machinery. Usually the solid sheave part popped right off by bumping with a heavy dead blow mallet and then a wedge in the groove of the hub loosened that part. Many, many hubs also had one or more set screws into the shaft and/or the shaft key. Those units are cast iron so be careful heating them, uneven heating can cause them to crack and you cannot burn them off with an O/A cutting torch. Never had to saw one off, even the rusted ones. When installing them we always put anti-seize compound on the shaft and the taper surfaces, especially in wet or corrosive environments..

Ron

 

[cormier]

You need to apply even pressure on each bolt. To much pressure to one side will make it cock over to one side and fetch up. When the bolts are snug go 1/8 of a turn on each one till it pops off. If if doesn't go, tap the pulley with a hammer evenly all the way around while the jack bolts are tight. I'm a millwright i play with taper locks pretty much everyday i work from 1/2" shaft size to 6" shaft size. They are the best way to mount pulleys and sprockets i think. I never had to use heat or pullers in my 17 years as a mechanic to remove a taper lock.

 

[Ken Kegris]

I need to remove the pulley of my flail mower so I can replace the bearings. It is one of those taper fit pulley. Unfortunately I stripped the threads of 3 of the six holes where the jack studs push the "swellable" taper part out. So now I'm stuck. What should I do next? Drill and tap new thread? Cut the pulley out and replace the whole thing?

Pound the pulley ( section) part on now that will be loose and then use a small screwdriver in the crack of the center part to spread slightly and the center should come right off. If its a solid pulley and not the take apart kind use the air hammer on the back side of the pulley with steady pressure against the back side like a lawn mower flywheel. Above all dont grease when putting back on but shine it up and clean it but install dry, they are designed to get tight.
Kenny