T&T - Which T more useful?

[JoshJ]

Does either T work is the better question.... /forums/images/graemlins/blush.gif

Crowned a driveway with a stuck top link (mechanical, not hydraulic) and a mechanical side link. Sidelink was used much more often, so maybe I just got lucky and the stuck toplink was just the length I needed it to be. Came out good, but would have liked to have been able to tilt back and run it over with just the rear blade of the BB.

One of these days I'll remember to throw a level in with my effects so I can check the tilt of the blade a little better than by "it looks right"

 

[JoshJ]

Does either T work is the better question.... /forums/images/graemlins/blush.gif

Crowned a driveway with a stuck top link (mechanical, not hydraulic) and a mechanical side link. Sidelink was used much more often, so maybe I just got lucky and the stuck toplink was just the length I needed it to be. Came out good, but would have liked to have been able to tilt back and run it over with just the rear blade of the BB.

One of these days I'll remember to throw a level in with my effects so I can check the tilt of the blade a little better than by "it looks right"

 

[MadReferee]

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( Now I need some information. I have one set of hydraulics on the rear of my machine and would like to have T&T. Is there a economical way to do this. The worm gear for tilt could be it but hydraulics are my friend!! Second question is what tilt cylinder should I buy? And lastly do I need a check valve on it? )</font>

Since you only have one set of remotes you can use a diverter to make one into two. A flick of a 12V momentary switch will select which part (the top or the tilt) will get fluid.

As to the second question, most cylnders will leak down under load and both the top and tilt link cylinders are always under load. Cylinders with check valves are better than those without check valves. However finding check valves that will do the job is extermely difficult, if not impossible. Unless, that is, if you purchase cylinders from CCM who are the only USA distributors that I know of. They have the correct valves.

 

[MadReferee]

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( Now I need some information. I have one set of hydraulics on the rear of my machine and would like to have T&T. Is there a economical way to do this. The worm gear for tilt could be it but hydraulics are my friend!! Second question is what tilt cylinder should I buy? And lastly do I need a check valve on it? )</font>

Since you only have one set of remotes you can use a diverter to make one into two. A flick of a 12V momentary switch will select which part (the top or the tilt) will get fluid.

As to the second question, most cylnders will leak down under load and both the top and tilt link cylinders are always under load. Cylinders with check valves are better than those without check valves. However finding check valves that will do the job is extermely difficult, if not impossible. Unless, that is, if you purchase cylinders from CCM who are the only USA distributors that I know of. They have the correct valves.

 

[_RaT_]

Paul, anytime your on a slope sideways you need to tilt the PHD, otherwise your drilling at an angle.

 

[_RaT_]

Paul, anytime your on a slope sideways you need to tilt the PHD, otherwise your drilling at an angle.

 

[Dex]

As you folks have read I have been doing some research on T&T. I need to know if anyone out there has a John Deere factory setup for T&T. I have contacted JD and they are no help. I want to see the items for the stock set up since it is supposed to divert the hydraulics to use the loader joystick. I would like to see where the electric switch is located, the valve body location, he diverter valve location, and the size of the cylinders that they are using. If someone has this setup please post some pictures or send them to my mailbox. TKS

 

[Dex]

As you folks have read I have been doing some research on T&T. I need to know if anyone out there has a John Deere factory setup for T&T. I have contacted JD and they are no help. I want to see the items for the stock set up since it is supposed to divert the hydraulics to use the loader joystick. I would like to see where the electric switch is located, the valve body location, he diverter valve location, and the size of the cylinders that they are using. If someone has this setup please post some pictures or send them to my mailbox. TKS

 

[daTeacha]

When I bought my tractor, I had the dealer install an Add-a-Grapple. He plumbed for the grapple by putting a T fitting in each of the lines for the rear hydraulics. So long as I don't want to use the grapple at the same time as the rear auxilliary hydraulics, the one valve that came with the rear outlets works just fine. I have quick connects that I can take apart at the loader mounting point and another set at the grapple, so I have 3 points where I can connect to the hydraulics controlled by the rear valve, front, middle, and back of the tractor.

 

[daTeacha]

When I bought my tractor, I had the dealer install an Add-a-Grapple. He plumbed for the grapple by putting a T fitting in each of the lines for the rear hydraulics. So long as I don't want to use the grapple at the same time as the rear auxilliary hydraulics, the one valve that came with the rear outlets works just fine. I have quick connects that I can take apart at the loader mounting point and another set at the grapple, so I have 3 points where I can connect to the hydraulics controlled by the rear valve, front, middle, and back of the tractor.

 

[MadReferee]

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( As you folks have read I have been doing some research on T&T. I need to know if anyone out there has a John Deere factory setup for T&T. I have contacted JD and they are no help. I want to see the items for the stock set up since it is supposed to divert the hydraulics to use the loader joystick. I would like to see where the electric switch is located, the valve body location, he diverter valve location, and the size of the cylinders that they are using. If someone has this setup please post some pictures or send them to my mailbox. TKS )</font>

Why don't you ask in the JD Owning/Operating forum. I know there are people there who have done what you want to do on their JD's.

 

[MadReferee]

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( As you folks have read I have been doing some research on T&T. I need to know if anyone out there has a John Deere factory setup for T&T. I have contacted JD and they are no help. I want to see the items for the stock set up since it is supposed to divert the hydraulics to use the loader joystick. I would like to see where the electric switch is located, the valve body location, he diverter valve location, and the size of the cylinders that they are using. If someone has this setup please post some pictures or send them to my mailbox. TKS )</font>

Why don't you ask in the JD Owning/Operating forum. I know there are people there who have done what you want to do on their JD's.

 

[DiskDoctr]

Henro,

Howdy! It's been a while.

I DEFINITELY wouldn't own another tractor without a hydraulic top link.

For the Box Blade, it is a must! Retract link= dig teeth and blade. Extend link= skim or spread surface (gives almost a "fence drag" result- really nice!)

Top link is also helpful changing implements using the quick hitch. Extend link to get top hook under implement, retract link and lift and viola!

Good also for load/unload trailer when sometimes I need just a little more lift on the longer implements to clear the ground.

I also use it for the finish mower. When mowing over questionable ground (maybe rocks, dirt, etc), I keep the top link loose enough to let the mower ride level, but tight enough to keep slack out of the link. This give immediate response to 3ph lift, saving the blades.

That being said, I put in a large local parking lot this week and sure could have used the tilt. They called me in a pinch because they weren't equipped to handle that much modified gravel.

By the time I got there, there were little piles spread out everywhere. Took some time, and as I used the FEL to push the tops off the piles and drove over them to use the BB, I found more than once that if I had a TILT, I could have leveled more, faster.

Without the tilt, I had to drag the pile sideways towards the low spots, then drag lengthwise to level. With a tilt, I could have stayed lengthwise and tilted the BB, much faster results.

STRONGLY considering Tilt, but have to add diverter and...well, guess could use same hydraulic lever, so maybe do it soon.

This was long, but maybe gives some ideas as well as opinion.

As always, you ask the good questions...

-JC

 

[DiskDoctr]

Henro,

Howdy! It's been a while.

I DEFINITELY wouldn't own another tractor without a hydraulic top link.

For the Box Blade, it is a must! Retract link= dig teeth and blade. Extend link= skim or spread surface (gives almost a "fence drag" result- really nice!)

Top link is also helpful changing implements using the quick hitch. Extend link to get top hook under implement, retract link and lift and viola!

Good also for load/unload trailer when sometimes I need just a little more lift on the longer implements to clear the ground.

I also use it for the finish mower. When mowing over questionable ground (maybe rocks, dirt, etc), I keep the top link loose enough to let the mower ride level, but tight enough to keep slack out of the link. This give immediate response to 3ph lift, saving the blades.

That being said, I put in a large local parking lot this week and sure could have used the tilt. They called me in a pinch because they weren't equipped to handle that much modified gravel.

By the time I got there, there were little piles spread out everywhere. Took some time, and as I used the FEL to push the tops off the piles and drove over them to use the BB, I found more than once that if I had a TILT, I could have leveled more, faster.

Without the tilt, I had to drag the pile sideways towards the low spots, then drag lengthwise to level. With a tilt, I could have stayed lengthwise and tilted the BB, much faster results.

STRONGLY considering Tilt, but have to add diverter and...well, guess could use same hydraulic lever, so maybe do it soon.

This was long, but maybe gives some ideas as well as opinion.

As always, you ask the good questions...

-JC

 

[_RaT_]

<font color="blue"> STRONGLY considering Tilt, but have to add diverter and...well, guess could use same hydraulic lever, so maybe do it soon. </font>

Thats why I just started off with a 3 spool setup. One for the top link, one for the tilt and the 3rd can run my hydraulic rippers or all 3 hydraulic functions on my Harley rake with the simple flip of a electric switch.

 

[_RaT_]

<font color="blue"> STRONGLY considering Tilt, but have to add diverter and...well, guess could use same hydraulic lever, so maybe do it soon. </font>

Thats why I just started off with a 3 spool setup. One for the top link, one for the tilt and the 3rd can run my hydraulic rippers or all 3 hydraulic functions on my Harley rake with the simple flip of a electric switch.