Takin it to the MAX

[Black Max]

I just wanted to wish everyone a safe and happy holiday :drink: My sneaky wife managed to hide something from me... Mahindra sent me this hat, pretty cool !! A nice touch that I sincerely appreciate, and a great Christmas gift, thank you Mahindra.:cool2:

 

[oldpilgrim]

We both belong to the same club. They sent me one last Fall. I haven't figured out what we all do in the club yet.

Merry, Happy to all.

 

[Black Max]

I finished the mounting of the linear actuator I am using for my diff lock. The actuator has micro switches internally used for limits, I had to relocate them due to the 2" of travel being way to much. They did not make it easy but I was able to solder them where I needed them, I now have 1/2" of travel instead of two. I made one bracket and was able to mount everything using existing holes/bolts on the tractor. I still have one fender to paint but I can cover this up now and move on. I have to wait for the switch and I ordered a winch controller to be able to run the actuator motor forward and reverse or diff lock on/off. It has quite a lot of power for it's size, I am happy with the results so far. Worst case, all the manual foot pedal stuff goes back on easily as nothing was modified to make the E-lock work and I have a $40 actuator to use for something else. This project really made me think as far as the mounting location, but it looks like it was always there now.

 

[Black Max]

Max's Christmas gift... Should add a bit of flash. White/Amber strobe lights and an LED light bar. The strobe lights come with their own strobe controllers, but that is five on/off switches and five flash mode buttons to operate... Good luck trying to get them all to flash the same. So... It's gonna be a lot of work, but I purchased a stand alone two zone strobe controller, and every light has to be re wired. What's cool is one of the options of this controller is it can strobe all the ambers only, and leave the whites on solid for work lights... Neat. There are over 20 other options I can select as well, what can I say... I like lights !! Light bar goes on the ROPS, as well as the two larger strobe lights, gonna have to make some more mounting brackets I guess...

 

[tomcat7359]

I love what you have been doing to your tractor,, your custom mods are fantastic! I am sure soon you will be out playing and enjoying the Max !!! Thanks for posting all the pics too...

 

[Black Max]

I love what you have been doing to your tractor,, your custom mods are fantastic! I am sure soon you will be out playing and enjoying the Max !!! Thanks for posting all the pics too...

Thanks, it's been a lot of fun for me. Pic's are good, but the video will be better !! Should take about 20 minutes to shoot everything when it's done, add a little back ground music... Lol. Seriously though, never done a video so I have to figure out that Youtube thing....

 

[s219]

Looking good!

 

[Carl_NH]

Impressive job on your Black Max!

Are you sure you aren't related to 4Shorts up in Nova Scotia? You may have seen the extensive mods on his BX25..

You Canadian guys have a knack for custom mods for these machines.

 

[arrow]

I finished the mounting of the linear actuator I am using for my diff lock. The actuator has micro switches internally used for limits, I had to relocate them due to the 2" of travel being way to much. They did not make it easy but I was able to solder them where I needed them, I now have 1/2" of travel instead of two. I made one bracket and was able to mount everything using existing holes/bolts on the tractor. I still have one fender to paint but I can cover this up now and move on. I have to wait for the switch and I ordered a winch controller to be able to run the actuator motor forward and reverse or diff lock on/off. It has quite a lot of power for it's size, I am happy with the results so far. Worst case, all the manual foot pedal stuff goes back on easily as nothing was modified to make the E-lock work and I have a $40 actuator to use for something else. This project really made me think as far as the mounting location, but it looks like it was always there now.


View attachment 403998

View attachment 403999

View attachment 404000View attachment 404001

That looks super Black. Just to be sure, you mustn't engage the lock with wheels turning (or at least not beyond "creep mode") and as soon as you do not need it, pressure for the lock should disengage. Not attempting to tell you something you perhaps already know but I once stripped the differential bolts off of my old tractor because I kept engaging with the wheels turning (sometimes wheels spinning real fast)

 

[Black Max]

Impressive job on your Black Max!

Are you sure you aren't related to 4Shorts up in Nova Scotia? You may have seen the extensive mods on his BX25..

You Canadian guys have a knack for custom mods for these machines.

I ran across Mr. Short's video's when I was shopping for my first tractor(Max), I personally admire his ingenuity and consider his achievements and knowledge a benefit to the tractoring world. Even I walk away from some of his video's a little smarter for having watched it, so let's not even go there. I will say if I had his resources I would be dangerous !! Lol. I didn't even buy a Kubota and I am sure us both being Canadian has nothing to with anything. I would love to hang out with Mr. Short for even an hour, but he's a couple thousand miles away. I work with basic tools and I could be defined as an average guy who just got and loves his first tractor, and has a vision in his head of what he wants his tractor to be, and will not stop until it's done. I believe that by challenging yourself to try things you've never done before, eventually you might get good at it or at least appear to be. I suffer for every mistake I make and bleed like everyone else....

 

[Black Max]

That looks super Black. Just to be sure, you mustn't engage the lock with wheels turning (or at least not beyond "creep mode") and as soon as you do not need it, pressure for the lock should disengage. Not attempting to tell you something you perhaps already know but I once stripped the differential bolts off of my old tractor because I kept engaging with the wheels turning (sometimes wheels spinning real fast)

Thank you for sharing your experience, I wasn't planning on engaging the diff lock when moving. It just seemed silly to have to keep my heel on that lever at all times to lock the diff, I entered unknown waters here but hopefully it is now a set it and forget it thing. I was shocked how much effort it took to push that pedal, pretty serious spring in the diff. The linear actuator actually flexed 1/4" steel, I couldn't do that with my foot so power wise I am ok I think. I chose to go with turf tires in the snow and honestly my first time out with the Plow I never even spun a wheel in 4wd so this mod might be like that stupid loud air horn... It's there if I need it. Maybe a neutral safety switch should be used to be able to actuate the diff lock... Hmmm...

 

[arrow]

That looks super Black. Just to be sure, you mustn't engage the lock with wheels turning (or at least not beyond "creep mode") and as soon as you do not need it, pressure for the lock should disengage. Not attempting to tell you something you perhaps already know but I once stripped the differential bolts off of my old tractor because I kept engaging with the wheels turning (sometimes wheels spinning real fast)

Thank you for sharing your experience, I wasn't planning on engaging the diff lock when moving. It just seemed silly to have to keep my heel on that lever at all times to lock the diff, I entered unknown waters here but hopefully it is now a set it and forget it thing. I was shocked how much effort it took to push that pedal, pretty serious spring in the diff. The linear actuator actually flexed 1/4" steel, I couldn't do that with my foot so power wise I am ok I think. I chose to go with turf tires in the snow and honestly my first time out with the Plow I never even spun a wheel in 4wd so this mod might be like that stupid loud air horn... It's there if I need it. Maybe a neutral safety switch should be used to be able to actuate the diff lock... Hmmm...

Turf tires may be the best tire for moderate snow. As far as the diff lock; my understanding is that one is not supposed to "keep one's foot" on the pedal. My terrain causes me to "imbalance" tractive force where my drive wheels are either slipping or making little ground contact. I then step on the lock and as soon as the other wheel is engaged, I let off. It seems to engage the opposite wheel long enough for me to get by the trouble spot without me having to continue stepping on it. I dunno maybe I'm using it wrong but I'm a bit more careful now that once I had to split my tractor for the fix. I wanna do that again like I want ebola.

 

[Black Max]

I still have one fender to paint and I will not be bolting them on until I mount and wire my lights on the ROPS so the complete pic's will have to wait. Here's a couple more teaser photo's and where I'm at today...

 

[AchingBack]

Turf tires may be the best tire for moderate snow. As far as the diff lock; my understanding is that one is not supposed to "keep one's foot" on the pedal. My terrain causes me to "imbalance" tractive force where my drive wheels are either slipping or making little ground contact. I then step on the lock and as soon as the other wheel is engaged, I let off. It seems to engage the opposite wheel long enough for me to get by the trouble spot without me having to continue stepping on it. I dunno maybe I'm using it wrong but I'm a bit more careful now that once I had to split my tractor for the fix. I wanna do that again like I want ebola.

I was getting ready to say the same thing about the diff. lock. Once the differential lock is engaged, you aren't supposed to keep pressure on the pedal. In addition, you should not try to engage the lock when front wheels are turning. All of the directions for use should be in the manual.

 

[Black Max]

Turf tires may be the best tire for moderate snow. As far as the diff lock; my understanding is that one is not supposed to "keep one's foot" on the pedal. My terrain causes me to "imbalance" tractive force where my drive wheels are either slipping or making little ground contact. I then step on the lock and as soon as the other wheel is engaged, I let off. It seems to engage the opposite wheel long enough for me to get by the trouble spot without me having to continue stepping on it. I dunno maybe I'm using it wrong but I'm a bit more careful now that once I had to split my tractor for the fix. I wanna do that again like I want ebola.

Thanks Arrow, I admit I get caught up on the " If I coulds" without focusing on the "If I shoulds"... Your experience and useage sounds right to me. I went into it with too much of a rock crawler mentality, and found the pedal hard to use. All I can do is try it out and report, and exactly the reason I made this mod 100% reversable. I just wanted to see if I could do it, and I'd mostly use it if needed in snow so I won't stress things out to much. These things can turn on a dime so to speak in the snow with the diff locked, I believe the split brakes may be even better for that but I can't work the brakes and HST at the same time... Another mod I've considered.

 

[oldpilgrim]

I would think that you would want to keep your foot on the pedal.

Pushing the pedal while moving is discouraged as the parts will turn while engaging with a probability of damage being caused.

Having it disengage by itself is pretty much doing the same thing.... moving parts banging against each other while rotating.

I haven't read what the manual says, but I'll stick to engaging/disengaging manually while stopped.

 

[Black Max]

I would think that you would want to keep your foot on the pedal.

Pushing the pedal while moving is discouraged as the parts will turn while engaging with a probability of damage being caused.

Having it disengage by itself is pretty much doing the same thing.... moving parts banging against each other while rotating.

I haven't read what the manual says, but I'll stick to engaging/disengaging manually while stopped.

I'm with you on reading the manual, it doesn't appear to be "self locking" the way it operates just by hitting the pedal once. I would think one would have to back up or something to release it like a auto locking hub. I only looked at the parts diagram and where I saw the spring I was having to compress with my foot, and thought there had to be a better way. To me if you wanted your diff locked, your foot better be on the pedal. The speed of the actuator I used is 1/2" per second, or one second to engage or disengage the diff lock, I find manuals are more interested in safety/liabilities or warranty concerns when it comes to useage. I can't see having my diff locked for a minute or more a real breakage issue, it's the when you engage it that really matters. I am open to being wrong on this one... Lol

 

[arrow]

I'm with you on reading the manual, it doesn't appear to be "self locking" the way it operates just by hitting the pedal once. I would think one would have to back up or something to release it like a auto locking hub. I only looked at the parts diagram and where I saw the spring I was having to compress with my foot, and thought there had to be a better way. To me if you wanted your diff locked, your foot better be on the pedal. The speed of the actuator I used is 1/2" per second, or one second to engage or disengage the diff lock, I find manuals are more interested in safety/liabilities or warranty concerns when it comes to useage. I can't see having my diff locked for a minute or more a real breakage issue, it's the when you engage it that really matters. I am open to being wrong on this one... Lol

Actually Black it appears you are not wrong at all. It is I that have been doing it incorrectly. The manual states (for my 3016 that is, and it seems to be the same process for hydro or gear) that as long as you engage the pedal with your foot down on it, it remains in diff lock. Foot off: it disengages. My method of engaging and then taking my foot off as soon as it engages must be working because i could be keeping my foot on the pedal longer than I actually think I am. I just use it to get me out of a trouble spot. The manual did state that all wheels must be stopped before engagement by either depressing the clutch on a gear, or putting the hydro in "neutral shift" mode.

 

[Black Max]

Actually Black it appears you are not wrong at all. It is I that have been doing it incorrectly. The manual states (for my 3016 that is, and it seems to be the same process for hydro or gear) that as long as you engage the pedal with your foot down on it, it remains in diff lock. Foot off: it disengages. My method of engaging and then taking my foot off as soon as it engages must be working because i could be keeping my foot on the pedal longer than I actually think I am. I just use it to get me out of a trouble spot. The manual did state that all wheels must be stopped before engagement by either depressing the clutch on a gear, or putting the hydro in "neutral shift" mode.

Thanks for taking the time Arrow, I appreciate it. There may be hope yet, I will report when I get to try it.

 

[Black Max]

Here is what I decided to do with my light bar mounts, the lights themselves are pretty weighty so I needed something strong, but with a little stealth built in. I un- boxed my Princess Auto(equivalent to Harbour Freight) shrinker stretcher I bought about a year ago, assembled it, and made the curved piece. Took me about 3 hours on that piece, never having done it before, and I feel stupid cause I kept running over to the tractor and used a ladder to constantly check the progress/fit. Almost aerobic and the next morning it dawned on me to just unbolt the top of the ROPS and take it to the bench.... dummy. I will post a bench shot of the lights after the paint dries.