Tandem Disc Harrows

[sunspot]

Good gosh! Even if I could afford it, my little tractor would sit and spin trying to pull 1800 pounds of disk in soft sandy loam.

It works out at 112# per disc. I don't think my 47hp would pull it.

 

[Barneyhunts]

With any disc, probably the most telltale "spec" is lbs per disc. Weight equals mass. Mass USUALLY equals strength. It ALWAYS equals soil penetration. When considering different models, compare lbs per blade.

A lightweight disc can have weight added, but consider that lightweight frame may or may not respond well to adding substancial amounts of weight. Some fold like a tent when put to the test.

Notched blades cut better, but will tend to bend (or break) easier than plain. More an issue in rocky soils.

I personally prefer a disc with scrapers. That's more important in plowed ground (or muddy conditions)

If the info is available, pay attention to gauge of disc blades. Some mighty thin ones on the market. They bend easier and wear out quicker.

You'll find 3-point disc's with either sealed bearings or cast "boxings". Both are acceptable. Sealed bearings are good if maintained. Boxings will remain servicable long after wear becomes evident. For a disc that'll see ocassional use, I personally would prefer the boxings. The deal with wear/dirt/water/rust/abuse in a much more forgiving manner.

The disc in your picture appears to be a decent model. From appearances, the gang frame (black box tubing) appears hollow. Some are solid bar stock. Besides the obvious strength issue, solid bar has more weight.

Farmwithjunk,
How would you maintain a sealed bearing?
Thanks

 

[Farmwithjunk]

Grease...often. All the "sealed bearings" I've seen on a disc were sealed (in an attempt) to keep dirt from getting IN past the seal, but allowing excess grease to push OUT past the seal. New grease should displace any dirt or moisture that gets past the seal. Considering that a disc operates in an environment of flying dirt, even GOOD seals don't last forever.

 

[Retired Iron Peddler]

Speaking of discs and grey iron bearings.. who remembers wood bearing halves?
soundguy

I have and use one regularly. It's an International Harvester Model 7A pull type 6.5' width. I pull it behind my Kubota L3830. I don't spare the grease on the boxings and grease them after about every four hours of use. My father bought it new in 1948 to pull behind a John Deere Model L tractor which struggled to pull it. In 1950 he traded the JD for a new Avery R tractor which is in my shop. It still cranks and runs.

Bill

 

[Harold_J]

Farmwithjunk,
How would you maintain a sealed bearing?
Thanks.

Grease...often. All the "sealed bearings" I've seen on a disc were sealed (in an attempt) to keep dirt from getting IN past the seal, but allowing excess grease to push OUT past the seal. New grease should displace any dirt or moisture that gets past the seal. Considering that a disc operates in an environment of flying dirt, even GOOD seals don't last forever.

Some of the confusion about "sealed" disk bearings is that at one time some of them (JD disks?) were not re-greaseable, ie.they had no zerk fittings. If the seal were perfect and able to remain so the bearing would last a long time before needing replacement. But as Farmswithjunk says, the disking environment wasn't the best for these seals so I think the non-regreaseable ones fell out of favor.

 

[Soundguy]

I've got about 50% of a 6' Ford disc laying in the scrap pile that has wooded bearings. They held up better than the frame. I dragged it here a few years ago when we cleaned out my uncles barn. It spent the better part of 10 years with a bunch of ammonium nitrate bags piled on top of it. Talk about rust.

Mines been reworked and worked on heavilly.. plenty by me ( reweld frame, and replace axles on one side and discs ) and befroe me i's obvious it was welded on and had bearing work.

If you ever make it out to your scrap pile could you snap a pic, and let me know the id number ont he tin tag, if yours is still legible.

I really should restore mine.. but last time i used it ( 4ys ago ), it was again ready for bearings on the other side, plus more welding. I had a bunch of old ford suitcase weights and concrete blocks chained on it for weight.. I've since scavenged the weights off for my 5000.. I have a feeling it won't get refurbed.. probably cost more to get parts than to grab a used one in better condition..


soundguy

 

[Soundguy]

It works out at 112# per disc. I don't think my 47hp would pull it.

Really... I fthe disc is only 1800#.. that means the 3pt on a class 2 tractor should have no problem lifting it.. if you can lift it.. then you can control depth of cut.. and with that.. you should be able to pull it pretty good... My 8n pulls a disc that weighed 800# or a tad more just fine.. and it's 20hp shy of your machine.. and alot less lift capacity of modern/larger tractors.. etc

I'm pretty sure my ex-NH1920 would lift 1800# on the 3pt.. and it was a 32hp machine..

soundguy

 

[Farmwithjunk]

Mines been reworked and worked on heavilly.. plenty by me ( reweld frame, and replace axles on one side and discs ) and befroe me i's obvious it was welded on and had bearing work.

If you ever make it out to your scrap pile could you snap a pic, and let me know the id number ont he tin tag, if yours is still legible.

I really should restore mine.. but last time i used it ( 4ys ago ), it was again ready for bearings on the other side, plus more welding. I had a bunch of old ford suitcase weights and concrete blocks chained on it for weight.. I've since scavenged the weights off for my 5000.. I have a feeling it won't get refurbed.. probably cost more to get parts than to grab a used one in better condition..


soundguy

I'm planning on swapping my scrap pile for a stack of dollar bills come springtime When I drag that old disc out, I'll check for an ID tag. Highly unlikely it's still legible though. We're talking SEVERE rust here.

Implements are worse than old tractors when it comes to investment required to make new again vs. real world value. Generally, it's easier and cheaper to find another that's intact than to buy all sorts of hard-to-find parts. Last year about this time, when I re-did the #66 Massey plow, I easily spent $1000 by the time I found the plow, got it here, bought all new wear parts, and put a "show car" paint job on it. I've got a great looking $400 plow now......

I just bought a Massey Ferguson #39 2-row corn planter off of EBAY. I paid more than I should have, but it's virtually "like new". I could have bought several "fix-er-uppers" for less money, and then spent a small fortune on parts. Going after it saturday!

 

[Harold_J]

Mines been reworked and worked on heavilly.. plenty by me ( reweld frame, and replace axles on one side and discs ) and befroe me i's obvious it was welded on and had bearing work.

If you ever make it out to your scrap pile could you snap a pic, and let me know the id number ont he tin tag, if yours is still legible.

I really should restore mine.. but last time i used it ( 4ys ago ), it was again ready for bearings on the other side, plus more welding. I had a bunch of old ford suitcase weights and concrete blocks chained on it for weight.. I've since scavenged the weights off for my 5000.. I have a feeling it won't get refurbed.. probably cost more to get parts than to grab a used one in better condition..
soundguy

I guess you used it a lot of hours/acres. Of course disc blades will wear out especially if not of best quality or thin gauge, but if you're bending up the frame and axles you're probably piling too much weight on it. That will wreck the whole disk eventually.

 

[Barneyhunts]

I just bought a Massey Ferguson #39 2-row corn planter off of EBAY. I paid more than I should have, but it's virtually "like new". I could have bought several "fix-er-uppers" for less money, and then spent a small fortune on parts. Going after it saturday![/QUOTE]

Farmwithjunk,
The sealed bearings on my disc don't have grease fittings, do you recommend using a needle type tool to grease under (in back of) the seals?

Good luck with the MF #39 planter. I bought one last fall and you told me where I could buy plates for it. You're a good resource! I'm looking forward to using my planter this spring.

 

[RobJ]

The sealed bearings on my disc don't have grease fittings, do you recommend using a needle type tool to grease under (in back of) the seals?

QUOTE]

Just replace them every couple years. They are cheap and easy to replace if all the hardware isn't rusted.

I replace the ones on my 86yo neighbor for him. Just need a 15" cresent and about 10-15 munites a gang. He has a 10' disk.

 

[Soundguy]

Ditto on refurbishing an implement. I had hundreds of dollars into a dearborn 101 plow..

that ford disc, hopefully has an aluminum ID plate.. if so.. save it if you scrap it.

And i agree... I occasionally run across decent discs for a couple hundred used.. and I wouldn't even be able to touch a refurb on mine for a couple hundred bucks...

soundguy

I'm planning on swapping my scrap pile for a stack of dollar bills come springtime When I drag that old disc out, I'll check for an ID tag. Highly unlikely it's still legible though. We're talking SEVERE rust here.

Implements are worse than old tractors when it comes to investment required to make new again vs. real world value. Generally, it's easier and cheaper to find another that's intact than to buy all sorts of hard-to-find parts. Last year about this time, when I re-did the #66 Massey plow, I easily spent $1000 by the time I found the plow, got it here, bought all new wear parts, and put a "show car" paint job on it. I've got a great looking $400 plow now......

I just bought a Massey Ferguson #39 2-row corn planter off of EBAY. I paid more than I should have, but it's virtually "like new". I could have bought several "fix-er-uppers" for less money, and then spent a small fortune on parts. Going after it saturday!

 

[Soundguy]

I guess you used it a lot of hours/acres. Of course disc blades will wear out especially if not of best quality or thin gauge, but if you're bending up the frame and axles you're probably piling too much weight on it. That will wreck the whole disk eventually.

The discs wore over time.. the frame had been damaged at some point and was welded up pretty poorly... looks like entire a-frame had come off. this was a heavy, dual ganged 6.5 foot disc with square channel frame, and adjustable gangs.. big sucker.. solid square axles... they didn't bent.. just wore down.. some places they wore where an old disc wore and spun on them.. other wear was evident when ?presumably? bearings went on one side and prev owner replaced them on that side only. Nut ont hat side had the threads scoured almost totally off along with retainer.. and he just tack welded it all together.. etc..

soundguy

 

[Farmwithjunk]

Farmwithjunk,
The sealed bearings on my disc don't have grease fittings, do you recommend using a needle type tool to grease under (in back of) the seals?

I'm not sure how I'd handle that. If they're sealed and seem to be working, I'd probably be hesitant to compromise the seal.

 

[Farmwithjunk]

Ditto on refurbishing an implement. I had hundreds of dollars into a dearborn 101 plow..

that ford disc, hopefully has an aluminum ID plate.. if so.. save it if you scrap it.

And i agree... I occasionally run across decent discs for a couple hundred used.. and I wouldn't even be able to touch a refurb on mine for a couple hundred bucks...

soundguy

Dearborn 101? Sure it isn't a 10-1? 101 was a "Ford" branded model built by Oliver/White or Pittsburg Plow, not Dearborn branded. Different plow altogether. (Different beams, different frog, different moldboard/shin/share, more throat clearance)

If there's an ID tag, I'll hang on to it for ya.

 

[sunspot]

Wow, this thread has lasted a long time. Not to shabby for a newbie.

I have narrowed down my choices to a new KK or Howse. The other brands I have called on were a bit too high priced for me. I know that you get what you pay for but sometimes I just don't have the money. I'm looking at a range of $900-$1200.

I know that sometimes I've read that Howse makes some KK equipment but I can see clearly that there are differences in the harrows.

The Howse is heavier and a bit cheaper in price from the KK.

Does anyone have a preference between the two?

The KK can be ordered locally and I'm not sure where I can buy the Howse. I'll call Howse later to find local dealers.

 

[Barneyhunts]

Wow, this thread has lasted a long time. Not to shabby for a newbie.

I have narrowed down my choices to a new KK or Howse. The other brands I have called on were a bit too high priced for me. I know that you get what you pay for but sometimes I just don't have the money. I'm looking at a range of $900-$1200.

I know that sometimes I've read that Howse makes some KK equipment but I can see clearly that there are differences in the harrows.

The Howse is heavier and a bit cheaper in price from the KK.

Does anyone have a preference between the two?

The KK can be ordered locally and I'm not sure where I can buy the Howse. I'll call Howse later to find local dealers.

I purchased my KK from Tractor Supply (rather than a Howse) because I could see it, and I haven't been disappointed. If I remember correctly their 6' heavy duty ran about $1000 (last year in Pa.) I like the angle adjustment on that disc in the picture of your first post. I may put one like that on mine.
Thanks Farmwithjunk & RobJ for your feedback on the sealed bearings.

 

[Eastinlet]

Wow, this thread has lasted a long time. Not to shabby for a newbie.

I have narrowed down my choices to a new KK or Howse. The other brands I have called on were a bit too high priced for me. I know that you get what you pay for but sometimes I just don't have the money. I'm looking at a range of $900-$1200.

I know that sometimes I've read that Howse makes some KK equipment but I can see clearly that there are differences in the harrows.

The Howse is heavier and a bit cheaper in price from the KK.

Does anyone have a preference between the two?

The KK can be ordered locally and I'm not sure where I can buy the Howse. I'll call Howse later to find local dealers.

Never used a Howse, and more weight is good. You can always add some more if you need it.

I ended up with a KK because the price and size were right. It's held up ok in stony ground. Lot of basketball sized rocks that i keep picking. The fact that I haven't bent or chipped disks says they used quality steel. It makes an awful racket, screeching with every stone it hits.

I have notched blades on the front, and it cuts well with the weight it's got. Sandy soil, mind you. It will go down 7-8" on the second pass in plow down rye in the spring.

 

[sunspot]

Barneyhunts
I also would like to see what I'm buying first hand but the nearest TS is over 100 miles from me.
I've thought about going back and buying the Atlas but then I thought about where would I buy parts if needed. I also like the adjustment screw that it has. It would give any angle that's needed unlike the KK that has preset angles.

Eastinlet
Weight is what is leaning towards the Howse. There are no rocks bigger than a large walnut on my land. Sandy on top and a clay/sand mix below. I've used a manual post hole digger and it's not a chore doing it. At least to 2 1/2'.

 

[Eastinlet]

Sunspot -

You going to go with a notched blade or finish disks? I've got notched front and finish rear, and it seems like a good all-purpose configuration for my needs. I had an old offset finish disk in the past, and it didn't have the weight or cut for heavy plowed sod.

I really could go for a crank-type adjustment, I'm often wishing I could get somewhere between the factory pre-sets. The KK only has 3 holes, and the straight setting has little utility for me. So 2 useful settings and not enough adjustment.